Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Thanks Hanno! Thats excellent news. My pipes are the same, except the short piece for right side header doesn't have the bend that yours has half way along the part that connects to the left side. It does fit my engine though, and does not prevent the drain plug from being removed.

I just won an auction for this Ford battery box. No internals, just the box, so it shouldn't cost a kidney to ship from USA to here. I'm hoping to get a mold taken from it, and have fibreglass reproductions made for sale.

Didn't want to say too much about this until I had actually been successful with the purchase.

Also started looking closely at the Volvo mufflers. Several different mufflers show up as 240 series, but I know the ones you were talking abouy, and SHOULD be able to order one locally.

[Private_collector]

As you see, the battery top that comes with the case is just a flat piece of perspex. I will remedy that myself.

These NOS caps will help me.

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Yeeeeeees!
Attachment 60595 Attachment 60596
The test fitting of one front spring set has shown the new clamps clear everything very nicely. Under very heavy loading or lots of side to side torsion, that may be a different story, but it would have to be fairly extreme flexion to be a problem.

Glad they fit Tony. Heaps of clearance all round.
Strange that the Parts Catalogue and the MBF1 show different pictures. The parts book lists the different clips for all models F15A and up.
Terry

[Private_collector]

Maybe it's one of those 'old VS new' style things.
Anyhow, as long as it works!

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Strange that the Parts Catalogue and the MBF1 show different pictures.

I believe the diagram in the workshop manual is incorrect. Early production springs are as per Parts List diagram. Late production springs have one additional leaf, and the rear clips are the same type as the front but are inverted and have a heavy steel bush over the bolt (see pic below).

It would appear there was some concern about the rear clips fouling the chassis, although as Tony says it would require extreme spring flexion for this to occur. However if it did occur it would be very unhealthy for the spring, and could potentially snap the top leaf at that point.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

My pipes are the same, except the short piece for right side header doesn't have the bend that yours has half way along the part that connects to the left side. It does fit my engine though, and does not prevent the drain plug from being removed.

Here's a pic of the original set up Tony. It's handy having a few reference vehicles in the back yard! I believe the bend in the RH engine pipe is to prevent it fouling the diff housing, just like the cutaway in the front crossmember. However it sounds like yours passes even further back near the drain plug...?

[Private_collector]

Now that I look at your photo, my pipes look to be very much similar, if not identical.

Probably best if I do a test fit onto the engine. The exhaust manifolds are in place already, and provided the trolley doesn't get in the way, I should have no problem installing them temporarily. Perhaps it was the angle I was looking at my short pipe that made me feel the bends were not as pronounced. I don't believe the cross over is any further to the rear, than yours is, but this isn't based on any facts.....yet!

Thanks again for your responses, chaps. A picture certainly does paint a thousand words.

[Tony Wheeler]

Is there a source for these engine pipes in Australia? Or do we have to get them made up from a pattern?

[Private_collector]

Tony, I dont know if there is a source of exhaust pipes here in Australia, but I may be finding out soon, unless I can salvage mine! I tried for fitting this afternoon, and found one, possibly two problems.

The long pipe fits well, but the rear most straight section 'kicks' upward instead of remaining horizontal. This doesn't look right to me !?!

Secondly, when attaching the shorter piece I discovered it sits too far out from the exhaust manifold, and cannot be bolted. The gap is perhaps 4 inches. All may not be lost. In a case of serendipity, there could be sufficient length of the area that joins the two bits, to allow me to effect a rescue.

Guess I was rather optomistic to paint the pipes, eh! Typical.

P.S: Apologies for the average photos. They were taken by my tablet thingy, and I was in the process of trying to take better ones when I was called away quickly, to modify a 5ft brown snake! I say modify because I made a slight alteration to its length, making two considerably shorter black snakes from the original single one. Wretched things.

[Private_collector]

Can anyone confirm the OD of the bushing in the rear spring bracket of the front spring?

I want to replace mine. They are worn enough to require replacement, and I might as well do that soonas i'm able.

For some reason I had a figure of 1" in my mind. I can't measure accurately until removing an original bush. I dont want to do that right now, so I can install the front springs and then the front axle & steering. Replacement shouldn't be difficult even after springs are in place, with use of the right height jack or the gantry outside the workshop.

Thanks in advance,

Tony B.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

The long pipe fits well, but the rear most straight section 'kicks' upward instead of remaining horizontal. This doesn't look right to me !?!

Also Tony it appears to bend inwards, whereas the original pipe runs parallel to the chassis rail all the way back to the muffler. You'll probably have to bend it straight to get the desired set up. Simple job for an exhaust shop next time you're in town.

Speaking of exhaust shops, I bought a new muffler today for my F15A, cost $65. They're readily available in 6" diameter, 18" or 16" length, with offset inlet and outlet to fit 2" pipe. You'd need a reducer to fit original 1 3/4" tailpipe, however in this case I'm not fussed about originality.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Could you give us a couple of photos of your custom engine stand, and some overall measurements? Good simple engine stands that actually can be rolled around make working in the shop so much easier.

I've done one for the Chevy 216 engine which is a combination storage and test stand. Yours intrigues me because it has even a smaller foot print. Are you happy with how it roles around and how stable is it the tricycle wheel lay out?

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Hi Phil, glad to.

The trolley is very stable, despite only 3 wheels. The tyres are solid, so they are not subject to any 'give' that pneumatic tyres may have when being moved around. Where possible, I tried to build in a way where the weight of the engine would actually reduce the potential for damaging stress to the welding joins. You can see that on the end with single wheel, which is the bell housing end of the trolley. The part that attaches to the engine there, is a bracket and a rectangular box that slides into the vertical box on the trolley. There is no need for any form of bolting between the engine bracket and the trolley vertical box piece. It just sits there, one inside of the other.

I have chosen to lower the main frame, where it joins the wheels. It was done that way to lower centre of gravity, for better stability. What doesnt appear in these photos, is that I had added a reinforcement plate to the wheel brackets, at the duel wheel end. I had wanted to have additional support to overcome any problems with my less than perfect welding. So far, so good! I also have added another vertical steel tube piece to provide more strength to the cross piece that the water pumps are bolted to. Those bolts, one for each pump, are the only mechanical fastening between trolley and engine. If you look closely at my first photo of the exhaust trial fitting, you can just see one of those added tubes beneath the left water pump.

If I was to do it over again, I would retain basic shape, but make a couple of tweeks to the design. I would make the single wheel a castor wheel. Current one is fixed. It does assist in knowing exactly where it is heading when you push it, but I often have to push & pull to make a direction change easier. This is needed in my limited space. I wouldn't change the wheels I currently have. They are brilliant for travelling over concrete expansion joins, power leads,and the gravel outside the workshop. One person can move it easily. I would rethink the complex front part that the water pumps sit on. It was a lot of work, and it doesnt need to have been. I started with one way in mind, then revised the design mid stream, because I thought of a potential weakness in original design.

I would retain the single piece of tube connecting both ends. It has allowed me to have easy access from below, while retaining a fair strength. With the trike setup, uneven ground isnt a problem, and you dont get the 'one wheel off the ground' scenario over uneven terrain.

My engine trolley is just that, a trolley ONLY. It is not intended to replace a rebuilding stand. It wouldnt work in that capacity. That said, I will be installing the cam, and setting the valvetrain while engine is still on the trolley. Lower engine would be impossible to do, which is not a problem for me. I will be giving that job to a professional.

Hope this helps. These are the best photos I have, sorry!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Thanks for the details, for years I stored extra engines on improvised blocking and they are such a pain to work around. Once I built my first engine test stand I discovered it was so much easier to move around engines that I've built 5 more to store engines on as well as use as test stands. They all have engines on them so the question is build more or build something smaller and simpler purely for storage.

Your approach seems to fit that bill, agree with you about solid wheels but one of the things I've noticed is that any of the "solid" plastic wheels will take a set after long storage of a heavy engine making it hard to roll them around later. One of my Flat head engine transmission groups exceed 900LBS. Do you think using a single swivel caster at the rear and two fix at the front would work. If you were going to attach a pull/push handle do you think it would work. How much do you think the engine weighs?

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil, I dont think having the two wheel end fixed would suit my needs. When I need to move the whole thing around outside on uneven ground, I dont want the most animated end of the trolley being the one wheel end. At one point, I considered having all castor wheels. Very pleased I reonsidered that idea. Removing the issue of stability on the gravel, having castor on single wheel SHOULD give better manouverability on concrete floor. Especially so in restricted space. I would have gone that way, if I didnt want to go outside with it.

My solid tyres dont feel to have flat spots. Im sure I would feel something if they had suffered thus. The engine I had basically discarded in preference for the recently acquired French block, had been sitting on that trolley for around 12 months or thereabouts. I would imagine the extent of any flat spot developing is proportionate to the weight rating of the individual wheel/tyre sets being used. Mine are rated at 300kg each. I chose tyres with a tread pattern, so they wouldnt slip around, but with the weight of an engine above them, I guess that would have been unlikely to happen anyway. Also the tyre compound is VERY dense. Sorry I cant recall whether they are considered rubber, plastic, or something else.

No idea whatsoever, with regards to engine weight, though it is something I have tried to find out! No one seems to want to give an approximation, not even the local engine rebuilding workshop. When I was still considering assembling the engine myself, I intended to buy a rebuild stand that would take 900kg (2000lbs). I figured that should cover any engine I would ever work with (unless I wanted to rebuild a Pratt & Whittney radial engine).

I cant get used to seeing engines hanging off stands, with just 4 bolts going into the bell housing. It just looks so WRONG, but everyone I have spoken to, that has done engines this way, assure me it is actually safe. Still gives me the creeps though.

[Private_collector]

After measuring a bush from a spare bracket for the front spring, I have purchased a new pair of 3/4" ID x 1" OD x 2" L bronze Oilite bushes. Total cost, including shipping from USA (of course, everything is) comes to $29.95USD.

They still have more, if anyone needs them. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181173697...84.m1497.l2649

On a different topic, this is my new car.

It was owned by my Brother, and has been given to me.
Moderately smaller than I am used to, but very economical, and quite nice to drive.
My challenge now is to keep it in the same condition my Brother maintained it in.

[Lionelgee]

No idea whatsoever, with regards to engine weight, though it is something I have tried to find out! No one seems to want to give an approximation, not even the local engine rebuilding workshop. When I was still considering assembling the engine myself, I intended to buy a rebuild stand that would take 900kg (2000lbs). I figured that should cover any engine I would ever work with (unless I wanted to rebuild a Pratt & Whittney radial engine).


G'day Tony,

No not a research question challenge - I just could not resist...

According to http://www.35pickup.com/mulligan/weight.txt the weight of a Ford V8 Flathead is

Engine Weight/Size FYI

***********************
version 97.01.04
Copyright Dave Williams
dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
weight

Engine pounds ref. comments
Ford flathead V8 525 (124) 1932 model, integral b'hsg, iron heads
Ford flathead V8 569 (1) ('53 239 CID)

Reference (124) is Petersen's Complete Book of Ford, 3rd Edition, 1973
While Reference (1) Handbook of Engine Swapping, John Thawley, 1960

Accessed 29th of September 2013

So Tony - there you go now you know about the engine weight

P.S. Being naturally dubious about internet sources I did some more digging - I have already corrected the spelling of the Author's name for Reference (124) and found that there could be an error in reference (1) The Handbook of Engine Swapping 1960 could either be one of two publications

Handbook of Engine Swapping Pamphlet – January 1, 1960
by Floyd Clymer (Author)
Pamphlet: 103 pages
Publisher: Clymer Publications; 1st edition (1960)

Or going by the name cited as Reference (1) "John Thawley" it could be the right author and the wrong publication name and the incorrect year of publishing...

Practical Engine Swapping [Paperback]
John Thawley (Editor)
Publisher: Steve Smith Autosports; Second Edition edition (June 1976)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0936834110
ISBN-13: 978-0936834115

I hope this clears things up - teehee! I have contacted the author who wrote the list for a clarification of what reference (124) actually is. I will let you know if I hear back from them.


Kind Regards
Lionel

[Private_collector]

Thanks Lionel! That's a fair bit less than I thought it would be. Even if that were kgs, I wouldn't have doubted it. That probably explains why my home made engine trolley hasn't collapsed yet! Also, I have been able to lift one end of the engine trolley, and should have realised that it couldn't be too heavy if I could do that. Well, when I say 'lift' I mean take enough weight off the tyre to drag it sideways.

I painted the front spring to axle attaching hardware this morning. Then started putting the front springs back on. The rear shackle will have to come off again when the new bushes arrive. The above things brought me to about 1300hrs, so I started looking for something else to do, so I decided to try reinstalling the front axle to the chassis.

Had a few things to move around before I had any chance of doing the reassembly inside the workshop.

Engine cranes, eh! Is there anything they cannot do? Just pull the chassis to one side and wheel the front axle around to where the assembly will be done.

Then a matter of aligning the two parts in 3 dimensions. How hard could that be!?!? One thing I REALLY like about my paint choice, it dries extremely fast, especially in a Queensland heatwave.

A few turns of the spanner/s, and the mandatory scarred knuckles later, and I now have a rolling chassis!!!! Even put the steering box on, but it was after I had taken these photos. Due to a persistent oil leak in the box, I removed the oil and replaced it with a semi-grease type lube that is especially for steering boxes that just won't seal completely.

Nice straight lines too. Mind you, I had so many of the cross members off that it really couldn't be out now.

[Private_collector]

Does anybody know of a source for the correct rubber grease seals that go on both ends of the pitman arm?

I would also like to hear from anyone who has one of these front shock absorber to axle rods for sale. I dont care if they are used, so long as good useable condition.

And finally, I have not been able to locate a replacement Ford steering wheel nut. My original one had to be split in two to get it off, and I dont think I can glue it back together again! Any leads on where to buy one of these would be gratefully accepted. For that matter, if you are able to tell me nut size and TPI, I can start the local bolt looking for one.

Thanks very much,

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Does anybody know of a source for the correct rubber grease seals that go on both ends of the pitman arm?
Attachment 60724
I would also like to hear from anyone who has one of these front shock absorber to axle rods for sale. I dont care if they are used, so long as good useable condition.
Attachment 60725
And finally, I have not been able to locate a replacement Ford steering wheel nut. My original one had to be split in two to get it off, and I dont think I can glue it back together again! Any leads on where to buy one of these would be gratefully accepted. For that matter, if you are able to tell me nut size and TPI, I can start the local bolt looking for one.

Thanks very much,

Hi Tony,

Have a couple of those pitman arm rubbers. They are NOS which makes them pretty old rubber but they seem usable. Have you got the steel caps they sit in?
Will check out junk box. May have a rough steering wheel nut for you to get you out of trouble until a better one comes along.
Will stick these items in a jiffy bag to you.
P.S. Haven't restarted the Blitz project yet. The lathe project has dominated what free time I've had but it's almost done so soon back into the truck.

Cheers,

Jacques

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day

Further to previous reply here is a photo of the seals for those who may also be looking for them. 2" long x 1-1/4" wide with 3/4" hole.

Embossed on them is what appears to be Part No. 81T-3332 which is listed as "Retainer drag link grease. (rubber)" in the Spare Parts list.

Would also be curious to know if they are common to any other vehicle. They are substantially bigger than Ford passenger car pittman arm seals of the era.

Cheers,

Jacques

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Here's a pic of the original set up Tony. It's handy having a few reference vehicles in the back yard! I believe the bend in the RH engine pipe is to prevent it fouling the diff housing, just like the cutaway in the front crossmember. However it sounds like yours passes even further back near the drain plug...?

Hi Tony W and Tony B,

Just catching up on reading the MLU posts.

I have attached photos of what I believe is a section the the original exhaust pipes at the engine. This was attached to my vehicle but had been cut off short and a new section added to the rear to the muffler by the previous owner. Interestingly the new section was 2" pipe swaged to fit over the remnant of the exhaust pipe and it too kicked downwards as it does in Hannos's photo and the photo I posted a while back of an original one at Bandiana Army Museum.

It seems to concur with Tony Wheeler's photo and Hanno's photo of the entire pipe.

The crossover clamp is the same as used on Jeep exhausts so is readily obtainable.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers,

Jacques

[Private_collector]

Thanks for that, Jacques!

I do still have the metal caps, bu they are worn from friction against steel.
I'm not aware of anywhere the rubber seals are to be found, and I know from experience that the ones Macs stock are far too small. They have evaded me this far, on any of the auction sites too.

It's my turn again to have major computer problems with the home laptop, so the photos I have been trying to post, showing the battery box I have now received, have not yet been uploadable. My IP is working on this problem, but not yet able to cure it.

When I got the battery box, I had a very pleasent surprise. What I had originally thought was just a piece of black perspex used to hide the 'modern' battery inside the original, was far more useful. When I turned it over (the side NOT shown on the ebay listing), I found the previous owner had attached the two original lead cell connectors, as well as three battery cell caps!!! The caps aren't right, but the lead strips are exactly what I was wanting. I plan to try and make a plaster mold from the best one, so I can make more at a later date.

Thanks again, Jacques. I'll write to you privately, this evening.

[Private_collector]

I do enjoy the occasional surprise, but only one in my favor.
My battery case arrived today, and it's just brilliant.
I couldn't resist the by now fully expected 'trial fit'.
Fills the space beautifully.

The surprise came when I turned over the plastic top panel, which was shown on the ebay auction, looking like this....

..........and it looked like this on the other side. Cool!
I had been looking for a pair of the lead connectors, and now they found ME.

I originally thought that plastic piece would be something I would throw away, because it's not how the top should look. When I turned it over and saw the cell connecting lead bars, terminal felts, and cell caps WERE ALL THERE, I nearly fell down dead. I won't actually be using the cell caps. Have ordered a set with Ford script on them, but I will most certainly re-use the lead connectors, but not before I make a couple of plaster moulds from them though. Someone put a lot of effort into trying to fake a top cover for this battery. Unfortunately...........it's not convincing.

[Shane]

Hi Tony. This came off my Ford cab 12
dont know if it is of any use to you.

[Private_collector]

Cheers for the pics, Shane.

I have downloaded them (finally) and will see how mine compares.

From first impressions, yours looks to be smaller pipe. Maybe it's just the photos, or maybe it's just my vision.

I'm gonna drop into an exhaust shop tomorrow when in town, to see what they may have in stock that is reasonably close in sizing, to the original.


All going well, I will start work on the transfer case some time over the weekend. I'm really hoping it's a straight forward job of cleaning the case and replacing the seals, gaskets & oil. Not that I actually believe it will go that way!

[Keith Webb]

Shane's exhaust system looks correct. Don't let the muffler place be lazy and do what is easiest, ie running twin pipes!

[Private_collector]

I have been trying to upload these photos since yesterday. Internet playing up again.

Did some work Sunday on the replica top for the newly acquired Ford battery case. I cant attach any parts to it yet. The cell caps you see here are not the ones I will be using. The Ford caps have not arrived yet, so I worked with the ones that came with the empty battery case. Each cap will be attached with a small bolt, and be removed if needed in the future. The lead cell connector strips cleaned up fairly well, and have had several coats of clear poly paint. They will ultimately be glued in place. Before that can happen, the top will be permanently joined to the case, and black sealer will be run around the edges and between the individual cells, like they would have been originally. I dont have the lead cable terminals yet, but they have been ordered. I do have a pair here now, somewhere, but as usual cannot find them when I want them. I will surely stumble over them on the day I receive the ones I have just ordered.



Started on the transfer case yesterday.

Pulled the shifter tower and selectors off. They cleaned up really well, but lack the gear selector lever. that was lost before I bought the vehicle. Took the front axle drive part off and it was stuck fast. Should have taken the lack of oil inside as a very bad omen! Did manage to free it up easily, and although I can't get a good look at the bearings, it turns freely and without grinding or free play in any direction.

Got a nasty surprise when I removed the oil drain plug. Nothing came out, unless you include the thick jammy sludge and red grit that clung to the inside of the box. OH DEAR. I had naively hoped (but not really expected) that I wouldn't have to pull the two main body halves apart, and just replace the oil. Talk about an unrealistic expectation! The shafts do turn OK, but I expect (now) that there will be internal parts that need replacing, beyond the usual bearings, seals & gaskets of course. Still, one step at a time, eh?

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

Shane's exhaust system looks correct. Don't let the muffler place be lazy and do what is easiest, ie running twin pipes!

But by geez it'll sound marvellous!!

[Nathan Clark]

Tony i may have a shift lever for your tranfercase here. I picked up a half cut blitz couple of weeks ago that all running gear was intact. Ill have a look tomorrow and get back to you. We only wanted the engine and the carrier radiator it had in it so every thing else is not much use to us. It was a shame that someone with sticky fingers had recently removed the data plate so its anyones guess what the back half of the truck was
Regards, Nathan