How To: Installing 9:00-16 tires on CMP wheels

[Bob Carriere]

I have finally documented the installation of a Americam bead profile Michelin XL on a Canadian CMP 16 in. rim intended for "British 5 degree wheels"

I have previously showed pcitures of the device we designed/built at the barn but this will be more complete. It will take numerous postings as I have great details covered by 40 + pictures. The may need to be grouped in series of 5 due to web limitations. All pictures were shot inside the barn using ambient light, later sequenced, cropped and resized. It took twice as long to get the package together thanit took us to do the job.

So here goes the first series starting with the home made tool.

Pic 1- Simple construction that will allow squeezing the tire on the CMP rim.
Pic 2 and 3 Using standard 1x2 in. stock..... 3/16 thcik wall for rigidity.
Pic 4- threaded rods 3/4 in. NOTe initially we used regualr hardware store rods and the thread started to chip and gall after the secodn tire.
So we made new one from Grade 8 threaded rod and started using anti-seize compound.......
Pic 5 A section of 36 inches will yeild 4 9 inch sections...... nuts were welded on.

[Bob Carriere]

Comments to follow pictures.

Pic 6 Two crosses where fabricated...... the bottom one will fit underside fo the lower half of the CMP wheel
Pic 7 the top cross is 18 3/4 in. the btoom one 14 inches. Holes are drilled to match the bolt circle of the CMP wheel pattern. Holes are best drilled at 7/8 for some looseness.
Pic 8 Notice the yellow arrow...... holes seem to line up better in this configuration. Nuts have been welded on the bottom of the smaller cross.
Pic 9 The top cross is meant to fit loosely on top of the bottom half of the CMP rim.
Pic 10 You can see the space between rim and puch blocks. Blocks were made of cut off piece 2x2 and welded.
NOTE.... if Imade another one I would reduce the space between rim and cross puch bocks to about 1/8 of an inch.

When that cross with the blocks if fulled screw in the tire bead willbe at least 2 inches or about mid way on the bottom half of the rim.

[Bob Carriere]

Once this is over coudl someone show me how to insert pictures with text so I do not have to use the edit posrtion to add the captions...

Pic 12 Shows the bottom of the rim with the cross sitting inside.... roughly lined up with the wheel holes.
Pic 13 Flipped over the cross is now resting on a scrap piece of wood roughly 7x7 square... it keeps the bottom cross held against the rim and makes it easier to start the bolts.....
Pic 14 shows the upper cross overlapping the rim's edge.
Pic 15 & 16 shows the NOS Michelin tire...... rim is clean ....NO rubber has been removed and no magic dust used to facilitate installation.
Tire was removed from a STEYR rim...... acquired fullly installed from Bombardier who were working on a reverse engineering projecy that went defunct..... all 5 wheel/rims were acquired at a very modest price. Theystill have the rubber teats from the molding and I assumed not driven on except to rool into the plant.

Rims were cut with a 4 in. grinder to make sure the bead would not be damaged during removal.

[Bob Carriere]

Now for the dry run.....

Pic 17- Tire is just barely balanced on the bottom half of the rim. Actually had a tendency to iether slip on one side or the other.
Pic 18 Looking at the isnde of this dry mount....... the side further form the camera was slightly lower than the front side..... that is where the tool comes handy in leveling this difference.
Pic 19 We have installed the top cross inside the rim....... a little tricky as the side walls were stiff and the push block had to be squeezed in. Two bolts are installed for this dry installation/illustration.

Pic 20 & 21 shows how the push blocks are resting on the bead. Not even at this stage but when we do the actual installation the high side would be srewed down first then alternate to keep the cross even.

Now we move on to the actual SNOTHY installation.

[Bob Carriere]

The fun part.

The first few tires we installed we used just brute force then a truck tire dealer sold me a left over tire lubricating compound for 5 bucks... best money ever spent and we still have enough for x number of tires as you need very little.

For this exercise I really spead it on thick so it could be visible. You need a pair of disposable rubber gloves and you just scoop it up in your hand and smear it generously on the tire bead and the rim bottom half.

now for the Pics..

Pic 22& 23 the Snoth bucket..... we had to warm it up by the furnace so it would flow. It is a vegetable based thick goo.... we have about 3 inches left or 5 years worth. No smell can't tell you what it tastes like but Grant was forever threathening me to wipe his hand on my face as I had use a liberal amount.
Pic 24 snoth applied.......
Pic 25 & 26 Starting to screw down the thread rods until you start getting a contact between nut/washer/upper cross. The you habe to go slowly to make sure the tire bead slips evenly on all four side....

[Bob Carriere]

Just hate it when I get disconnected..... web seems to be acting strange and slow tonite..... may be the wires are toooo cold.

Pic 27 / 28/ 29.. Threaded rods are now going downin a criss cross pattern making sure the bead is being pushed onto the rim evenly. some of the snoth is visible being squeezed out...... it is recommended for use on flaps and tubes as well.
Pic 3- and 31... threaded rods are not fully screws down against the rim. The tire is now firmly in place at least two inches down or about mid point onthe bottom half of the rim. We used an impact pun but a wrench or ratchet would do just as well.... no great torque needs with the rods lubricated and the tire snoth.

In retrospect the pcuh blocks could have been made longer to puch down further but it becomes a bitch to remove and harder to insert at the start with increase height. The width of the 2 in. block seems to be a happy compromise.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Bob,

Thanks for sharing your experience, most interesting so I split it off the Hammond thread to its own thread.

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Once this is over coudl someone show me how to insert pictures with text so I do not have to use the edit posrtion to add the captions...

See the posting images thread.

H.

[Robert Bergeron]

Fantastique Bob. You have solved a long standing problem for all of us !

[rob love]

Once caution I woudl add is that if you end up nicking or cutting the bead, the tire can self destruct during inflation or operation.

I was recently repairing tires on a limber and gun which had previously been done by the local tire company without skiving. On filling, it appeared that one tire would not seat it's bead. After tear down, the cut in the bead was obvious and I had to scrap what otherwise was a 98% tread non-directional tire.

Personally I will continue to skive the tires slightly. I used to force the tires onto the rims using the Coats 5000 tire machine. Works great until you need to get the tire off for a flat.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

Just stumbled on this on Youtube, just what you need for doing CMP wheels and tires.

https://youtu.be/i-3H_hV0xBM

Local big truck shop has machine line this and it really works well even on tires that have been there for a long time.

He also has a bead blasting cabinet that will take big rims and auto clean them.

Cheers Phil

PS Can't seem to get the Youtube embed to work so that it is a picture and a link to video. Whats the trick?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Tony Baker shares his experience here:

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...450#post230450