Morris C8

[pauldavies]

Guy's I am in need of some tips on how to remove the Cylinder Head from my C8 engine, the engine was still turning last month but now is solid. Seems the plug on no4 port was loose and water has gotten in which turned to corrosion and jammed everything, I removed the sump and all looks good but no4 piston is the culprit. I have poured diesel in the plug hole which does seem to be holding the liquid and I will leave for a few more weeks yet. I had a go at lifting the head but no movement yet so if any one has any ideas for when I start again they would be more than welcome. The reason I am removing the head is the gasket needs replacing as there is evidence of a leak out the side of the engine. Tried the starter and the four prizing points!

[T Creighton]

Hi Paul.
Scroll down to my thread on removing the head studs.
Phil has posted some good advice for lifting the head there.
When I bought my truck 3 plugs were rusted right off but I had no problems
getting the head off.
The studs are a different story.
All the best.
Terry

Oops, just noticed Phil's posting not there any more so go to his website.

[Lynn Eades]

When you get the head off, light a fire on top of the piston. It will heat it and the rings and the expansion will free them from the (being frozen to)bore.
A small bit of rag and diesel is all you need. It will burn slowly with a yellow sooty flame.Let it burn for quite a while. Probably you will put the diesel in the hole, light he rag, then drop it in.
When the fire it out, add some oil before trying to turn it over.

[Bob Carriere]

The piston rings are probably rust welded to the cylinder walls....... amazingly strong when you consider the surface area of the ring against the cylinder wall.

I have had better luck with some mechanical force than with diesel, ATF, rust blaster, Gibbs, etc.....

Cut yourself a good sturdy piece of wood that will almost cover the whole face of the piston...... leave the diesel fuel 1/8 of an inch..... you have the bottom end open...... locate number four and hopefully it is probably half way up or down...... alternatively tap the piston from the top and tap the crank ( using a block of wood ) from below...... be patient.... it will eventually break free....... you may need to polish the cylinder wall with 600 grit emery paper soaked in fuel...... rings may need to be replaced....... has worked for me every time on old Allis Chalmers tractors that were left in the rain. Having someone to tap from the top as you tap from underneath is a God send..... don't ask your helper to do the tapping from below...... the oil drips will spoil the friendship. I have done this with the engine still in the tractor frame.....and my old WC and C are still running.

cheers

[pauldavies]

Thanks every one and I will be giving all these answers a go next week when I get back on the C8

[pauldavies]

Just an interesting conundrum for every one, on removing my cylinder head today I found there were two copper gaskets fitted, any ideas? I did use the timber wedge technique thanks to Philip@cmp.com.

[cletrac (RIP)]

Likely trying to seal a warped head or block.

[Greg Beeston]

It may not be why your C8 has two head gaskets but I've heard the PMG used to fit two head gaskets to lower the compression / performance of there cars

[pauldavies]

Interesting David and will check out the head and block tomorrow.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Paul

Glad you got the head off. Are the piston tops flat or domed? If they are domed check to see how much clearance there is piston to head. Did these engines have or change from flat to domed piston?

Reason I say this is that when had to replace the head one my HUP the new head was ment for flat top pistons but the engine had domed piston I replaced the pistons.

Having said all that my bet is on Greg's theory done to allow the engine to burn lower octane fuel.

Cheers Phil