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#1
29-04-13, 12:24
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Nasty surprise
After a recent engine change a most unwelcome water leak in the form of a crack in the block (Chev 6cyl.) became evident and no amount of choice language would make it disappear. Seriously, a metal stitching exercise will occur
in the near future using the US "Lockinstitch" product to repair the damage. Images attached. Can any knowledgeable member tell me what the wall thickness is in this area of the block? Thanks and regards.... Rod 
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#2
29-04-13, 12:56
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I am spending too long on forums
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I was only looking at the Stovebolt site for new things they have posted up and I found that someone has just faced the same issue that you are. They posted up a step by step description of what they did and also links to the manufacturer's page - go to this link http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/en...racked%20block I hope it is of some help to you.  Kind Regards Lionel
__________________
1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2
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#4
29-04-13, 15:05
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Lionel I checked it out. Seems I am not going to avoid a test hole or 2 although another chap is going to check out an old block for me tomorrow. Following is a link to one of the Locknstitch training videos which was also very informative.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk Watch this space as they say!! Rod
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#5
29-04-13, 20:01
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I'd just groove it a bit with an angle grinder and use JB Weld on it.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#6
29-04-13, 20:53
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Been there, done that ....
My Chevrolet 1.5 ton had a crack like that, so I called in the Metallock site chap and he fixed it on site, in the truck.
but ... First thing he did was clean the surface of the block and do a dye penetrant check, which revealed the crack went from than location ALL the way back to the bell housing. To be fair he just chased it down and fixed it - worked perfectly afterwards and didn't leak Apparently this is at a change of section thickness and a known weak point. Since yours is bleeding through the paint I'd suggest that the crack may be longer - strip back the paint along the same line each end of the crack. Get it fixed on site, by a professional, them just forget it, but do check your oil in case the water is going in, as well as out.
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Gordon, in Scotland
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#7
30-04-13, 05:30
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Quote:
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Robert Pearce.
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#8
30-04-13, 01:14
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Quote:
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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