How to wire up 1940 rubber CMP tail lights

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Guys, I am looking to wire in some old original black rubber CMP tail lights.
They have a nickel plated fitting (I'll call it a barrel) in the back that pushes in and turns, like most bulbs of the day. the nickel body has a small knurled nut that unscrews. This is where the wires enter the lights. There is an internal insulator with two tubes for the wires. I cannot see a way that it dis assembles.
My question is, How am I supposed to fix the wires into the small metal holes?
The end of the metal bits are also the contacts where the sprung loaded pins touch when the barrel is loaded into the main body of the light fitting.

Bob C. are you familiar with these old lights?

I haven't done any photos. I was hoping someone (cab 11 and 12 experts) knew what I am talking about.

[rob love]

All the ones I have seen used a plug that was similar in shape to the candelabra base of the light bulb. I'm not sure if that's what you are talking about, so photos would be best. I know I have re-wired these in the past.

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Rob, these are the lights.
The insulator part appears to be permanent in the brass (nickel) body.
It looks like the only way to hook the wire in is to solder it in, but as the ends actually contact the sprung pins in the light body, it seems wrong to me.
I have wondered if there was a crimp or soldered termination, but the holes are too small to allow it.
I have another type that the insulator drops out of an alloy body, giving access to screws that clamp the wire. I would however like to use the originals.

[Lynn Eades]

A couple more of the item in question. Anyone familiar with them?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Lynn

Interesting question.... I beleive every rubber light I have came with the pig tails installed....... now I am curious....

will be in the barn tomorrow and pull out the parts bins to check and photograph.

Stay tuned.

Bob C

[Lauren Child]

Funnily enough, I picked some of these up as trailer connectors. Looking at them I'd have to go with soldering, but you're right it looks really finicky.

I'm surprised there's not a crimp to hold the wire for strain relief, and to waterproof the back.