Starting restoration of LAAT

maverick · #1 12-11-06, 13:40

Having purchased a F30 and F60s both LAA i am now pondering on the best way to restore them ! all answers gratefully received on the best way to start restoration.

Phil Waterman · #2 12-11-06, 16:59

I’d start if you have not already done so by visiting the several different Web Pages that have been done by different members of our little band that show what they have gone through. Here are a few of the ones that have come up on MLU to start with-
http://www.primeportal.net/trucks/je...y_gun_tractor/
http://www.bmts.com/~caldwell/index.htm
http://www.canadianregister.co.uk/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/nirpvad/cmpbody.html
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/pit/8092/index.htm
http://bcoy1cpb.pacdat.net/
http://www.vehiclesofvictory.com/Tech%20tips.htm
http://www.vehiclesofvictory.com/Tech%20tips.htm
http://www.ktr.nl/index_wide.asp?page=home&lang=(EN)
http://www.lwdparts.com/
http://www.geocities.com/cmpvehicles/
http://metalmeet.com/
http://www.military-vehicle-museum.org.au/links.htm
http://www.oldcmp.net/findit.html
http://www.omva.ca/
http://dana-nield.com/vimy/CMPs.asp
http://chevy.tocmp.com/
http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.com/

Ok guys what are some of the others that touch on restoration?
There are something over 500 posts on restoration on MLU from the past.

One other thought when I started out on my HUP I did a running restoration. Meaning that I got it road worthy in the shortest possible time and started to enjoy driving it. I’ve had done complete restorations on antique cars before where I did not get to drive them until they were all done, I’ve got one that remains unfinished after 30 years. But the HUP has been driven and enjoyed almost every month for 28 years. Now after nearly 30 years of running my HUP is ready to be restored again, but I am really reluctant to take it apart because it is such a blast to drive. But now with two other CMPs maybe it is OK.

Keith Orpin · #3 13-11-06, 13:56

Hi Maverick,
I'm glad to see that someone has finally managed to rescue these two LAAT's. Several years ago I spent a few hours talking to the then owner of them,and ended up taking some pictures of them, oddly enough, your picture of the F60 is almost taken from the same spot that I took mine. I was interested in the hoodbows and their assembly, for my C30 LAAT. If it were me embarking on this project, I would start on the F30, as this one is partially stripped, and if I remember the engine was in one of the sheds. The F30 also looked in better shape than the F60 did (at the time). A lot also depends on how much room you have, bearing in mind you will need at least the same area for all the bits you take off, as is taken up by the vehicle. Take lots of pictures, especially before and during stripping down, as these are very useful when you start putting it all back together. Essential to any rebuild are the operators and spares manuals. As Phil says, check out the other restorations on this site
Best of luck with these projects, don't rush it, it will probably take best part of 3-4 years to complete just one of them, and if you have any questions,don't be afraid to ask
Regards
Keith

Lynn Eades · #4 13-11-06, 20:48

My advise, Pick the one you like the most, and do that one to completion. Then, if your still motivated, start the other. Having too many projects going at one time spreads the time and $$ too thin and turns them into such a marathon, that nothing gets finished.

maverick · #5 15-11-06, 11:10

Thanks for the feedback the F30 has its engine in and is running, i will probably start with this truck and progress from there. The F60S has the cab off and the engine needs attention, trying to restore both in tandem would make hard work of it.

Bob Carriere · #6 17-11-06, 21:30

Be patient.

Start by getting a good digital camera and photograh everything from 4 different angles.... than take 4 more....

Get yourself more storage space on your computer and BACKUP every photo.

Do only one truck at a time.... keep the other one as a visual reference.

Be patient.

Talk to as many people as you can .... MLU is worth it's weight in gold.

Ask questions..... even if you think they are stupid or may know the answer.... ask away.

Be prepare to share what you learn.

Be patient.

.... and don't forget this hobby can become an obsession... learn to control it and above all enjoy it.

Accept that some compromise may be necessary for safety or dependability.... its your truck what you decide is no one else's business.... its your truck.

Be patient.

Glad to see another one getting sucked into the hobby.

Now got out there and remove the first bolt... any bolt and have someone take the first picture while you are still young.

I am 3 + years into mine and still going....

Bob C.

sth65pac · #7 22-11-06, 12:22

Hi Maverick,

The biggest thing I have learned is TAG everything......Every Nut, bolt and washer..... Then its easy to read where it goes and not just guess. Buy good quality 1"x3" tags to write on.. then it makes life easy to assemble in a years time!

Second thing is get all your new or missing parts FIRST.... then tear down and rebuild. It saves frustrations in not getting a project completed. ALL the professionals do it this way... they even make money!

Third thing is to....... (as Bob says) ***BE PATIENT***. You can take your time and enjoy the experience. You will learn more and you will save money.

Ian

Lynn Eades · #8 23-11-06, 08:28

Be warned, this is a terminal disease, not a social disease. (Your partner may never catch it) If you think the project will cost $2000, it will probably cost $4000. Then you have to double it again (half for your partner-peace tax) This is why single guys have more money, and get more done(and stay single) Then when everything is going great! paint comes along, all 72,307 shades of green, not to mention enamel,laquer,acrylic..., and then there's incompatable primers, and flatting base. Then by accident you come across a Carrier for sale, so you have to have it as a follow up project, And then you realize that you can't get anything done in the shed because it's too small.....Darling....I need to build a bigger shed....Holiday...? Not that again.... Then one day very soon, Darling,.. I wonder if I'll be able to climb in and out of this Carrier by the time I finish it?
Enjoy the journey Maverick. This forum helps to put the wheels back on, when they fall off.

Keith Webb · #9 23-11-06, 09:14

Quote:

This forum helps to put the wheels back on, when they fall off.

The international CMP self-help group is what we are!

Robert Farmer · #10 23-11-06, 10:53

Hi Maverick! Silly question, Where the hell is Swindon Wlts? By the way I've been going at a Dodge for 3 1/2 years and its still only a painted chassis. As they say, 'perfection takes time'
Robert

maverick · #11 23-11-06, 10:58

The partner peace tax bit is spot on, its difficult if your other half doesn't embrace your hobby. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions

maverick · #12 23-11-06, 11:00

Swindon Wiltshire is in England , good luck with your restoration

alleramilitaria · #13 23-11-06, 17:01

swindon is a nice place, i purchased a 44 morris 15CWT there and drove it home..... to mainz germany

Lynn Eades · #14 24-11-06, 07:18

Dave, You get around!

maverick · #15 21-01-07, 19:03

Apart from the six u shaped bolts how easy is it to take the back body off a laat ? And roughly does anyone know how much it weighs ? ta

cletrac (RIP) · #16 21-01-07, 20:05

I don't know what it would weigh, but the 5 foot long body off a C8 is all four people can handle.

Bob Carriere · #17 22-01-07, 17:01

Careful Maverick....

Cargo Box 2b1 on a C15a, which is minimum 12 gauge steel, required the front bucket of my trctor to lift safely.......

...even with rusty holes and no tailgate I would estimate to be around 1000 pounds...... a C30 with extra lenght is definitely more........ be careful.

Bob C.

Hanno Spoelstra · #18 22-01-07, 21:53

Quote:

Originally posted by maverick
And roughly does anyone know how much it weighs ? ta

Damn heavy! Weight is the difficulty when removing these bodies. The basic 15-cwt body weighs 867 pounds (see C15 Box Weight). Like Bob said the LAAT box will be a good bit heavier, I'd guess at least twice that of the 15-cwt body.

H.

maverick · #19 24-04-07, 11:08

Having stripped everything off the back body, its now time to jack the body up and pull the chassis out from underneath. Having not done this before and still no idea as to the actual weight i hope i get it right! Or is there a better way of doing it ?

Bob Carriere · #20 24-04-07, 15:50

Bonjour Allan

Around here when locla truck drivers need to remove a 27 CU yard box off a frame they do the following.

They make for stacks of 4x4 lumber ...each piece about 24 inches long....... stack them up like a small log house near each of the corners of the box.....

They then raise the box off the frame at one end using a bottle jack..... and slip a large beam under the box resting on the crib of stacked 4x4.

Then do the opposite end..... once clear of the frame roll out the truck from under neath. If properly positioned on these four stacks of wood you can actually even work on the underside of the box...... and it is ready to re-install when finished. Make sure youe cribs are far enough apart to clear tyres, etc.....

If you are rich, you can build two large A frame and suspend the box in the air with two overhead hand winches or chain falls........ but the price of steel beams today is awful.

Remember this is a hobby...don't get hurt.... if things slide... jump out of the way....

Keep us posted and send some pictures of your progress.

Bob

rampant rivet · #21 24-04-07, 19:06

Heres how I lifted my rear body of my C15 =

Get hold of four 45 gal oil drums ( empty )

Jack rear body up using a couple of 2.5 ton jacks and some 4"x4"
timbers to reach from jack to underside of body.

Slide drums under rear corners of body, then lower.

Repeat process to front corners.

Carefully roll chassis out from under

This is how I did it and am about to lower my body back on using same process in reverse.

Whatever way you do it, do it safely.

Cheers RR

Mike Timoshyk · #22 24-04-07, 19:21

Thanks .....this method is what I will be using in the near future...

Great idea for us who don't live on or near a farm. I don't know of too many MVers in the suburbs that have their own forklifts or tractors (large size, not lawn mowers)

cheers

Mike

52 M38
42 MB
43 F15A
53 POW

rampant rivet · #23 03-05-07, 18:03

Mike
Just lowered my steel / timber body onto the C 15 chassis all went well though I did have to add some 4x2 timber between oil drums and body to clear wheels you may have to do the same.
Rest of pics on my C15 resto thread.

RR.

maverick · #24 29-07-07, 23:25

At last managed to raise the back body and pull the truck out from underneath. The chassis doesn't look in to bad shape for a sixty year old plus vehicle. The back body took the worst of the fact that it had been stood outside for a good few years. whats the recommended method of cleaning the chassis up ?

maverick · #25 02-08-07, 22:45

rampant rivet · #26 04-08-07, 18:56

Hi Alan
I found the best way to clean the chassis is to prop it up take the wheels off and any other parts inc cab floor frame, engine etc and clean all the crud off with gunk or suitable degreaser and steamclean or pressure wash the worst of it off taking care not to damage oil seals.
Then when all is prepared get a mobile shotblaster to come out and clean the lot, its expensive but is the best and easiest way to get back to bare metal. I used over 30 bags of shot on my truck and as soon as the parts were cleaned I gave them an acid etch primer coat then an anti corrosion coat, is amazing how quick newly cleaned steel will rust.

Cheers RR.

just before start

Chassis with coat of gry anti corrosion

maverick · #27 05-08-07, 21:22

Hi Ramps thanks for the advice and pics, really feel that were moving forward again now that the rear body is off. How long did it take roughly to grit blast in your case ? I will have to possibly get some quotes in for that finances permitting.

rampant rivet · #28 05-08-07, 21:39

Hi Alan
Well it took all day to blast chassis, cab parts and rear body plus any other bits that I could gather up, now for the painfull bit it cost me inc 30 plus bags of grit over £300 for the day

I know its seems a lot of money but the guy did a good job and you'd never get all the rust off otherwise plus he came out to where the truck was which saved a lot of hassle transporting the parts.

Cheers RR.

maverick · #29 09-09-07, 22:11

Any ideas as to where i might find the chassis number, i believe its around 1944 build date but the door plate is missing. I will need something so i can get it registered here in the UK. The military vehicle trust will verifiy its age but a chassis number would be useful.

Jim Price · #30 06-07-08, 18:16

Saw this thread this am and read it over to see what the various techniques were that were used to do this removal. Here's a variation on those posted:

I backed my double-axle car hauler trailer up to the rear of the truck and used a hand winch to pull the bed off the truck. When the bed was at the teeter point I put a hand made 4-wheeled (4" swivel wheels) dolly under the end so that it could ride on the dolly. We then continued to pull the bed off onto the trailer until it fell free of the truck frame. Continued to pull it to the front of the trailer until it was balanced over the trailer wheels. Took two of us to do it. Worked well with no problems!

Regards,
Jim