crankshaft oil seal rope

[Michael Eaton]

Hi All, trying resolve oil leak on my C60L 216 engine which seems to come from the crankshaft at the clutch end .Considering if this can be done from under the engine with the sump removed or is it a strip down only? Where could I get the rope seal and what size would I need. Any comments appreciated. Cheers Mike

[Mike K]

Have a look at this

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=29409

It's a job that's very difficult ( impossible ) to do correctly if the crankshaft is in position.

It's a job that's normally done during engine assembly .

Using a appropriate tool, the new rope has to be "rolled" or forced into the odd shaped groove that is machined in the engine block . And, some permatex sealant is applied under the rope to prevent the oil seeping under tne rope. Then, some grease is used on the rope to prevent it from burning during the first start up.

Some of the currently available rope material is not good quality. I would go to a reputable engine builder/machine shop and ask what rope they use., and buy the rope from them.

Apparently there is a modern rubber seal available, I wouldn't use a rubber seal myself. On the G503 forum, many jeep owners have reported problems with using the rubber seals as a replacement for the original style graphite impregnated rope seal.

[Mike K]

Some claim to have to have replaced the seal by lowering the crank, but this isn't the proper method . There isn't enough room to get a new rope " rolled" into its slot correctly. It all sounds like a bodge.

I replaced the rope seal in my C8 216 using the method described in my previous post, and it has never leaked. It's the type of job that needs to be done correctly the 'first time.' You don't want to to be pulling the engine apart again to fix a rear main oil leak.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...cement.176292/

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

If you go to YouTube and type in "Chev 216 rope seal replacement" there are numerous results. Some like this one, look at how to machine in a more modern bearing that eliminates the rope seal all together. Accessed 12/01/2026 from, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmZsh8qMBdw&t=462s.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Mike K]

This is a informative read:

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/0609sr...ear-main-seals

Summing up the information:

* Until the 1980s rope seals were made from a woven asbestos material.

* Best quality modern rope seals are made from a graphite impregnated synthetic material.

* Rope seals need to be formed or rolled into the machined groove.

* Rope seals are more forgiving , they require less precision and allow for less than perfect surface finishes.

[Michael Eaton]

Hi Guys, Many thanks for the information and thoughts on fixing an oil leak on the crankshaft much appreciated. I think the basic issue is one of not using the truck enough as it has covered very limited mileage since I restored it and never leaked much when driving it around the farm. (Never had to strip the engine).
Will give it more use and see if it improves the situation. Mike

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Mike

They have gone over this issue repeatedly....... you are not the only one with post nuzzle drip......

The advice from Mike K. is spot on....rolling the rope seal in place with a spare piston wrist pin is the only way to go...... and some have had good results with the new modern seals........ maybe there is an element of luck.

By the way using the modern synthetic oil or lubricant in old engines/gear boxes..... seems to encourage leaking........ I tend to use Penn oil/lub designed for old engines.

.... but in all honesty my 40 Chev with a rebuilt 261 ALWAYS marks it territory like an old bulldog!!!!!! I only worry when it does not occasionally drip from somewhere... but has never failed.

Bob C

[chris vickery]

I replaced the rope seal in a Chevy HUP in situ, years ago.
What I can tell you about it, it was extremely difficult. Somewhere around, I still have my puller tool for this procedure. It was a chinese finger trap
on a wire which had to be threaded up over and around the upper part of the crank. The tool “gripped” the rope and had to be pulled into place. If I recall correctly, the main caps were loosened to give the crank some room.
If I were to have to do it ever again, the engine would be pulled and put up on a stand done correctly.