TOWING M38A1 four wheels down

OttawaValleyGuy · #1 03-11-10, 16:33

Can someone recomend how I can safely tow my Kaiser all wheels down ?

Thanks
Howard

Don Dingwall · #2 03-11-10, 18:34

Tow bar, magnetic lights etc.

I do it frequently--no problems yet.

Just make sure the towing vehicle can handle it.

HTH
Don

Grant Bowker · #3 03-11-10, 22:08

If you are nervous about the condition of the transmission or transfer case you could disconnect the driveshafts from transfer case to axles.

rob love · #4 04-11-10, 00:45

Put the transfer case in neutral and the tranny in gear. You do not want the transmission output shaft turning for a long distance as there is no lubrication for the small bearing in between the input shaft and the output shaft. The lube comes from the input shaft, which can't splash oil if the engine is not running.

Along with the A frame and lights, you shoudl also have a safety chain between the two vehicles, and hooked up in such a way that if the tow bar lets loose, the towed vehicle will be pulled towards the ditch rather than the center of the road.

maple_leaf_eh · #5 04-11-10, 01:46

The term I've seen on this topic is called flat towing. There are guys who will tell you this is very bad on the front end of the M38A1. You'll tow it once and then regret it - so THEY say.

I brought 70-08876 from Oshawa on a U-Haul two-wheel dolly behind the family minivan with exactly the same rigging the guys have described. Whenever I've moved it around town, it goes on its 4 wheels.

rob love · #6 04-11-10, 11:04

I'm not sure I understand how towing will effect the front axle of the M38A1. I have towed a number of this family of Jeep many, many miles and never experienced any problems.

One problem that can be experienced with any A framing, is that on a corner, you can end up with the wheels of the towing vehicle turning sharply over and not returning to center, and then dragging the vehicle doing the towing somewhere where it shouldn't be. It is always desirable to have the vehicle doing the towing to outweigh the towed vehicle. Also, try and keep the corners as wide as you can make them, rather than really tight.

Quite frankly, I started using a flat deck trailer many years ago and all my A frame towbars have just sat unused since then.

Robin Craig · #7 04-11-10, 13:10

Be very Careful!

Yes you can do it, alot do. If you were towing a trailer you would have the option of having it braked.

You will always be incrementally better off the larger the towing vehicle is in relation to the flat towed one.

We do it on a regular basis with a 2003 Dodge Ram Dually 1 ton towing a Land Rover 90.

The only problems i have personally had, have been preventable if you think about them.

Firstly, avoid at all costs atempting to reverse where possible, trust me.

Second, dont be doing this on the road when anything that will reduce the grip of the towed vehicle to the road. Those kinds of things are heavy rain and snow and ice.

Going around a corner with what in effect is a large pendulum behind you gets very exciting if the towed vehicle starts to loose traction and develop a mind of its own. Its a classic brown trousers moment.

Going around a corner in snow or on ice or during heavy rain, if the towed vehicle's front wheels loose grip it will want to go straight on and not make the corner. If you are decelerating the effect will be amplified as the towed vehicle will have the ability to push the rear of the towing vehicle sideways.

I have been driving and towing for a good number of years and have made most of the mistakes one can make, I'm not perfect, I have just been lucky so far.

Ensure your hardware is of a good grade and dont take chances.

Robin

pzrwest · #8 04-11-10, 15:57

A quick note on the safety chains.... always run your safety chains below the towing bar and cross them. If for some reason the towbar fails the bar cannot drop down and hit the ground and with the chains crossed the towed vehicle will track strait

OttawaValleyGuy · #9 05-11-10, 13:57

Thanks to all of you for the suggestions.

I have a 2500 ram diesel so I will be ok for weight and power.
And I have a good strong A frame hitch with good strong safety chains.

After reading all your comments, I think I will disconect both drive shafts just to be on the safe side.

1,500 miles is a bit of a tow.

Thanks again to all of you.
YOU make this site SO VALUABLE.

Howard

rob love · #10 05-11-10, 16:47

On a tow that length, if you don't know when the last time the wheel bearings were packed, I would suggest you take an hour and prep them. I used to take the time to do this when I would recover CMPs, and often as not I was glad I did. It doesn't have to be a great job, just disassemble, quick repack, and reassemble with the same seals. It is just so you don't have any incidents during the trip.

Just the front bearings of course, you can top up the grease in the rear wheels with a few shots of the grease gun. You may have to bring grease nipples for the rear, as there was a mod to remove the nipples and manually grease those bearings.

Bob Carriere · #11 05-11-10, 17:19

Hi Howard

I have been following your thread for a while.....BUT.... now that you included the total distance I would not do it as a flat tow.

I know we are all on tight budgets with our hobbies but the potential for trouble....some of it very costly...... is very high for a long distance tow.

Sure bearings can be repacked........ how good are the tires.... they may look good with lots of thread left...but.... how will they behave in that constant highway driving.

How much money have you got invested in the vehicle you are towing....? how much will it cost you to burn a rear axle bearing and have to find a replacement axle because the axle shaft has been chewed up....

How about the potential damage to your Ram.....???

The jeep you plan to tow is light weight and a rented U haul car trailer will safely handle it. Think of the piece of mind you will have driving back home not having to constantly look into the rear mirror and not having to keep your speed down in case the jeep tires can't handle it..... and no concerns for changing weather conditions..

One more caution.... if you are going that far ....make sure you have a spare for the trailer......oh and a suitable jack...... I speak from experience.

Hope to meet you one day..... you will need to visit the Hammond barn.

Bob C

Bob

BOBM35A2 · #12 07-11-10, 17:14

Howard,
My rule of thumb is, if it's too far to drive, put it on a trailer and tow it.
Murphy's Law has always prevailed. Long distance flat towing is asking for trouble. Bearings, tires, and gears. If any one goes, your in a lot of grief. Stuck somewhere, broken parts, tow truck, watching your wallot and time thinning and of course Aggrevation. It's a Charlie Brown Play, if you get there alright your a hero, if you don't make it, your screwed. A good trailer is cheap and a dependable way to get your vehicle there. and back, time and time again. One bad flat tow and you've paid for that trailer, but you'll never get your agrevation spent back.
I've trailered my M38a1 CDN 2 over 2,000 miles this year and it's a very good feeling that when I back it off the trailer, I know excatly what condition it's in.
Good luck,
Bob M.

OttawaValleyGuy · #13 07-11-10, 18:31

Thanks you all again.

I do have a good trailer with 7,000 axles with brakes and a set of good ramps so I will forget about being a cheap old fart and do what is right.

Even my wife will now sit and be content.

I will be leaving for Florida on Thurs. morning and will try to post a pic of how we will be travelling.

I will be wintering at Daytona if any of you guys intend to get down that way.

Do any of you know of any Kaiser/jeep meets down that way?

Thanks
Howard

Wpns 421 · #14 07-11-10, 21:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Hi Howard

I have been following your thread for a while.....BUT.... now that you included the total distance I would not do it as a flat tow.

I know we are all on tight budgets with our hobbies but the potential for trouble....some of it very costly...... is very high for a long distance tow.

Sure bearings can be repacked........ how good are the tires.... they may look good with lots of thread left...but.... how will they behave in that constant highway driving.

How much money have you got invested in the vehicle you are towing....? how much will it cost you to burn a rear axle bearing and have to find a replacement axle because the axle shaft has been chewed up....

How about the potential damage to your Ram.....???

The jeep you plan to tow is light weight and a rented U haul car trailer will safely handle it. Think of the piece of mind you will have driving back home not having to constantly look into the rear mirror and not having to keep your speed down in case the jeep tires can't handle it..... and no concerns for changing weather conditions..

One more caution.... if you are going that far ....make sure you have a spare for the trailer......oh and a suitable jack...... I speak from experience.

Hope to meet you one day..... you will need to visit the Hammond barn.

Bob C

Bob

I completely agree with Bob, flat tows are ok for short distance anything else gates a trailer ride. Also if you want to attend any events in Florida go to the Steel soldiers website and sign on, then ask. Gilles