welding cracks in Blitz chassis

Jason Linders · #1 24-04-13, 01:33

Hi does anyone have a manual that state how to repair cracks in the chassie rails or the manufacturers recommendations for a ford blitz,dont wont to replace the rails becouse of the chassie number and its on a FGT no8 gun tractor. i have someone lined up to do the repairs but just seeing if there is any info on the repair for the blitz.

Any help would be good
Thanks

aj.lec · #2 24-04-13, 02:47

Make sure you use low carbon rods or a Mig otherwise it will crack as soon as it gets a bit of stress
Frame should be cut at 45 degrees to maximise strength at a non-load bearing point
Reinforcing plate should be added on the inside and welded on top and bottom edges (not on end of plates)End weld will cause a fatigue point and sometimes will crack at this point. Plate should extend well past connection point

Jason Linders · #3 24-04-13, 03:01

Thanks for that aj.lec so would it be wise to cut past both the crack at 45 then replace with a new peace of rail

aj.lec · #4 24-04-13, 03:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Linders

Thanks for that aj.lec so would it be wise to cut past both the crack at 45 then replace with a new peace of rail

One old bloke I was speaking to that repaired trucks for years suggested cutting frame in between hangers and doing the join there and plating to past the hangers in either direction

Jason Linders · #5 24-04-13, 03:46

Thanks for the advice the only problem i have is if i put between front hangers ill loose my vin number, but rear hanger is no problems.
Thanks

cletrac (RIP) · #6 24-04-13, 03:58

I doubt that you'd need to add the strengthening plates. On the 8 cwts Ford cut the frame rails at an angle and butt welded them together and that was it. How much rough use will a restored gun tractor get anyway?
I'd groove the crack a bit with an angle grinder then weld it with enough heat to get good penetration then grind it smooth. Do the same on the other side and keep going. Plates welded on will detract from the restoration in my opinion.
Personally I'd get a 15 cwt frame and stamp your serial # on it and forget the welding.

hrpearce · #7 24-04-13, 04:05

Jason post pictures of the cracks for accurate replys.

Jason Linders · #8 24-04-13, 06:00

cracks in chassie rail someone at some stage did a crap fix on them.

Jason Linders · #9 24-04-13, 06:01

another pic

aj.lec · #10 24-04-13, 06:34

She has definately had a hard life

That chassis is a mess
Personally I would look for another chassis. F15A and add the double rail at rear and transfer winch mounts and assorted bits

hrpearce · #11 24-04-13, 08:11

I agree with AJ. I was hoping you just had some small cracks that were easy fixed. It looks like you might need some new spring hangers as well as the repairs. Good luck you have a lot of work there. The MB-F1 recomends hot riveting chanel or angle reinforcing behind the weld and welding the outside edges together.

Jason Linders · #12 25-04-13, 00:45

Now for the fun part finding a chassie in QLD for the replacement rails,
And thanks for all the replies

Lionelgee · #13 25-04-13, 02:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Linders

Now for the fun part finding a chassie in QLD for the replacement rails,
And thanks for all the replies

PM Sent Jason - a possible lead not too far from you

Kind Regards
Lionel

Tony Wheeler · #14 25-04-13, 20:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by cletrac

Personally I'd get a 15 cwt frame and stamp your serial # on it and forget the welding.

...or cut out the serial and weld it into the new chassis. That way it would be the "genuine chassis number"!

Tony Wheeler · #15 25-04-13, 21:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by aj.lec

She has definately had a hard life

That chassis is a mess

Not so much a hard life as a poorly designed jib. FGT chassis needs stiffening to fit a jib, they're only 15 cwt (ie. single thickness chassis rails) and the winch is located in the narrow section of the chassis rail, aft of the taper from the midsection. There's just no strength there, and with a jib fitted the winch cable pulls UP on the chassis rails instead of ALONG as designed. Unless they're stiffened like the pic below they'll bend and crack like Jason's. My FGT9 chassis is the same.

Private_collector · #16 25-04-13, 22:35

Jason,

See how you go with the source Lionel provided, and if no good there, let me know.
I may have another source for you, but it is signifigantly further away from Toowoomba. Not far from Gladstone, in fact. I would need to speak with the guy first, to find out that he would actually sell a chassis, but it is certainly a possibility.

Jason Linders · #17 26-04-13, 03:26

I phoned today and was quoted over $1000 for a bare chassis becouse they would have to strip it out and i have to pay for the striped chassie i could get a whole truck for that .

Private_collector · #18 27-04-13, 15:27

Jason,

I have sent an email to a fellow I know who could possibly have a chassis that suits. It's a long bow, but worth a shot! You will be up for a drive of about 5 hrs one way if he has something worthwhile.

I should get a reply early in the working week.

Jason Linders · #19 28-04-13, 00:43

Tony,

Thank you for that

Lionelgee · #20 28-04-13, 14:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Linders

I phoned today and was quoted over $1000 for a bare chassis becouse they would have to strip it out and i have to pay for the striped chassie i could get a whole truck for that .

G'day Jason,

I did warn you about the bloke knowing the value of everything and that there were no bargains there - if it was the source I mentioned

Kind Regards
Lionel

Jason Linders · #21 29-04-13, 10:06

Yes it was and their is no bargains at that place, but for me to pay them to strip it was just crap.

Lionelgee · #22 29-04-13, 13:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Linders

Yes it was and their is no bargains at that place, but for me to pay them to strip it was just crap.

G'day Jason,

Any hour of labour in Australia is dear that is why most of our manufacturing is done overseas. You would be paying for someone's wage unless you came and did it yourself.

What was the whole thing worth unstripped? It might have cheaper and given you some extra parts you might need down the road as you would still have to transport something the size of a chassis home anyway

Kind Regards
Lionel

Jason Linders · #23 29-04-13, 13:18

Hi Lionel

Unstripped was over $2000 so i decided to keep looking and thats what ever is left on the chassis that i wont but no cab or engine just chassis unstripped.

Lionelgee · #24 30-04-13, 09:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Linders

Hi Lionel

Unstripped was over $2000 so i decided to keep looking and thats what ever is left on the chassis that i wont but no cab or engine just chassis unstripped.

$2000 OMG!!!!!!!!!

Private_collector · #25 30-04-13, 10:14

For $2000 you could have had any number of whole vehicles off ebay or similar. Most not 15cwt though. I've not yet heard reply from my chap. I know he has at least 2 15cwt chassis.

Jason Linders · #26 12-05-13, 11:01

Thanks Tony
sorry about late replie just had some bad news in the family so been away a fair bit ATM