Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Went to see the previously mentioned new flathead block today. Mmmmm, Boy! It's a beautiful thing to behold. Much better in person, than in photos. Still coated with cosmoline & stinks accordingly. Never seen one of these new blocks personally. Don't know if I would ever get to see another one. So I bought it! Well, put a holding deposit. I'll get back there (5hr round trip) within the next fortnight, to finalise the transaction. Actual price less expensive, following negotiation. Seller is quite a decent chap, and certainly knows his stuff. Bit bewildering, some of the information, really.

I had taken certain items with me, for purpose of being sure everything fits as needed. Which they do. An interesting discovery was made while there. My crankshaft has a visible crack eminating from one of the connecting rod bearing lube holes. May not be disasterous. Only the rebuilding engineers would know for sure, and it may only be known after a magnaflux test. I'm looking at possibility of having one of the original cranks imported. It would be one made especially for these blocks, so it would mate perfectly with the French made con rods I have. I may need to fake my own disappearance, in order to affford this, but I really want this engine to be perfect. I'm not intending to need it out of the chassis once it goes in!

So ultimately, apart from the heads, distributor plate, crank & cam gears, and very little else, I will be recycling approximately DICK from the engine I bought ages ago. Such is life.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony. If you going to buy a crank Check the french crank against a merc crank.
A ford crank is 3 3/4" stroke. the Merc crank has a 4.0" stroke. The rods are the same, but each crank would need different pistons. It is the "piston height" that changes (measurement from gudgeon centre to top of piston changes) Rods are 7.0" centre to centre.
I dont know what spec the french crank is. the ford is 239 cu.in., while the merc is 255cu.in.
If you haven't found it yet, have a look at "Rumbleseat's flathead visions"
Lots of info there.

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

I dont know what spec the french crank is. the ford is 239 cu.in., while the merc is 255cu.in.

My copy of the French SUMB truck handbook puts it at 4.2 litres which is 256cu in. Best check the stroke as it is not stated.

Tony, have you seen this website? ; http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/french.htm

[David Dunlop]

So let's just summarize now, Tony.

Several long trips out of town.
The appearance of a mysterious, large tank of bubbly, liquid in the back 40.
Sudden disappearance of said property owner.

Hmmm!

Have you remembered the new insurance policy on yourself, payable to the Estate?

Do keep us posted!


Cheers,


David

[Private_collector]

Hello Gents,

The cranks for the Froggy Flatheads are either 3.75 or 4.00 stroke. I want the 3.75 version, to match up with my rods, which are 7". The "btc" site is the one that had first put some of my fears to rest prior to arranging to look at the block. Just over a week ago I knew absolutely nothing about these engines, now after searching and reading information everywhere, I still know almost nothing! Once I get the block back home, I will make an attachment to bolt onto one lf the exhaust stud sets, so I can rotate it 360 degrees while working on it. In no haste to assemble, and have a couple more books on order, to read before I try anything. Slowly, slowly, catchy monkey!

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, the rods work with both cranks. It's the pistons that change.

[Private_collector]

OK, now I get it.

The pistons I will get with the block are STD size, 4 ring type, and will be for 3.75 crank. Thats what I have here, but won't be using. Now thai I actually understand the sizing bit, i'll be vigilant for getting (or more to the point, asking) for the right parts.

Thanks Lynn,

[Private_collector]

Last week, with the new block expected this weekend, I had sent the heads for machining. Got em back on Friday. One was already straight, the other needed attention. Now both are spot-on!

Went to get the block Saturday. Another 450km round trip, but WELL WORTH IT! First thing to do this morning was to remove the preservative layer. I will give it a second, and possibly third, go in the future. Some of the original metal debris from machining was evident, trapped in time beneath the cosmoline (or whatever the French had used). Mmmmmm, clean!!!

Did a test fitment of a number of external parts, with interesting results.
The intake manifold was a 100% perfect fit, as was the distributor backing plate (in later photo).

Oil pump idler and cam gear cover plate was too.

The heads are a perfect fit as well, BUT I will need to locate a longer stud bolt for the top centre of each head. I was aware of this need before I bought it, so it's not a shock, or a problem.


Cont'd...

[Private_collector]

Here's what I mean about the longer head stud needed. It goes in here. The threaded part is lower in the block. Between the machined surface and the thread, there is a water jacket passage. This must be one of the refinements to improve water flow. Without any krud in the block, it's easy to see (and feel with finger) how much space is allocated for water transfer and cooling.

The water pumps do fit, but will require an additional hole in the block to be eliminated. The hole is a cooling hole that must work with the 8BA pumps. I'll tap it and insert a threaded plug. The distributor plate is perfect fit. In my photo it looks like it's held on with the washers around pump bolts, but it's not. I just needed to take up some of the thread length of the old water pump bolts, because they were crappy thread further up near the head. I have a new full set of external hardware bolts. Don't want to open the packets this early though!

It took me over an hour to insert all of the new head studs (less 2 still needed). I'm glad I bought these. They are all either new, or NOS. The nuts are from MacsAuto.

This is where the govenor goes. Never seen one. Tempted to just make block-off plates for the openings not needed, but if I can actually get the original piece of machinery, that would be better. I assume one of the holes is for oil pressure sender, and two others are for oil in/out to filter???

[Keith Webb]

Such a work of art it almost seems a shame to spoil it by putting it together!

[Private_collector]

Topped off the day by finishing the exhaust manifolds.

They are now ready to install, but I won't yet. Am planning to make a metal piece off one side manifold bolts, so I can pivot the engine on it's stand. Not the trolley I currently move it around on, one yet to be bought. Many things are yet to be bought but I won't have the $$$ for much now, until I get tax done. Even then I may need to sell a kidney. Fairly low mileage one, in case anyone's interested.

[Private_collector]

Yeah, I know what you mean, Keith!

This engine will be more French than Canadian, when it's finished.
Hope it doesn't surrender at the first hill.
Still need the following parts:

French crank chaft.
French piston pins (different size to the ones I had bought several weeks ago )
French con rod bearings.
New cam shaft. Any country!

I ordered a new set of lifters last week. They are non-adjustable type. Can't go out of adjustment if there aint any!!!

[Private_collector]

At long last, the front end is finished (or very, very nearly). I have to order another brake cylinder bolt from Macs, THEN it's finished. Well, the wheel nuts were painted this morning, so they are only finger tight. Once torqued up, THEN it's finished. Oh, hold a minute, I have brushed one coat of paint on the bolts, so they will need another 2 before they're right, so..............THEN it's......well you get the idea!


Finally got the NOS lifters.


Can someone please tell me which of these emergency brake brackets is correct for Ford CMP? Neither came with the vehicle, both acquired since, so I have no idea which one to clean up.

[hrpearce]

Tony the bottom one is for the brake on the transfer case according to my MB-F1.

[Private_collector]

Thanks Robert.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, What is different about the crankshaft and the gudgeon pins?

[Private_collector]

The pins I had bought were either oversize OD, or there are at least two sizes. My set was too snug. The set yet to arrive are the correct OD. Not expecting to need to, I hadn't measured the pin size before I bought the first set.

The need for new crank is primarily due to the new piston rods, which have a locked individual bearing each rod, whereas the old one has lubrication holes for the old style rod bearings which were floating bearings of one pair for the two rods coming from each journal. Old crank = one oil hole per journal, New crank = 2 holes per journal. Use of the earlier crank with my 8BA rods would result in potential oil starvation to the rod bearings. Potentially a diabolical situation. Most of that I expect you would already know, and I write the above information more for clarity of others. As to what differences exist between Ford 8BA crank and the French ones, I am not aware of any physical differences, but the advantages of brand new crank VS old, shagged out one, is what I am thinking about. And for the French block, I might as well get the matching crank. Rumor has it that the materials were better quality anyway. That, and they are quite inexpensive at this time, with the best price found so far, being around the $200-$250 mark. That is price bought from USA. Shipping adds $$$ of course, which will always be the case regardless of which one I buy. Have not found anything comparable for sale new in Australia.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony I have sent an email. I still have many un answered questions about these seemingly simple engines.

[Private_collector]

Just bear in mind you have emailed someone even simpler than the engines!

[Private_collector]

Bought a good bumper yesterday. The bumper bracket attachment holes will have to be relocated because it's off a Chev. Compared with straightening one of my other ones, that's a piece of cake!

Also bought a driver side NOS tie rod end.

Also got what I believe to be a gallows bracket. Vastly diferent from mine though. Entirely different mounting setup.


The chap I bought these from also has a couple of boxes of handed wheel studs for sale. There are a box of L or R threads, with a box of 20 costing $100. He also has wheel nuts to suit, but I didn't check if there were L as well as the R nuts. If interested, send me a PM, and I willsend you a name and phone number.

[Grant Bowker]

I'm curious whether you considered making a new bumper. At least in Canada, the correct section of steel (for Chev bumpers) is still available.
Advantages of making new - straight, clean steel to work on, no need to fill in Chev holes and drill Ford holes, preserves the Chev bumper for others.
Disadvantages - not "vintage", might cost either more or less depending on how the Chev bumper was priced (collector or clear it off the property).
I helped Bob Carriere make a new Chev bumper and it wasn't difficult.

[Private_collector]

G'Day Grant,

Yes, there might be steel stock still available. Not yet checked beyond local suppliers, who can't help. Will still be a while before I am ready to add bumper to chassis, so who knows what may surface in the meantime.

At a farm auction I attended late last year, there were two 6 metre (20ft) lengths of aluminium channel which were an almost perfect match of bumper profile. From memory, there was a 5-6mm difference in height, that I wouldn't have been too worried about. We left before their lot number came up, but I have since fund out that they went for $600 for the pair. Ouch!

Considering the changes I am making to the engine, I could have easily overlooked aluminium for front bumper.

[Keith Webb]

I recall years ago when Tony Wheeler was looking for steel channel for a bumper the closest profile was 6" x 2" which was half an inch too deep.

[Keith Webb]

Also got what I believe to be a gallows bracket. Vastly diferent from mine though. Entirely different mounting setup.

Tony what you have is a LMG gallows mount from a Wireless Sigs van.

[Private_collector]

Cool!

Anyone have a good one for a 'normal' CMP that they wanna swap for this one?

[Private_collector]

In the past couple of weeks a very sad situation has been evolving. Last Thursday, my Brother underwent a radical resection for a malignant brain tumor. On Monday, Mother and I were informed by the neurosurgeon that the tumor had been examined since the operation, and was found to be a glioblastoma, one of if not the most agressive tumors. Knowing what it is, and despite the removal of the bulk of the tumor, my dear Brother has now been informed that the condition is fatal. He does not have very long to live now, and will only be going home from hospital for a brief time. The expectation is that he will be admitted to his local hospital in coming weeks, or possibly even days, and will have round the clock assistance until he passes away. Our 86yo Mother, and indeed myself, are absolutely shocked at the speed with which this has occured and we are heartbroken. With that in mind, I will not be attempting any further work on the truck for the forseeable future. It has no attraction to me now. While all this is unfolding, my priority is to assist my family to any extent that I am able.

I will not be continuing this restoration, nor making any postings for an undetermined period of time. There are a couple of MLU chaps that I am still attempting to find things for, and that will remain the case. I will contact those members when the goal has been achieved or if all avenues have been exhausted. Either way, I promise to get back to you.

There is no doubt in my mind that you all are wishing well for my Brother, and I thank you in advance and take that as read. There will only be one outcome with this dreadful circumstance, of that there is now no doubt.

Thankyou, and despite not being a religous man.........bless you all.

[Private_collector]

Hello one and all! As majority will know, the past month has seen me mostly absent, with bugger-all motivation. While things will never be the same for me, the lions share of the turmoil and acute heartache is subsiding.....slowly. I simply haven't had the time or ability to get much done until very recently. My Mother was up here last weekend, and she encouraged me to do a couple of the smaller jobs. So here goes...

A few weeks ago, I had come across a supplier who had brand new aluminium double pulley water pumps. They are heat treated to 'T-6', whatever that means exactly (I know it means they are stronger), and they have modern double sealed bearings inside. They also have a curved impellor, as opposed to the original straight type, meaning better water circulation and more efficient cooling. These water pumps are a direct replacement for the original ones. Although my block is a bastardised hybrid of 59A & 8BA, these new pumps are a perfect fit. There is an additional water hole coming out of the block, which will sit slightly above earlier style pumps, but it is of no consequence, as the other end of the channel lies under a portion of the head gaskets that does not have a water jacket hole. I will be sealing this channel with a suitable threaded plug or 'mouldable steel' material. This may not be required, because in theory the water cannot exit past the gasket, BUT theory doesn't always equate to practice, does it? Moving on.... The pair of water pumps are now painted and ready for installation. I have chosen NOT to paint the double pulleys. They were polished by me instead. The reason for this will become clear as you continue to read.

Since my tax return, I have been able to purchase/order some of the major parts I was still needing to assemble the new engine. "New" is by far the best description. I have come to the conclusion that I will be happier with using as many new (or modern) components as I can locate, for reasons of functionality as well longevity. At times, the hot rodder in me has come out as well. Best example of that would be the chucking of the old 97 carburetor, and substituting a 4 barrel Holley 4160 series in it's place!

On a more subtle note. The distributor has been disassembled, cleaned, rebushed, lubed, and treated to an electronic ignition system. It is still a 6v positive earth system, and apart from the two wires exiting the distributor body where the coil was, you can't see any external evidence of the change. I am assured that a better, stronger spark, will be the result of this change. Time will tell if that's correct, but the lack of ANY moving parts of the electronic module itself, and being an entirely sealed unit without breakers, is a very attractive proposition. A new 6v coil from Macsauto, and original looking but modern specs HT plug wires will complete the assembly.

So that's circulation and ignition taken care of.

The old generator won't be going back on. It has been replaced by a one wire 6v alternator (also positive ground).

There is a slight hitch with fit of the original twin belt pulley that also attaches the fan, but I have a fix in mind that will resolve the issue of fouling the fan blades of the alternator itself when the original pulley is spun on the alt. shaft. Ten seconds on a metal lathe will fix that!

Over the past 3 months, I have been scanning internet sites, doing searches on ebay, and generally taking notes on which companies offer the best value for money, so I could order the remaining components for the engine. Since mid July I have managed to dispose of over $3500, in exchange for new parts. As far as I am aware, everything has now been purchased.
Many items are yet to arrive, but the following items have been bought, in addition to the parts mentioned above.

* Eagle Cast Steel crankshaft, 4" stroke
* Egge piston set, Cast, STD bore, 4" stroke.
* Egge piston pins 3/4" OD.
* 3 & 3/16 bore, wide 4 ring piston ring set - Grant.
* '35-'48 crankshaft gear.
* Front crankshaft seal, modern, one piece (this replaces the old type 'rope' seal in 2 pieces)
* 1 set, complete engine gasket set, '39-'48. With copper head gaskets.
* 1 set, STD, main bearings '39-'48. Current Production.
* 1 set, STD, piston rod bearings '48-'53, locked type.
* 16x Johnston solid valve lifters, adjustable clearance.
* Pair, Adjuster wrenches, Johnston valve lifters.
* 1x oil pump idler gear, with bushing.
* 16x '37-'53, Autolite Spark Plugs.
* Ring gear set, flywheel. (This has already been installed by local engine shop.
* Distributor cap, '42-'48, Crab type.
* Distributor rotor arm, '42-'48 Crab type cap.

There may be other bits, but I don't recall them right now. Have realised that I also still need a new pressure plate and clutch, and a set of radiator tubes and hoses.

[motto]

Good to see you back Tony.

David

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Tony, Good to see you back.
No doubt this stuff will be giving you a certain amount of relief.
I see your wallet has been relieved as well.
The rumour mill suggests you might want to put a spare coil in your truck to back up the Macs coil. Another suggestion from the Fordbarn, is a New (not NOS) condensor from Napa rather than Macs. No personal experience or bitch, just my perception of the general feeling, on those two items.

[Little Jo]

Hi Tony

Good to see you back on deck again. I have missed following you posts. Keeping busy is the bust therapy and I am sure that is what your family would want you to do. Welcome back.

Cheers

Tony