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It is interesting that the armoured tank covers have a removable cap so the fuel can be drained from underneath. Three bolts and the cap is off. I had to fit captive nuts to both armoured bases to bolt the caps back on.
The right tank as I said was missing, so I had to modify the original left one into a right one. Not a big job?? Well not really. First I had to unsolder the filler cap and reposition it in the correct place up the other end so that the armoured lid would shut cleanly over it. Then I had to solder a patch over the hole left but removing the filler cap. Sounds easy doesn't it. That done, what to do about the drain underneath? It was in the wrong place for the removable armoured cap mentioned earlier. Well I cheated this time as I could not work that one out. I replaced the drain plug with a shorter one but the tank has to be removed to access it. Why did I choose to modify the original left one to be the right one? Well it had sat outside for many many years and had a good coating of rust building up inside it. With the filler cap out, the new hole drilled and the sender unit removed it gave me a chance to get at the rust. scan0364.jpg More Lynx geny etc 020.jpg The sender unit on this one was a bit ornery to get out. Two of the bolts ware sheared of but fortunately there was enough shank to get a pair of mole grips onto them. More Lynx geny etc 024.jpg More Lynx geny etc 051.jpg Here the right hand tank is floating in the molasses tank to get rid of the outside rust on the bottom of the tank. More Lynx geny etc 061.jpg The inside was a mess so I covered the holes and sank it into the molasses tank for a few weeks. I took it out a couple of times and after placing about 1kg. of square shaped nuts into the tank, rolled it around on the lawn for an hour or two then put it back into the molasses. I repeated that about 3 times and a lot of rust build up was removed. I left it floating in the molasses to clean the bottom outside and when I was happy with it I gave it a good rinse out. POR15 is my choice of tank sealer and after soldering on the patch and the filler cap, I sealed the sender unit hole and poured in them metal cleaner/degreaser followed by the metal prep and finally the sealer paint. I did that with both tanks and they should be good forever. Regards Rick
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1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member. |
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