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#24
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Quote:
Haven't tried that method with a brass bolt or copper tab but it sounds like it is definitely worth a try. I am sure it will have a lot more holding power if the bolt or tab has a reasonable size area. I will give it a try on the bench first. I like the idea too, that not a lot of heat or an open flame is used in soldering. I repaired a pinhole in the other tank on the top where the retainer strap had rubbed a hole in the tank similar to your method. Dimpled it slightly and filled it with JB Weld. Great stuff. At that time I didn't have a decent size electrical soldering iron and there was no way I wanted an open flame from a Bernz-O-Matic near a hole into a tank, even though the tank had been empty for years and washed our just prior to the repair. To do it again I would consider your method with the big electric soldering iron I now have. Anyway guys, this thread has been very helpful and all suggestions have been gratefully received. I, and many others, have a better idea of the issues of repairing a dent in an enclosed tank. I even enjoyed my magnetic experiment that didn't work. Just more info to add to the wealth of information and ideas out there. As Phil so rightly posted just be careful around fuel tanks with whatever repairs you do to it. Most of us know that but there is always someone perhaps new to auto repairs or restoration who doesn't realize the risks. Have a safe and Merry Christmas and I will continue on after the Holidays with trying to get that darn dent out! Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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