Otter LRC CM4647296 comes home

[Grant Bowker]

I think I'd be willing to give it a go for repair.
The obvious caution is to be at least 100% sure any gas fumes are gone before applying heat/flame to restore the solder joint(s) that opened up (or for any other reason). When I was doing my CMP tanks, I put a shop-vac to blow into the tanks for a couple of days out in the sun to warm and ventilate. I used the mark 1 nose as fume detector, do you know anyone who has access to combustible fume detectors? (Occupational safety, fire investigator, police/military bomb section etc.) There don't seem to be sharp creases - good news - gentle persuasion can work instead of needing brute force. If you aren't sure of safe soldering in your shop, you might be able to do the straightening and joint preparation and farm out the soldering to a radiator shop. One of the challenges will be to get to the corners of the tank to apply outward pressure if needed. One end looks as if it is enough de-soldered that it might be worth considering finishing removing the end cap to make it easier to restore the end cap and tank body and then reinstall the refurbished end.