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#1
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I have used the coil spring compressors as track jacks before, but often as not you end up bending them. The best rack jack is to get a surplus one from a M113 and grind down the hooks so they fit into the carrier track. There is incredible power in those track jacks. That way, when you do find an original track jack, you don't end up breaking the hooks off it (and they do break).
Be prepared to cut a few cork O rings for the sealing of the bearings. These are often cracked and shrunk so bad they have little usefullness left to them. I went with actual conventional seals on mine, but, besides being expensive, may have been a bit of overkill. |
#2
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me sweating to an oldie!
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Ralph Volkert UC 2Mk I* Upper Hull: CB 8075 Lower Hull: 8105 S/N: 9075 Date: Jun(est) 42 contract #: CDLV 213 1946 Willys Jeep 1974 Plymouth Road Runner 1987 Trans Am |
#3
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i love it when the track flops down, it gets the adrenelen running knowing its gonna hurt if you dont jump back fast enough
![]() dave d
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44 GPW, 43 MB, 42 trailer, 43 cckw 44 MORRIS C8, M-3A1 SCOUT CAR 41 U/C, 42 U/C x 2, 44 U/C 42 6LB GUN and the list keeps growing, and growing.... i need help LOL |
#4
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Well this weekend was spent freeing up rusted bolts. Most went "easily:
![]() ![]() One thing I have learned so far...I need much bigger wrenches than what I had in my tool box to date!
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Ralph Volkert UC 2Mk I* Upper Hull: CB 8075 Lower Hull: 8105 S/N: 9075 Date: Jun(est) 42 contract #: CDLV 213 1946 Willys Jeep 1974 Plymouth Road Runner 1987 Trans Am |
#5
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i have done it 2 ways....
1 scor the nuts and chisel the nut in half without damaging the threads on the bolt. then replace the bolt. you can make a cage bolt with a pice of stock and a grinder. 2 cut the darn thing off with a angle grinder and make a new bolt with the base of the old one. i would not even think of useing the old nuts again. also if you have a MK I carrier just remember that some parts out there from MK II will NOT fit on your carrier. keep that in mind when you are out there buying parts. removing the bolts is going to be the fun part. dave
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44 GPW, 43 MB, 42 trailer, 43 cckw 44 MORRIS C8, M-3A1 SCOUT CAR 41 U/C, 42 U/C x 2, 44 U/C 42 6LB GUN and the list keeps growing, and growing.... i need help LOL |
#6
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Charlie Fitton recommends heating the nuts 3 times. Each time heat until cherry red and let cool. I have yet to try it but he swears by it and said they came right off. I wouldn't recommend cutting them off unless you have NOS ones to replace with. One thing I learned with the UC resto is don't cut off original stuff unless you have a replacement at hand. The stuff is hard to find.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#7
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i agree with that statement but like the break links that i had remade some items on carriers are just too stressed out. of the 12 or so front bolts i have removed about 4 or 5 have snapped clean off, and i would not want that to happen coming off a trailer or going into a ditch.
on the break links of the 8 used ones i have inspected 4 of them were cracked and had to be replaced. lots of people tont think about them till they break and you can only make left or right turns. dave
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44 GPW, 43 MB, 42 trailer, 43 cckw 44 MORRIS C8, M-3A1 SCOUT CAR 41 U/C, 42 U/C x 2, 44 U/C 42 6LB GUN and the list keeps growing, and growing.... i need help LOL |
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