Work on My F8, No. 11

[Jim Price]

Mike:
Do you (or any other reader of this message) know if there's any difference in size between the Chevrolet and Ford tanks? The tank that came with my F8 measures 32" long by 12" wide by 10" high.

Regards,
Jim

[peter simundson]

It's a new old stock original. He wants $250 for it. I'll measure it Friday.
I think al ww2 tanks were the same size but the spouts were different.
Early Fords had that big brass piece on top.

Peter S

[Jim Price]

Peter:
Will look forward to hearing from you further on the measurements.

Regards,
Jim
PS Ask the seller to advise the cost to ship to the US.

[peter simundson]

It is a new old stock tank all covered in a black preservative.
The size is 32 x 12 x 10. It has a Ford sending unit.
Available for $250.00. Owner will ship however you want but not prepaid .

Rare tank. Your call.

[Jim Price]

Peter:
Please advise the seller to pick the most convenient method for him to ship the tank to the US and then advise me what the shipping charges would be.

Thanks!
Jim

[Jim Price]

Am experiencing the doldrums; work has slowed due to an injured back and a sick child. My college helper's back pain and my other helper's sick child caused a loss of 6 man-days of work this week so work was limited the following:

Began resto of the steering wheel. (Will show pictures of the progress on the next post.) Am using a two-part epoxy which has set up and is filling in all the old cracks nicely.

Picked up a rebuild kit for the fuel pump and rebuilt it.

Picked up the windshield frame pieces from the metal shop. Although the long top piece is a bit warped (They were cut from a piece of 1/2" by 1" rectangular steel pipe.), with some "training" it should be ok for rebuilding the frame.

Gave the oil pan a first cost of Ford engine green paint. Looks great!

Began painting the spark plug wire tubes and the oil filter tank with some black engine paint. Will finish them tomorrow. (Have had to get up early in the morning to do the painting as the temps in the daytime cause the paint to turn to powder as it hits the piece being painted!)

Don't know if I mentioned this earlier but we're installing a 12 volt, negative ground system in the truck. Purchased a new starter and alternator for that system as well as a Mallory electronic ignition and coil. (Purists take heart; this system will be hardly noticeable! Wellll, maybe the alternator will be a give-away...... )

Had the winning bid on a NOS Ford Script 94 carburetor Model 91-99; it should arrive this coming week.

Got lucky and found an original bracket for the coil as well as an original Ford oil bath air filter (for the 1940 engine), both in almost mint condition.

Didn't like the looks of the water pumps after we had them cleaned in preparation for painting so purchased two new ones with bearings.

Picked up the new springs (all four of them!) and associated parts late this afternoon. Turned out that none of the original ones were fit enough to be re-arched. Will be taking them to the painter on Monday. Besides the lost time, not having these springs has also slowed the pace of our work. Didn't figure on needing to have 4 all new ones built!

Removed and cleaned the oil pump screen and pump itself and then reinstalled it.

After cleaing and spraying the underneath side of the engine with some lithium grease, bolted on the oil pan in preparation for cleaning off the red paint and repainting the rest of the engine with the Ford engine green paint. Should be able to get to that job early next week.

That's all for now!

Regards,
Jim

[Jim Price]

Bob, my welder and engine techie, came over on Day 60 and the two of us discussed the cooling system. Determined that the crankshaft location for the fan was much too low on the engine and that it would need to bolted to the alternator.

Not a problem said I; I'll order a new pulley with the necessary bolt holes and we'll be on our way! Got to looking at the pictures of the alternator I'd ordered (but has yet to arrive) and noticed immediately that the pulley on it was much smaller in diameter and the larger one I intended to order was much larger thus would result in a slower turning alternator.....

So. I determined that I needed to talk to a flathead expert at Speedway Motors, Nebraska and did so today. Much to my dismay, not only was my concern about the larger pulley on target but that alternators are not generally built strong enough to support a fan.

So, I'm back to square one with the need to have a generator that has a bearing supported shaft and an alternator that's on its way that cannot be relied upon for any regular use when a fan is mounted on it. Will have to find a 12 volt one somewhere!

Ordered a manual titled "The Official 12 Volt Conversion Guide" so as not to continue wandering around in a wasteland of ignorance.... Nothing like getting some timely direction .....

Ordered a supressive core wire spark plug kit for use with the electronic ignition. One needs this type of wire so as to not interfer with the operation of this type of ignition.

Took Day 61 off being Sunday.

Got up early this morning and gave the fan a coat of paint.

Today all were on the job and Bob began wire brushing off the engine in preparation for painting it. See Bob at work below.

Dylan, my college guy, is back on the job and continued work on the steering wheel resto. The second picture is of him hard at work.

I took all the springs and accessories over to the media blaster and spoke to the painter when I did; both advised that I should have everything back by this coming Friday.

It reaching 111 F by noon today, we stopped work at 1 PM.

Regards,
Jim

[cletrac (RIP)]

Jim, why not use the car style fan that bolts onto the intake manifold separate from the generator and then mount the alternator to one side?

[Mike K]

Hi Jim

I really dont see why or how the 12v system is going to be a huge benefit in the long run.... The later 6v system with the crab distributor and stand alone coil is quite OK and reliable. It's only the divers bell distributor ( up to 1941 ? ) that gave the problems and also gave Ford V8's a bad reputation with ignition breakdowns.

I guess a lot depends on what your plans are .. how many miles per year is it being used and night time driving . In terms of aftermarket accessories , yes, 12v is the way to go. Are you installing halogen headlamps ? Sounds like your planning a high power system with that alternator .

6V components are around, motorbike shops and VW specialists are good places for 6v flasher cans and other bits . Mike

[Radek]

Hi Jim

what material use your friend for repaire the stearing wheal. I have broukened it on my 2nd Austin K30.
Thanks Radek

[Jim Price]

Mike:
My engine came with the "diver's bell" distributor which needed to be replaced. I considered going to a "crab" style but the location of the distributor led me to decide to install an electronic 12 volt system. The ease of adjustment as well as the efficiency with which this Mallory system performs was the deciding factor. By the way, it looks quite similar to the "crab" style.

As for the 12 volt system, it's just easier to get electical parts!

I do plan to drive it at night to and from and during WWII reenactments and parades but will not install halogen lights. As far as other aftermarket goodies are concerned, I have no plans whatsoever to install any thing of that nature. I fully intend that the outward appearance of the F 8 will remain the same as it was originally.

Regards,
Jim

[Jim Price]

David:
I hadn't thought of that arrangement and will keep it in mind. Did some preliminary measuring today and am not sure that it'd work. However, will see once the engine is in place on the frame.

Regards,
Jim