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#1
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Heres some pics. The resistor is thewhite ceramic on the left side (close up)
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#2
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Hi Lynn
Thanks for that. It is quite different from the one on my panel. I'll do some hunting and see what I can find. Cheers Darryl |
#3
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They come in various forms. You will see its on a board with the cutout.
these were fitted to all ford v8s with the football distributor. I have seen them with a fuse only(and resistor of course) The other thing you can do, is buy an adaptor, that allows you to fit a standard coil (6volt), that does away with the resistor.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#4
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...were also used on the ford tractors and such, they're pennies a pound through an after-market parts supplier.
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Charles Fitton Maryhill On., Canada too many carriers too many rovers not enough time. (and now a BSA...) (and now a Triumph TRW...) |
#5
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With those 6 Volt systems, running a 4.5 Volt coil, make sure your regulator voltage setting is not set too high.. it's best set at around 7.3 Volts or so... Higher voltage = more current = more heat in that resistor.
My 1941 11d truck had one of the original Ford ceramic resistors and it got very hot , causing loss of voltage at the coil.. I reduced the regulator setting to about 7.3V ( it was up at about 8V ) and the problem was not as bad, although it did continue playing up to a degree and I never really solved it - despite trying a NOS coil and various resistors. As Lynn said, some people use an adapter, do away with the 4.5 coil system and mount a 6v coil away from the distributor/motor altogether ....
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#6
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Gidday all,
Thanks for the replies. I actually acquired an ‘official’ 6 volt resistor today and fitted it into the system. Interestingly this time, the voltage at the coil side of the resistor was 2.6 volts – up from the 1.9 volts with the previous resistor. The voltage on the other side of the resistor is 6.4 volts. It also measures 2.6 volts at the coil with this resistor in place. Not the 4.2 volts I would have expected though with the change in resistor. Adding in the ‘hotwire’ back in from the inspection lamp switch brings the voltage back up to 4.2 volts at the coil. Strange! I guess it is possible this resistor that I put in is faulty and it has stepped the voltage down too far. I should have another resistor to try by the weekend, to confirm one way or the other. Mike – I’m interested in the voltage regulator setting you mentioned. If that was wrong, would that not affect the voltage going into the resistor? Like you say, fitting the 6 volt coil might save me time in the end but I’m at the point now where I’d like to find out the cause of this. Cheers Darryl |
#7
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Gidday,
Just out of interest I left the new resistor in place, removed the 'hotwire' and fitted the instrument panel back into place. I flicked the ignition switch on, applied full choke and turned the key and within a split second the engine fired into life. That would be the quickest it has ever started for me. Voltage at the coil was 2.65volts on start up and then lowered to about 1.5 volts as the engine warmed up. I would have thought this would need to be higher for a 4.2 volt coil, but maybe not. I'll try another resistor and keep monitoring things and see how that goes. I'll also try another voltmeter to make sure I am not getting false readings. Cheers Darryl |
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