Looking for Canadian M151A2 Pictures....

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by rob love

2 to 3 years is optimum, but if you stir it long enough, even 10 year old paint will be fine.
One thing to watch out for is if the paint is frozen, it will shine too much.

Thanks Rob,

I guess the challenge now is to find a couple of cans that havn't been opened at some point and then tossed in a paint locker for a half dozen years.

[Phil Waterman]

I must admit to having reactivated some very old military paint by adding the proper thinner/reducer and mixing like hell. Yup I've even used a blender. While I have never painted a vehicle with it I have done touch up and new parts with pretty good results. The blender works really good on turning that lump of flattening compound into use-able compound again.

Obviously what you are looking to do is restore the proper viscosity and to strain out any lumps.

Cheers

[rob love]

Originally Posted by armybuck041

Thanks Rob,

I guess the challenge now is to find a couple of cans that havn't been opened at some point and then tossed in a paint locker for a half dozen years.

Are you looking at cans of the old IRR paint? The last NSNs for the stuff was in the range of 8010-21-880-9629, 9630 and 9650. If your NSN on the can is different, watch if you are using the newer CARC paint as it has some very serious health implications when sprayed. If brushed on it is OK, but will be quite shiny. Also, the CARC paints are not matches to the Cdn colour scheme.

There was an interim Cdn Carc in the 8010-21-980 range if I recall, but it did not see widespread issue, and the eventual CARC paint should have an American NSN, which is in the 8010-01- NSN range. All these numbers are from memory mind you, so take them with a grain of salt.

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by rob love

Are you looking at cans of the old IRR paint? The last NSNs for the stuff was in the range of 8010-21-880-9629, 9630 and 9650. If your NSN on the can is different, watch if you are using the newer CARC paint as it has some very serious health implications when sprayed. If brushed on it is OK, but will be quite shiny. Also, the CARC paints are not matches to the Cdn colour scheme.

There was an interim Cdn Carc in the 8010-21-980 range if I recall, but it did not see widespread issue, and the eventual CARC paint should have an American NSN, which is in the 8010-01- NSN range. All these numbers are from memory mind you, so take them with a grain of salt.

The only paint I remember seeing in the Paint Lockers at work was definately the IRR paint. Specifically "Forest Green" and "Black". This would probably make it very old by now. Finding some would be pretty easy, finding some that is unopened will be the real challenge.

I don't ever recall seeing any CARC kicking around at work. Seems to me that was all held by 2nd Line and so forth. As our stuff came in refurbed in CARC, we no longer touched it up, although it liked to peel off in big chips.

Who says the memory is the first thing to go eh Rob

[rob love]

There were plenty of messages regarding limiting who could work with the CARC. Minor touchups were allowed by first line users, but complete paint jobs were a second line function, unless you happened to have a first line unit with a full paint booth and full air supplied body suits.

The two colors you list are the easy ones to find. It is the olive drab which is the toughest to find for some reason. If you had to, head to that Kingston surplus store I mentioned and buy a gallon of their non-skid stuff. Filter out the pebbles and spray away. At least you will have the correct shade of olive. If I had a way of getting it back to here, I would have bought the 3 cans I saw.

[super dave]

I would be very interested in the color codes as well having to do a few projects my self, keep us posted.

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by rob love

There were plenty of messages regarding limiting who could work with the CARC. Minor touchups were allowed by first line users, but complete paint jobs were a second line function, unless you happened to have a first line unit with a full paint booth and full air supplied body suits.

The two colors you list are the easy ones to find. It is the olive drab which is the toughest to find for some reason. If you had to, head to that Kingston surplus store I mentioned and buy a gallon of their non-skid stuff. Filter out the pebbles and spray away. At least you will have the correct shade of olive. If I had a way of getting it back to here, I would have bought the 3 cans I saw.

You know how it is, someone probably mentioned CARC and Danger in the same paragraph and the usual chain of command paranoia set in.

I may check out that Surplus Store. What was the name of it, and how much was he asking for it?

On another note, after a little cleaning of fuel lines etc, I flashed up Mike McKinleys MUTT a few minutes ago. Runs like a damn charm. Very smooth idle all things considered. Kinda wish I had plates for it, as I would have taken it around the block.

[rob love]

I don't remember the name of the surplus store, but it was on the main road through town, princess ave if I recall. The person operating the store mentioned there was a brothel operating upstairs, and to explain to the cab driver which part of the building the 3 of us were in.
I didn't notice the price (of the paint of course) either.

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by rob love

I don't remember the name of the surplus store, but it was on the main road through town, princess ave if I recall. The person operating the store mentioned there was a brothel operating upstairs, and to explain to the cab driver which part of the building the 3 of us were in.
I didn't notice the price (of the paint of course) either.

Sounds like it should be easy to find

I'll have to check them out.

Thought i'd post up some pics and give an update of where i'm at now.

Basically, Mikes MUTT will be donating its complete Power Pack, ROPS and a bunch of other essentials to the Red Deer Tub Donor Jeep. I've left it completely intact for now and gave it a some fresh Spark Plugs and Wires, a complete Carb Re-Re, Fuel System Cleaning, Valve Adjustment and run the Engine daily for at least 15 minutes to keep everything lubed and the charging system topped up. My hopes are that if something is going to spring a leak, better to happen now than after I transfer it over to the Red Deer MUTT. One the Tub is all fixed up, i'll "Pull the Pack" and get it all cleaned up and ready for the transfer.

I started pulling the Red Deer Tub Donor MUTT apart scouring it for Data, Serial Numbers and anything else I could find on it. I'm still impressed with the lack of a rust problem except for a portion above the Pintle Hook and predictably the Battery Box Floor. Otherwise everything else is completely solid. My original plan was to install an AM General Underbody Corrosion Repair Kit, but it turns out that it would be un-neccessary.

Biggest problem with it was the "Booty-Fab" manner that it was Re-Militarized and the abuse it took while in service. Although it doesn't have any serious body damage, there isn't a panel on it that doesn't have some kind of a dent. Lots of panel beating with Wood Blocks and a Dolly. The Re-Weld job will have to be completely removed and Re-re-welded with some proper fishplating materials and techniques. I've ordered a new Battery Box Floor, Passenger Seat Bulkhead and Tunnel Cover rather than mess around.

Pics to follow....