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  #1  
Old 03-02-09, 16:13
Tony Smith's Avatar
Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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A 12v resistor coil actually runs on about 8.6v, while the original Ford 6v coils have an ignition resistor and run on around 4.6v. Running a resistor coil without a resistor will burn out the points. Running a 6v coil in a 12v resistor system will give too much voltage at the points and burn them out quickly, and may even damage the coil. A points distributor will work fine irrespective of the operating voltage, provided the correct coil is used to prevent burnt points, ie 12v w/o resistor, 12v Res coil w/ resistor, 6v coil w/o resistor or 6v Res coil w/ resistor. Mention was made above to the coil adapter because that arrangement will give a wider range of coil choices.

There a couple of electronic conversions for the "Crab" style distributor (as well as whole new electronic dizzys), but I'm not aware of any for the "Diver's Helmet" style. The electronic units only work on 12v (not 6v), but there are also Hall Effect and LED triggered units that COULD be made to work on 6v if you were really keen.
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Old 03-02-09, 19:37
rossbart rossbart is offline
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Tony,

Thanks for the response. I need a bit more help knowing what you mean by resistor coil. I guess, in effect, I want to upgrade (and simplify) my ignition as much as possible for the very fact that I am not an electrical expert and function and simplicity and reliability mean more to me than originality. For this reason, I am even considering upgrading my generator to the following internally regulated piece in order to eliminate the external regulator as being a potential problem:

http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...rGENbackLg.jpg

http://www.carparts.com/autoparts/It...D:100000357735

But, as an "electically challenged" tinkerer I am not sure what I would need to do about the coil. Are you saying that there are 12 volt coils that are internally resisted down to where they will work with the flathead points distributor? If so, can you give me a recommendation for the setup I have? It's still a positive ground but a 12v battery, the above generator, original 6v starter and factory distributor? I am not worried about any other 6v items as my lights, guages, etc. are all converted to 12v already.

In recognition of your closing comment, attached are some photos of the distributor that I have. Hope the pics are clear enough for you to tell what kind I have. The coil is (as you can see) remote and not integral as I have heard some mention.

Thanks so much for your help,
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg UC Distributor #1.jpg (41.3 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg UC Distributor #2.jpg (43.9 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg UC Distributor #3.jpg (38.5 KB, 74 views)
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  #3  
Old 03-02-09, 23:46
Tony Smith's Avatar
Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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Your distributor will work on 12v and does not need to be "resisted down" to work with a 12v coil. Any coil you select does, however, need to be wired in an appropriate system with or without a resistor to match the coil. Examples of coils can be seen Here for Lucas. Speak to an Auto Parts shop and they can suggest a proper set up. A coil with resistor can provide better starting IF wired up correctly, but you might need an Auto Electrician's assistance to do that.

From what I can see of your distributor, it looks to be a British type fitted to Ford Pilot cars and Thames Trader trucks. Are you in the UK?
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Old 04-02-09, 00:33
George McKenzie George McKenzie is offline
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Default 6v-12v carrier

My friend Jim Debock converted his mk1 to 12v .He used a Mercury starter as it has a little more power .He also changed his generater to 12v You would never know to look at it that it was change . The motor puts out 110 hp that you wouldn't know except when you drive it .It moves much better with the extra power . Jim tells me that he has not been able to log in to this forum .Too bad as he has done some great reastorations and is very knowlageable .He is building a Windsor carrier now . George
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Old 04-02-09, 11:39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George McKenzie View Post
My friend Jim Debock converted his mk1 to 12v .He used a Mercury starter as it has a little more power .He also changed his generater to 12v You would never know to look at it that it was change . The motor puts out 110 hp that you wouldn't know except when you drive it .It moves much better with the extra power . Jim tells me that he has not been able to log in to this forum .Too bad as he has done some great reastorations and is very knowlageable .He is building a Windsor carrier now . George
George,

Tell Jim to email me to reset his password if he can't do it himself...
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  #6  
Old 04-02-09, 00:57
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Ross,
I went the 12 volt route on my F8 and am quite satisfied with the results. I am still using the 6 volt starter. If you don't turn it over for any length of time, it will work just fine.

As for the distributor, it should work just fine in the 12 volt mode. However, if you want an electronic system, Mallory has several different ones for early Ford/Mercury engines.
There's a booklet out on US eBay for 6 to 12 volt conversions. I bouth it and it was quite helpful.

Best of luck!

Regards,
Jim
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  #7  
Old 04-02-09, 06:14
rossbart rossbart is offline
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Actually, I am in Oklahoma USA. Just purchased this carrier. It was in Northern Illinois but I understand it had been in Wisconsin previously. I just picked it up over the weekend and was trying to size up what I had bought sight unseen. It would start 'okay' but not great but just didn't seem to have any power. I noted that it had a 12v battery and original 'looking' generator. Wasn't sure about regulator or coil. But, I noticed that after literally a minute of runtime that the coil was super hot. I checked the voltage at battery (which was around 12v) and at the coil which was, also, about 12 volts. I guessed that it was a 6v coil and wondered if it needed a resistor. Not finding one I just tried wiring one in and with the resistor the voltage at the coil dropped to 6 volts, the coil stopped being hot and the carrier runs totally different.

I think I may have fixed it. Replacing the coil would probably be a good idea still as I have no idea how old it is or how hot it's been. But, for right now it seems to be better.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Ross
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  #8  
Old 04-02-09, 11:42
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Tony

1. No. its not the british distributor, its the third type dizzy(latest)and
2. its the capacitance of the condenser, that dictates whether your points burn out. the condenser needs to match the coil (what ever voltage it happens to be) If the capacitance of the condenser is too high, or too low (measured in micro farads) metal transfers from one contact to the other.Have you noticed how 6 volt systems seem to have large condensers, and 12volt systems, have small ones?

the main purpose of a resistor coil(or ballast resistor coil) is for ease of starting. for example a car that runs a 12volt system, with a ballast coil feeds its primary ignition system though the ballast resistor, reducing the voltage to around nine volts (essentially a 9 volt coil) When the key is in the start(cranking) position, the coil is fed directly with the full 12 volts, giving the spark a boost. when the key returns to the run position, the coil is once again fed 9 volts, having been dropped from 12volts, by the resistor.
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  #9  
Old 04-02-09, 13:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Eades View Post
1. No. its not the british distributor, its the third type dizzy(latest)I think you might be right, Lynn. Ross' pics weren't too clear.

the main purpose of a resistor coil.... When the key is in the start(cranking) position, the coil is fed directly with the full 12 volts, giving the spark a boost. when the key returns to the run position, the coil is once again fed 9 volts, having been dropped from 12volts, by the resistor.
Actually, when the key is in the cranking position, the Starter draws current and the Batt voltage drops well below 12v, down to around voltage the coil operates on. If this was run through the resistor, the coil would be getting insufficient voltage.
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  #10  
Old 06-02-09, 06:03
rossbart rossbart is offline
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One more quick question:

I am not familiar with a positive ground system - this is my first. I appear to have everything running 12 volt (except coil which is resisted down to 6 volts. I want to add some 12 volt electric guages in this interim time so I can monitor water temp, oil pressure, etc.. On a positive ground system do I need to wire everything in reverse of what I'm used to with automotive and 12 volt negative ground? In other words, on the guages, do I need to ground the positive wire to chassis and the black wire to the battery negative circuit with an inline fuse on the battery negative circuit?

I would assume so but am certain that there is a vast storehouse of knowledge here that I'd like the benefit. Thanks for any help to the new carrier owner.

ROss
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