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#1
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The 6310 bearing has a 50mm centre ID, but is 1/8 the price of the 6408, so we will probably get a set of those for the price of one 6408 and make new stub axles (which we have to do anyway) for the trolley. See ebay #320249498440 Are you saying that the basic wheel is the same, and that you can swap plain and ball bearings between them? Peter
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email: diesel@easynet.co.uk http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk Last edited by listerdiesel; 22-03-09 at 11:13. |
#2
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Yes, the basic wheel is the same, even the seailings are the same, to convert it to the ball bearings you just need the bearings and the spacer. Hendrik
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Ford F15A Chevrolet C60S-brkd-5 (4) Carrier MK 1 Willys MB Austin K2 ATV Welbike MK I Volvo L475 |
#3
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Hi Pete,
I have 4 very good blasted T16 wheels, same size as the wheels you have but with curved spokes. The rubber is near new still showing the moulding marks. Fancy a trade? Shaun |
#4
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Can I confirm please how you get the bearings out of Carrier Wheels as I am about to attempt it myself.
Will they just push all the way through from one side or is there a retaining rib in the center. |
#5
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You need a decent drift, about 1" diameter of good quality steel or dural. Move the central spacer over to one side, then you can knock the centre of the far bearing out, which also pushes out the seal carrier plate. You need to make sure that the centre and balls fall clear, and catch them! I used a dural blank to protect the centre bearing parts, even though they were scrap. Turn over and repeat for the other side. The you'll have just the outers in place, the central spacer would have fallen out already. Locate the drift against the edge of the outer that is showing, and give it a whack, the go to the opposite side of that same outer and repeat. You can go all round with tapping, but I always find that a decent knock each side, repeated, will shift it a large enough distance each time. Make sure that the bearing comes out more or less square, don't overdo it on one side as it will jam, it MUST come out square! Repeat for the other side. Ours were red rusty inside, but all the parts knocked out with no dramas at all. Time taken was less than an hour. The seal housings appear to be cast iron, and are best pushed out with the centre of the bearing, it is almost impossible to get out otherwise. Peter
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email: diesel@easynet.co.uk http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk |
#6
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However I will have the set of Windsor Carrier wheels that I had originally. Rubber wasn't too good though. If the curved spokes are the problem, I can swap the Windsor wheels if that would help? Post a picture so I can see what they look like, the engine won't mind what they are.... ![]() Peter
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email: diesel@easynet.co.uk http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk |
#7
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Hi Pete,
Windsor wheels are no good for me, my carrier will run on the T16 wheels but windsor. Cheers Shaun |
#8
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Peter
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email: diesel@easynet.co.uk http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk |
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