C8 progress in Texas

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
Finally had a weekend to devote to the C8. Put the time to good use by test-fitting my 235 and a transmission to make sure everything was OK before painting the frame.
Both my donor 4-speed crash boxes turned out to be worn completely out, so resorted to Plan B:
Installed a six cylinder bellhousing from a '60 through '62 Chev truck which has the clutch fork exiting the right-hand side. Now I can use my stock C8 clutch linkage with a bellhousing that accepts the later model GM manual transmissions. Made up a couple of adapters to mount it so not to modify the original C8 crossmember.
Was then able to install a General Motors SM 420 4-speed transmission. First is the ultra-low "granny" gear that I will probably never use, but it now gives me three synchronized foreward gears to work with.
Next weekend I will tear it all back apart to prepare the frame for paint!
Regards, David

[Bob Carriere]

HI David

Do you happen to have the part number for that particular 1960 / 62 bell housing.....

I had considered the same arrangement with a C15A....but.... the modern 4 speed tranny and bellhousing left too little room between the transfer case and the tranny to properly connect with a short driveshaft. Moving the T case bad was not an option I wanted to exercise.

Fortunately for you the C8 lends itself to the conversion you did.

Bob C.

[David DeWeese]

Hi Bob,
The bellhousing is a used one I pulled out of a 1960 Chev 1/2 ton. It had a hydraulic slave cylinder mounted to the right hand side. Had one of the 3-speed column shift transmissions behind it. Uses a longer clutch fork also.
A friend has a factory parts manual for this model, so I'll try to get parts numbers for you.
Thanks, David

[maple_leaf_eh]

I wouldn't expect too many North American vehicles have clutching parts coming out the right side. All our vehicles are left-seat drive. Why would Detroit choose to put it on the right at all? Column shifter linkages ... ?

[David DeWeese]

Hi Terry,
Was wondering the same thing myself. The earlier GM trucks had the same transmission and column shift linkage, but kept the left hand clutch fork location. Since they went to the hydraulic slave cylinder that year, maybe they were concerned about exhaust temperatures.
Thanks, David

[Bob Carriere]

HI Terry / David

The change over was common in North America in the early sixties and I believe originated with the necessity/simplification of operating a clutch system for van type with a semi cabover condfiguration. Brake pedals had already changed over a decade before from solid linkage through the floor to a firewall mounted pedal attched directly to the master cylinder in the engine compartment.

The simplicity (until you have to bleed the darn system) of the hydraulic clutch linkage, allowed them to instal it on the right hand side. Once configured for vans the same concept was kept for pick up trucks.... not sure about the heavier Chev/GMC model. With the advant of automatic and electronically controlled transmission.... mechanical linkages are a thing of the past.

I need the part # to see if I can track one in our neighbourhood for possible future use....

BooBee

[David DeWeese]

Bob,
The factory parts list I spoke of last weekend still hasn't surfaced yet. Will casting numbers do? Found them today under the transmission when I pulled it. Forgot to write them down, but will get them if they will work for you.

Got the frame painted today and motor went in for good. Used the Gillispie paint that worked well for me in the past. Got four gallons for $100 with no haz-mat fees or shipping by picking the paint up directly from Rapco. They are only a little over an hour away from me, plus love to go there and browse all their neat stuff in the yard.
What do you guys think about the color?
Thanks, David

[David DeWeese]

Walked around the truck all week, and was extremely dissatisfied with the color I chose. Should have searched the forum before committing to a paint color in the first place. Had a couple of gallons of the FS 20260 mixed, and blew on a couple of coats today. I like it a lot better!
Got all my front brake lines sorted out also, so was a fairly good day in all.
Thanks, David

[aj.lec]

Looking good David

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
Another productive weekend as I was able to straighten the front bumper and the "D" ring tow hooks were freed up and installed. A major part of the cab assembly was also put back in place for good. Drivetrain received a new clutch and transmission went in for last time. Fit floor plates to check how new transmission would fit. Only a minor trim on the rear and one side is needed for clearance.
Sorted through my engine cover sheetmetal to see what I have. Does anyone have a photo of the transmission and emergency brake lever cover? Mine is missing.

Thanks, David

[aj.lec]

Here is a couple of pictures
If you like i can measure one up and post the dimensions to make one

[aj.lec]

try this

[David DeWeese]

Thanks a million Andrew! That will certainly take out the guesswork on the cover! May have to stretch the dimensions on the rear and left side a little to fit the new hole, but not by much.
Thanks again! David

[Bob Carriere]

Looks like the same would fit my cab 11 C15a...... I made a copy of your sketch and will compare to my two rusted hulks....... your sketch should save us some fiddling around.....

Some CMP users have used a square of grey foam to serve as a gasket for the gear shift lever..... why was there never anything avaialble for the various CMP.... even a later service retro fit booth of some sort...?

Boob

[aj.lec]

No worries
Hope it helps
It seems to fit all the cab 12 models i have so would imagine it should fit cab11 models also ?

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David DeWeese

Hi,
Another productive weekend as I was able to straighten the front bumper and the "D" ring tow hooks were freed up and installed. A major part of the cab assembly was also put back in place for good. Drivetrain received a new clutch and transmission went in for last time. Fit floor plates to check how new transmission would fit. Only a minor trim on the rear and one side is needed for clearance.
Sorted through my engine cover sheetmetal to see what I have. Does anyone have a photo of the transmission and emergency brake lever cover? Mine is missing.

Thanks, David

David.
Beautiful job on the truck...That checkerplate is the very early type and rare and unavailable today..I believe it is called "Bar and dot" checkerplate..
At least that is what I call it..
Keep up the great job..

[David DeWeese]

Thanks Alex,
Had some real reservations about cutting the plate to fit the transmission, but it has to be done. The trans cover will hide it. Will make one clean cut with the plasma cutter on the small piece I have to remove, then store the piece back if anyone ever wants to replace it.
Thanks, David

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Looks like the same would fit my cab 11 C15a...... I made a copy of your sketch and will compare to my two rusted hulks....... your sketch should save us some fiddling around.....

Some CMP users have used a square of grey foam to serve as a gasket for the gear shift lever..... why was there never anything avaialble for the various CMP.... even a later service retro fit booth of some sort...?

Boob

Hi Bob

I've found evidence of piece of 1/2 to 3/4 inch think black rubber foam under the steel cover and around the shift tower on two of my trucks. Will have to check the photos to see if I have a picture.

Cheers Phil

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David DeWeese

Thanks Alex,
Had some real reservations about cutting the plate to fit the transmission, but it has to be done. The trans cover will hide it. Will make one clean cut with the plasma cutter on the small piece I have to remove, then store the piece back if anyone ever wants to replace it.
Thanks, David

I don't know if "Conservative" is a bad word in Texas But conserving the little bits of removed plate is a true sign of a real restorer..
I know that I wouldn't call you a Liberal...That is a bad word up here in Canada..so would probably get me shot in Texas,..at least roped and dragged..
Keep up the excellent work and the ongoing restoration reports with pictures..

[Phil Waterman]

David and Alex - you are both correct saving little bits of steel cut from a project truck is conservation - my comment is take a magic marker or one of those paint pens and write what it is on the part. I was fortunate in that the first owner of my HUP had saved every part that was removed and threw them in a big wooden box or in the big box under the middle seat. I was luck in that the contents of the seat box and wooden box were still with the truck when I got it. But it took forever to figure out where some of the parts went.

I've tried to save all the bits particularly from my Pattern 12 which I've replaced repaired and re-fabricated a lot of the cab and frame. I've save all the bits some of them must weigh 100lbs. in the loft of the barn.

One last thing David in your first post to this thread you said "First is the ultra-low "granny" gear that I will probably never use, " sure you will great for parades lets you spin the engine fast enough to keep the engine cool.

Cheers Phil

[gordon]

Whenever I'm doing something like that I always tack weld the cut piece underneath the main bit somewhere out of sight, so you can't lose it even if you wanted to.

You've been busy on that C8, found anything else interesting while out and about? you used to turn up interesting stuff all the time ... 8~)

Gordon

[David DeWeese]

Hi Gordon,
Trucks still turn up fairly regular, but I don't bite on them like I used to. Ran out of money trying to save them all. Being a single parent of a 12 year old daughter also keeps me from roaming too far these days.
My trucker called me last week. He was given 7 CCKW's to scrap on a ranch, some in not bad shape. Wanted to know if I wanted them. Of course I do, but who pays the shipping from Montana to Texas?....
The C8 is one I want to keep and restore. It was my friend's truck, plus I will probably never find another.
Thanks, David

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
That '60-'62 bellhousing I used had no provisions for the original hand-operated starter linkage. Luckily, there was still a small amount of casting left in the locations that the linkage would have mounted on the original 216 bellhousing. Just enough for one bolt on each side.
Drilled and tapped bolt holes for the linkage in these locations. Made up a couple of brackets to strenghthen the linkage mounts since only two of the four holes could be used. Looks OK to me.
Had a stroke of luck in that I found a rebuilt starter that had sat on a shelf in my shop for 15 years or so, and installed it.
Will tackle the carb throttle linkages tomorrow.
Thanks, David

[BCBlitz]

Looks good David, never seen a set up like that before .......... nice work !

Happy easter from BC, Canada MLU style !

[David DeWeese]

Thanks Terry,
Snuck off to the shop today after a big Easter lunch to confront the throttle linkage. Was worried about it fitting after reading about having to modify the linkage when installing a later model motor. Made a couple of 1/2" spacers to go behind the linkage at the water neck, and to my surprise it fit the 235 with no problems! Made up a couple of new rods, and I was home before anyone knew I was gone.
Thanks, David

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

An outstanding effort to-date, David.... please continue to keep us posted! Many lessons learned here I'm sure.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi David

Good job on fitting the throttle around the 235 thermostat housing. Have you decided which fan you are going to use?

If you ever decide to convert to the 216 water pump on 235 several people in the MLU have made the conversion.

Cheers Phil

[David DeWeese]

Hello Phil,
I installed the old 216 fan initially on the water pump to check for clearance issues. Have a few more fans here of the same diameter if I need extra blades for cooling.
The C8 had no radiator when I received it, so started searching. Almost fell over when I priced a new radiator for a '40 Chev truck. Even if I did buy a new one, a long filler neck would still have to be installed in it to suit the 11 cab. Haven't been able to located a correct filler neck anywhere.
Have found a very good radiator here of the same vintage that fits nicely with no fan clearance issues with the lower radiator hose. Won't need a long filler neck with this one either. Will retrofit it to the C8 radiator support this weekend.
Thanks, David

[alleramilitaria]

hey i know what you mean about the radiator, i need to get mine recored for my truck and when the places around waco all said it would cost around 900.00 i could not beleave it.

[David DeWeese]

Hi Dave,
The radiator shops were probably trying to scare you off. Even if you would have said yes to the 900 bucks, they still would have found another reason not to have done it.
Back in the late 70's and 80's there were quite a few good old school radiator shops around Dallas. Now there are none.
The ones that supposedly "repair" radiators automatically tell you your's needs a recore, then try to sell you a new one at twice what you pay on the internet!
I do all my repairs myself these days. It looks like crap, but gets the job done!
Thanks, David