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#1
12-05-09, 23:35
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Water Pump Woes
Yup had the same problem on the `1953 216 engine that is in my C60L Pattern 12 and also had similar problem with both the 235 and the 261 on first assembly.
My problem I think came from assembling engines with gasket coated with silicon gasket cement. One case was not being quick enough get it assembled and bolted down and or old gasket cement. The other was not really having the cement and all the parts above 60 degrees. On the 261 when I pulled it apart you could see areas where the cement just had not bonded. Fortunately in all three cases the problems showed up during the test stand running not after the engines were in the truck with the radiator in the way. Now I clean the surfaces with a buffing pad on the air grinder (not sanding disk) degrease with brake cleaner coat the gaskets assemble tight evenly then leave alone for 24 - 48 hours. I've never had good luck using the silicone gasket stuff on something I have to run right away. For field repairs I use Peratex non-hardening.
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com 
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#2
13-05-09, 05:49
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Unirary leaks.....
....Rob did you have any sealer like plumber cement on that bolt thread that went into the block.... maybe the pump is fine and it is just a bolt leaking....
On a lighter note...... I used the rolling C15a frame to actually pull a M101a trailer since the tractor was tied up with a rototiller on the back..... worked nice....but..... it seems that the pintle / ring sizes have changed over the years..... the trailer ring was a very tight fit on the CMP pintle and had a bithc of a time removing it..... unfortunetaly was alone so have no pictures. Over the weekend will need to do photos and measure the difference between CMP trailer rings and M101a circa 1953 trailer ring.... Was this a pure coincidence or have others expereinced the same thing..? Bob C.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#3
13-05-09, 12:12
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Pintle hook mismatch
Bob, was the truck/trailer combination on uneven ground? CMP trailers had lunette eyes that were able to swivel to allow for rough ground (and fixed, except for slop in the spring mounts, tow hooks). The US standard was the other way around, fixed lunette and swiveling hook. Just for fun, did you measure the ID of the CMP tow eyes compared to the US standard to see how different the fit is? I know that when I towed the red frame around with my 10,000 pound rated hook the fit was quite loose. The CMP hook has always struck me as oversized for its rated load.
Normally people think of the problems of having both able to swivel (the whole hitch can end up upside down) but with a reasonably close fit between hook and eye to reduce slop in the hookup, uneven ground can cause binding. To avoid this most modern pintle setups (at laeast the light weight ones) have some built in slop and as a result, some people criticize them for being a rough tow.
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#4
13-05-09, 12:46
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Water Pump Woes
Rob....I have a couple of Double Sheave jobs on my rig....no leaks so far...
 Myke in Ford country Oh ya....and I got some spare chain....
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#5
13-05-09, 17:41
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Touche!
Quote:
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#6
13-05-09, 17:51
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Leaking Bolt?
Quote:
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#7
13-05-09, 21:09
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Make sure......
... we run a tap in the thread and similarly a die with the bolt before we goop them up..... or use new bolts.... and lock washers.....
Lots of proper gasket material around in the barn...... Bob C.
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#8
13-05-09, 21:19
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Give me a brake....
Last Saturday, being wet, Grant and I jacked up the C15a frame and did a brake adjustment on the beast.
Pedal had gone soft over the Winter. woerked according to the manual by raising all four wheels....... even ran the engine to see if they braked evenly. Had a persisting problem with the front wheel cylinder not releasing properly... Off came the wheel.... cylinder removed and checked for rust or dirt..... cleaned and re-installed....... voila.... except the brass junction block kept leaking ever so much..... tried various size and thickness of copper gaskets.... filed some burrs on the brass facings.... in all we assembled and reassembled about 5 times..... last one was lucky and it stopped leaking..... I now have good brakes ....but.... still require one good pump to get a hard pedal........ I am asking too much of the old CMP...... We adjusted the lower cams and center snail cams on all four wheels and bleed each corner extensively....... why is it soft... I mean why is the brake pedal still soft to the first pump....... ??? We are talking SS sleeved master cyl. .... 4 new wheel cyl... new linings and arced drum to match lining profile....running synthetic brake fluid... Do we need to bleed again.....? Comments / suggestions welcomed...... BooBee
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#9
13-05-09, 21:57
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Give me a Brake
Hi Bob
Don't know what the problem is but none of my trucks have to have the peddle pumped to get peddle. Never have had that problem, peddle is always at the same spot. About 1-2 inch free travel on the HUP and a little bit more for the other two trucks with boosters. With all the care you have put into braking system it is hard to think of what could be causing the problem. But I'm almost willing to bet in the end it going to be something simple that everybody will say oh of course. Some place I've got some 1930s brake system books I'll try and find them and start thinking simple. When you say "still require one good pump to get a hard pedal." do you mean each time the brake is applied or only when you first start to drive then it works OK? Only consistent brake problem I have had is with my HUP after it has sat for a week or so in damp weather, then the left rear wheel will grab. I've pulled the drum a couple of times, the only thing I have ever found is a light rust on the drum face. Now I know to drag the brakes for a moment under power and it goes away. None of the other drums ever do this. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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#10
14-05-09, 19:03
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Each time......
Hi Phil......
It seems that each time I use the brakes it seems to need one fullpump before it starts getting what I would escribe as a good hard feel 1 /1/2 from rest. In talking with Grant last night...... when we removed and reinstalled the driver's side front wheel cylinder.... we did bleed the front wheels each time.... but ... maybe some air travelled into the rear circuit...... We will have another crack at it this weekend...... Grant as some kind of "power bleeder" device that we will attempt to fit on the CMP..... You are right it is probably something very simple...... like an air bubble trapped in high/low section of the circuit that is just moving back and forth but never gets bleed out completely..... Stay tuned and thanks for all you time and effort.... Bob C
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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