C8 progress in Texas

[David DeWeese]

Had to attend to making a living the past few weeks, but managed to hit a few licks on the C8 between paying jobs.
Had a driveshaft made to fit my mis-matched rear axle and transmission, so drivetrain is finished.
Test-fitted the C8 hand brake components onto the new transmission. Surprised to learn it all fits without modification, and sits in the stock location.
Got the radiator situation taken care of for now until I can find a better one. Used a 1941 Dodge 1.5 ton cabover radiator that I had in excellent condition and soldered in a filler neck I had saved from a motor home radiator. Radiator fits great without any clearance issues, but.....
Also made up an alternator bracket set-up for the 235 to replace the generator.
Thanks, David

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
Very close to firing-up the C8 for the first time, and was wondering if anyone has a source for an original temperature gauge to fit the instrument cluster? All the clusters I have here, the temp gauge tube has been cut.
Thanks, David

[Phil Waterman]

Hi David

Been down this road many times over the years, though you may get lucky and find a NOS that works. I buy them on E-bay when I see them and price is cheap, about half are good. Problem with several of the NOS ones I've picked up over the years is they work but are not accurate. Though with the 11 or 12 Cab the length of the tube is not that important as almost any of the standard civi will work. On the Cab 13 the tubes are just barely long enough.

My suggestion is check Hemmings for a shop that will rebuild or supply a new one. It is almost always the tube that fails.

Cheers Phil

[David DeWeese]

Thanks Phil,
Was on the search this morning and found new ones on a site called "Bowtie Bits" in Kansas for less than $100. Don't know how to post a link to their site.

Forgot to also thank you for your earlier post on the radiator source.
Regards, David

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Dave

Would be interested in the source for new Chevy parts like that. As to posting link. Try high lighting the URL address by drag and right click with mouse once highlighted hold the Ctrl key down and hit C then you should be able to paste Ctrl V the Url into the body of a post once it is visible in your post hit the space bar and the Url should be highlighted in blue when you hit preview if so then hit post.

Once you gave me the name though I found it http://www.bowtiebits.com/index.cfm Good looking web page will have to explore.

http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor..._Category_ID=4

If you order one please let us know how it works.

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Dave

http://www.bowtiebits.com/index.cfm Good looking web page will have to explore.
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor..._Category_ID=4 If you order one please let us know how it works.

Very interesting site! There are door hinges that "look" "HUPish". See
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor..._Category_ID=6
I will be calling for the dimensions with fingers crossed...

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
Finally sorted out my front brakes this weekend. Someone had apparently installed a pre-war Chev front truck axle with post-'54 car brake backing plates on the C8.
Got around it by installing 1960 truck six-lug hubs and brake shoes, 1946 wheel bearings, races and seals, '55 wheel cylinders and 1990 Chev 4x4 drums,(same drums as the rear).
Sounds extreme, but it did solve the problem, and gave me the much better brakes I needed to match the ones on the late model rear axle.

Had a very depressing moment when I found that one of my two wheel adapters was damaged beyond use. The stud holes were worn completely through, and the lug nuts would literally fall through three of the holes.
Will have to weld up the holes and have the stud holes re-drilled and tapered to fit the lug nuts......

Thanks, David

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by David DeWeese

Thanks Phil,
Was on the search this morning and found new ones on a site called "Bowtie Bits" in Kansas for less than $100. Don't know how to post a link to their site.

Forgot to also thank you for your earlier post on the radiator source.
Regards, David

Hi Dave

Just did a quick look through and the prices seem to be good, for those of you putting 235s or 261 in your CMPs take note looks like the V8 conversion gauge they show will fit the big temp port at the thermostat housing. Will have to e-mail them to confirm the size and to get the length of the tube.

Good find David - as I said if you do order from them please let us know how the service was and what you thing of the parts.

Cheers Phil

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Dave

Just did a quick look through and the prices seem to be good, for those of you putting 235s or 261 in your CMPs take note looks like the V8 conversion gauge they show will fit the big temp port at the thermostat housing. Will have to e-mail them to confirm the size and to get the length of the tube.

Good find David - as I said if you do order from them please let us know how the service was and what you thing of the parts.

Cheers Phil

Hi Phil..
That page link shows the 6 and V8 mechanical temperature gauges..the liquid(mercury) filled sensor bulb three lines up from the bottom of the page..That is the hardest gage to get right and replace..as they are usually cut,by no brainers removing them to "Fix" or replace something else..thinking..."I'll just cut this "Wire" and splice it back together when I'm putting it back..

WRONG !!!!!!

As a licensed refrigeration mechanic I cut my baby teeth on these types of gauges...and they are very simple to calibrate...
Here's how...
Remove gauge to bench or work table and remove glass and indicator needle..This needle is usually a press fit and is easily lifted off the stem by the use of a lever underneath the needle and using the gauge face for a fulcrum lift gently ..the use of a thin set of needle nose pliers,works best as it lifts under both sides of the needle and lifts the needle straight off the stem not bending or damaging the stem..

Next place the sensing bulb in an old can full of water..or the missus best stainless PUCK cooking pot and using the red wrench bring the water up to a boil..with the sensor in the boiling water the bulb temperature is now in a known environment...212Deg F..or 100 Deg C..
With the bulb still immersed in the water and the water boiling away,replace the needle on the shaft of the gauge with the needle pointing to the appropriate temperature reading on the gauge ..
Press lightly to fix the needle firmly to the shaft..
Remove the bulb from the water and let cool..The bulb should then indicate the gauge temperature to the ambient surrounding..
Lastly ,throuw a few King Cole Tea bags in the boiling water and have a decent cuppa char...
Did you ever order one to try it..??
Should work if the sensor lead is long enough..
Just one more tip...Use anti seize on the bulb before it is inserted into the well ..This gives a better and more accurate heat transmission co-efficient as it enlarges the heat transmission surface areas..and keeps the sensor from seizing in the sensor well.
Have a great Christmas...

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
Received this NOS temp gauge the other day from a MLU forum member in Australia. This was offered and sent to me free of charge!
Another example of the high quality of folks in this hobby and on this forum!
Thanks again, Alan! I will certainly put it to good use!
Regards, David