CMP Value

[huxley]

Jim -

I checked on our local DOT site (Iowa.. truck is also in USA) regarding titling of such vehciles and it was a similar story. I had similar experience with my old Austin 10 Saloon (pitured in my avatar).

I got more info on the truck today. It is 158" WB (does this make a F60 then?), missing bed and front bumper. Body has some surface rust but nothing major. Engine is stuck, but transfer case, axles and tranny seem to be o.k.

But the size/length of the truck is worrying me now. I went that route in the past (1946 GMC 3-tonner) and the difference between trailering/towing such a vehicle and the smaller trucks to events is enormous. We eventually ended up with a 25 foot machine trailer with 1 ton truck (12K towing capaity) with a gooseneck/5th arrangement... none of which I have access to anymore.

Has anyone cut one of these trucks down? Or I suppose it would be sacriligious!?!

ATB -

H

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by huxley

Jim -

Has anyone cut one of these trucks down? Or I suppose it would be sacriligious!?!

H

Lots of people have cut the frames on these. Then we crazy people buy them and fix them up again.

[huxley]

I think in the Jeep community they call that the "bubba factor"...

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by huxley

I got more info on the truck today. It is 158" WB (does this make a F60 then?), missing bed and front bumper. Body has some surface rust but nothing major. Engine is stuck, but transfer case, axles and tranny seem to be o.k.

But the size/length of the truck is worrying me now. I went that route in the past (1946 GMC 3-tonner) and the difference between trailering/towing such a vehicle and the smaller trucks to events is enormous. We eventually ended up with a 25 foot machine trailer with 1 ton truck (12K towing capaity) with a gooseneck/5th arrangement... none of which I have access to anymore.

Has anyone cut one of these trucks down? Or I suppose it would be sacriligious!?!
H

The 158" WB does make it a F60, I'm quite sure there were initially plans for a LWB 30cwt, and almost equally sure they were never built.

Although the wheelbase is longer than other CMPs it isn't any longer than a modern pickup with extended cab (not crew cab) and long box.

I don't remember seeing it in the Ford maintenance manual (but it could be there) but there is a procedure listed in the Chevrolet repair manuals for splicing the frame. Basically the process is measure with care, cut at a 30 degree angle to horizontal for a longer splice and weld it solid. I don't remeber seeing any such repairs done on Chevrolet CMPs but I have seen Ford frames with nicely done welds in the frame just to the rear of the cab that look like they might have been done with this process. I have no idea if these Ford frames were factory built (to use smaller presses for the part length frame rails, or to allow one front section and different rear sections for different wheelbases to be joined) or field repaired but they all look to have been done by skilled welders, not some idiot who thinks more filler rod makes a better weld.

In the end, it's your truck and you can do as you want with it. If you do decide to shorten the wheelbase can I persuade you to stick with the original wheelbases of 134 or 101 inches? Sticking with the original wheelbases will let you either find or recreate "better" looking bodies. If you go with 134 inches, you shouldn't have to make up a new driveshaft, just remove the part between the transmission and the hanger bearing (at least this would be the case on a Chevrolet). If you want to go as short as 101 inches (again, it's your truck) there are several other differences to consider between the F15A that is the most common 101" and the F60 trucks. Axle ratios, size of the axle steering joints, tire size, single speed transfer case, frame cross section and maybe more. The easiest way to get to 101" WB would be to find a rolling F15A chassis and mix and match parts. For Chevrolet CMPs there seem to be many more 158 and 101 inch WB frames than 134 available, it is probably the same for Ford. Many people buy a "parts truck" and end up with a mix of the parts from both vehicles and parts from other sources. The front bumpers were standard rolled chanel section. Just measure one for size (likely 6", but get all dimensions so you get the right weight/shape 6" or whatever channel), measure and drill for the tow loops, frame mountings and brush guards.

I don't have as full a set of Ford manuals as Chevrolet, does anyone have spare parts manuals for F30, F60S or F60H they would like to sell me so that I can better answer these questions (and make reproductions available)?

[huxley]

Many thanks.

I would definitely keep with a stock length if I were cut the frame.

The 134 looking the most appealing right now because of what appears to be (at first glance anyway) a less complicated bed.

I could still use someone to volunteer to look at a few pics and give a informed opinion of this potential purchase... or perhaps I will just upload them from work on Monday.

Cheers!

H

[Jim Price]

Grant,
My F8' frame has the splices you speak of. When I queried MLU members on this the response was that it was a factory-done job.

Regards,
Jim

PS The pictures were of the frame before it was painted. It looks much better now!

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

I don't remeber seeing any such repairs done on Chevrolet CMPs but I have seen Ford frames with nicely done welds in the frame just to the rear of the cab that look like they might have been done with this process. I have no idea if these Ford frames were factory built (to use smaller presses for the part length frame rails, or to allow one front section and different rear sections for different wheelbases to be joined) or field repaired but they all look to have been done by skilled welders, not some idiot who thinks more filler rod makes a better weld.

[Grant Bowker]

Thanks for the photo, this looks more like 45 degrees than the 30 (from horizontal) specified in the Chevrolet repair procedure, but does match the Ford frames I'm remembering. When I spoke of good welds, I meant "as good as a typical CMP factory weld", not like some of the post-war fixes. Strong and beautiful is good, gorilla welds are acceptable because they are strong, but some of the postwar repairs are neither strong nor beautiful.

[huxley]

I would appreciate any observations, comments, criticisms, suggestions... thanks!

The driver's side door and engine cover are included. Front bumper is missing.

Huxley

[Phil Waterman]

The bumper is no big deal, the brush bar in front of the grill will take more time to find or fabricate. Along with the D towing rings though there are more of the D rings around then number of good trucks. If this truck spent much of this life on this farm ask the farmer has a scrap pile amazing what has been found in some farm scrap piles.

Keep us posted.

Cheers Phil

[huxley]

Are original beds rare or generally available?

I know on WCs & CCKWs in the states most were cast off and other farm or industrial job-specific bodies added.

I seem to recall Rob Fast telling me that all the radio and ambulance boxes ended up as chicken coops!

H