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#1
30-05-09, 17:04
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Hard Starting Flat Heads
Playing with Ford or Lincoln Flat Heads as hot rods we had a couple of cures for hard starting. One an electric fuel pump back by the tank to push fuel up to carb before trying to start, also good for clearing vapor lock. The other was a switch to by pass the resistor so that for starting you could get full voltage. They even sold a solenoid that had a side tap so that when the starter was turning full voltage went to the coil.
On my hot rod Lincoln we removed the manual fuel pump completely and went straight electric with a separate switch under the dash. Great anti theft device and if you did flowed the engine you could turn off the pump push the gas peddle to the floor and hold it while you cranked the engine once it cleared the excess gas the engine would almost always start and you would then turn the pump on. Pump of course was in series with the ignition switch so that it would never run when the ignition was off.
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com 
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#2
30-05-09, 19:56
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If it is quitting while running, and quite hot, and there is still fuel going to the engine (no vapour lock) then my money is on the coil. They will work when cold, and not once they heat up. Is yours the distributer with the coil right on the distributor?
Those are a tough (and expensive) coil to find these days. Options are to install one of the adapter plates and relocate the coil to the top of the engine, or to change to the later distributor with the coil located on top of the engine. A similar coil is readily available for the 9N tractor. I saw them the other day right on the shelf at the local TCS store. I may try to adapt one of these onto the early V8 distributr. Seems to me a sheet metal adapter plate could possible be made to adapt it.
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#3
31-05-09, 04:52
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coils
I still have two of the trouble prone 6 Volt divers bell coils ..if anybody wants one . I see them at swap meets too..they are not worth much really . A NOS example I bought when I had the Ford, is a aftermarket brand , not FORD, but made in Sydney NSW. The little brass post for the primary wire is sometimes broken off , as it protrudes out above the main body.
A local here runs a 6V external coil , with an adapter that fits to the top of the diver bell coil.. it runs very well without the usual heat up trouble.
__________________
1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad
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#4
31-05-09, 05:46
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Thanks for all the help.
The problem is consistent in that it always starts great from cold. It never quits while running, but after a good run if you shut it off, it won't go (lots of gas, not so much spark). The resistor in the dash is burning hot and the coil on the top of the distributor is nice and cool (though I'm touching the plastic case and not the windings on the inside).
I like the idea of an eternal coil, one with an internal resistor wired through a dummy Ford coil. Added to my to-do list.
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#5
31-05-09, 12:48
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Quote:
Is the motor turn tight ?
__________________
Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep
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#6
31-05-09, 15:20
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Quote:
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#7
31-05-09, 15:46
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Quote:
 after it hot the motor turn tight 
__________________
Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep
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