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Finally connected with the Miller sales rep this afternoon.
As can be expected I was totally "humidated" when he showed me how it worked......... First for the tickness I was using..... it is not explained in the miller manual.... the copper tips of the are toooooo small a surface area and burn holes..... tips brand new are meant to fit the low amperage 110 and the 220 spot welders...... the tips are about 1/8 new... they need to be burned down... or filed down to 3/16 to a 1/4 inch wide....... Next issue...... they told me I was using too much pressure.... in fact even when I was first using it I was not using enough pressure.... again the manual says.... do not pressure too much or copper rods will bend...... Well it seems that with good decent pressure.... enough to hold, compress, and see some flex in the copper rods....... you Zap the switch for a slow second and....voila..... very good welds. I even simulated the door skin combination..... one 40 thou (19 gauge + -) plus one 14 gauge (for the door frame) and one more 19 guage for the door skin fold over...... about 4.2mm.... and perfect welds all the way through the 3 pieces with very little surface damage. ....and this 3 layers were done without readjusting/lowering the pressure to account for the extra thickness of the 3 parts. Only difference I kept the switch on for about an extra 1/2 second...... total 1 1/2 sec. They have recommended using a flat surface tip for the lower electrode when doing the good side of door skins. Left with a smile..... now I know how it works and free new tips. In time I will experiment with using a perfectly spherical copper tip as opposed to pointed to see if it will work for me as suggested by Phil W. As soon as I get a tip too worn out....... Now the proof is in the puddin' or the doing the practice, practice, practice... Thanks for all the help, support, comments, suggestions.....hope it can be of some help to others. Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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