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#1
02-09-09, 21:40
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towing hook..
the only thing to do is to make 2 spring clips around the spring of the towing hook and then it's ready. thanks to dirk for finding the brackets between all his parts  I tought he never find them. so now I can use my trailer again.
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.  
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#2
09-09-09, 09:12
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transmission..
now the big part of the frame is ready I star ad the transmission. when I unbolted it from the bellhousing there came a lot of water and oil out  So when I open it up I was suppriced to see that the gears where not rusted at all  It only was filled up with slutch so I have some cleanup to do. So out came all the gears, axles and bearings and cleaned it all.the bearings where still good aswell are the gears, what good luck. So after cleaning everything go's back in and get's oiled. Then the outside was painted (green) as the old colar was still on it.
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.
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#3
09-09-09, 09:17
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more transmission..
here some more pictures of the transmission.
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.
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#4
28-09-09, 20:09
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the engine..
Now the transmission is ready the engine is up next. the engine was very dirty with an oil and dirt mix that hardend out like a coating, very difficult to remove.  the engine is marked H-3-2 so that will be august -3 -1942, and engine no: MR 3843823. so the engine is placed later in the car , because the car is from may 1940. anyway when the engine dirt was removed I could open the engine up and see how the inside would look like, not bad, stuc, but good.see also the other pictures. cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.
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#6
28-09-09, 20:20
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more..
when the head was of the enginebody I could see the pistons and it looked good, so I put thin oil on top the pistons and let it stand for a week. after the week was past I try to turn it and it worked the engine is lose I took the head and took it apart to clean the valves and springs and check for wear. 
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.
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#7
29-09-09, 03:17
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When you've got the head apart you might as well grind the valves and put in new valve seals.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#8
05-10-09, 20:10
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good idea david, after I took the valves and springs apart I checked the play of the valve guides and other messurements. I cleaned the valves and the head it self. there was only a small amount of carbon to clean. I grinded the valves and seats and they fit fine now. the springs I checked and messured the length and after this it was time to putt everything together again and get some paint on some parts. then the intake/exhauste manifolds where sand blasted and painted grey and heat resistend black. and the spring of the heat control thermostat was replaced for a new one. so now time for a
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.
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