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#1
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![]() good idea david, after I took the valves and springs apart I checked the play of the valve guides and other messurements. I cleaned the valves and the head it self. there was only a small amount of carbon to clean. I grinded the valves and seats and they fit fine now. the springs I checked and messured the length and after this it was time to putt everything together again and get some paint on some parts. then the intake/exhauste manifolds where sand blasted and painted grey and heat resistend black. and the spring of the heat control thermostat was replaced for a new one. so now time for a ![]()
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#2
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![]() now the enginehead is done I could start on the crankshaft. when I drained the oilpan there was some slutch in it, so that needs cleaning. I opened the rod bearing caps and took out all of the 6 pistons and checked them for wear. as you can see the no 3 piston rod is bent a little ? ![]() there was nothing else bent or damaged luckely. after the pistons were out it was the turn of the crankshaft to come out, so when it was out I could check it to and there was a little bit of wear on the main bearings so that means up to the machineshop with the shaft for some new bearings.so I took the flighwheel of the shaft after I marked the two first so I can put it back ad the same position. I found a machineshop near my house which could turn off the crankshaft to the new size. after some mesurements it was found that the shaft was still the standard size and have to be turned off to the size 010". so the next thing for me is to find some new bearings. when I have them he can start the work on the shaft. ![]() so up on the internet. ![]() cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#3
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![]() Now the crankshaft is at the machineshop I cleaned the oilpan and the oil nozzles in the pan. I had to weld some small holls in the pan. The outside of the engine was cleaned of this thick coating of oil and dirt. untill the crankshaft is back I started on the radiator. first I had to get all the rust / dirt out then to check if it is not leaking I filled it up with water and what I sow was no leaks for now.(mybe when the pump is pumping it starts leaking) I took it out of it's bracked and start cleaning. cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#4
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Nice work again, Jaap! For a moment I was thinking you would have it done for Arnhem
![]() Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
#5
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![]() well alex I am fast but I think it going to be arnhem 2010, I try for may 2010 but not shore if I make that date alex. oke now some radiator stuff. all the louvers off the radiator neaded some bending and cleaning a time taking job. after this I neaded a new cap for the filling tube, the old one was rusted away. dirk leegwater ad a fuel cap and tube that after some work fits well and was soldered in place and look fine. there was also a holl in the buttom of the cup witch was soldered closed to, but this was a difficulted job. the bracket was painted green and the radiator painted ![]()
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#6
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It appears that the engine is from a 1942 MODEL C8 or just possibly C8A! The block casting date appears to be later than the engine number would suggest so could be a service replacement?
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#7
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thanks for youré reaction about the engine david.
the mark on the engine is H-3-2 (aug 3 1942) and the motor no: MR 3849823 and the GM 839253 number cast on the side of the engine block. so now is my quiestion david by what nunber can I see that the engine is for a C8 or C8A ? I know the engine must have been placed in the truck on a later time as a replacement but thats it for me ? I hope to learne more about this. ![]() cheers jaap ![]()
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
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