The Rebuild

[hrpearce]

Hi Lionel,
That lifting jib arangement should work well, I asume the front wheel is a castor wheel, the rest is just the maths of the lifting capasity of the ram against the leverage disadvantage of the jib to calculate the load it will lift at the end.
My cousin from Holdbrook maried a wheat farmer from Temora by the name of Erol Bishop.

[Lionelgee]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

Hi Lionel,
That lifting jib arangement should work well, I asume the front wheel is a castor wheel, the rest is just the maths of the lifting capasity of the ram against the leverage disadvantage of the jib to calculate the load it will lift at the end.
My cousin from Holdbrook maried a wheat farmer from Temora by the name of Erol Bishop.

G'day Robert,

Yes, the front wheel would be a castor wheel. I have a 12 ton high lift manual ram so it should handle the weight of the the timber truck bed and the cabs okay, I don't have remote hydraulics on my tractor nor a hydraulic pump operated ram so I have to do with what I've got.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[hrpearce]

I managed to grab some CMP time today, I got the replacement stearing box painted and did a rough job of painting the diff white to make it look a bit more complete. The third photo was taken of Vicki and I ariveing at Gundagai on a frosty morning for the Shean bridge open day. It was given to me at the last meeting and instead of scanning it I just photographed it to make posting easier (less files to look through)

[Phil Waterman]

Though before you install the box. With the modern equivalent for the SAE 90 called for in the manual all three of my CMPs have developed steering box leaks. Original lube they didn't leak even when full, clean boxes all new gaskets fill with SAE 90 they leak like sieves, particularly around the large adjustment nut at the bottom of the shaft.

Consider checking for leak before you get the box in the truck (easier to clean up the leak).

Now for the rest of you living in warm climates what are you using in the steering box and does it leak? Or have you found a good way of stopping the leak? Or is this a problem only on CMPs in New Hampshire?

[Jim Price]

Phil,
Down here in sunny Arizona (where it gets hotter than the hinges to Hell) I use Valvoline SAE 80w90 Gear Oil in my F8 steering box and have had no problems with any seepage.

Regards,
Jim

[Bob Carriere]

.... Hi Phil

Mine was good and tight and is one of the few parts I did not fully disassemble...(yet) I topped it up with a heavy thick Lucas synthetic gear lube and it does not leak........ well not like a sieve anyways...... the OD flat paint tends to show oil stains at the smallest possible leak....... but it is not dripping.

On the other hand, my totally rebuild T case with new bearings, bearing races, modern seals and Speedy Sleeves on all shafts.....leaks.... not enough to be a concern but the bottom section is shinny and usually has a drop hanging there......... and it is filled with synthetic oil.....and I knew that the synthetic oil might leak...... after all it is a CMP.... why should I deprive it from marking its territory. Same story for the tranny.

Oily Boob

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

...Or is this a problem only on CMPs in New Hampshire?

My 45 HUP's steering box was found to be filled with grease!! I cleaned it out and filled it with gear oil only to find it leaks like a sieve...The grease option is starting to look good...

[hrpearce]

The stearing box on the blitz leaks badly, the new paint stedied it a bit.
I haven't checked the oil in this one yet but if it looks like leaking too much I'll fill it with chain oil it lubricates well but is quite sticky and needs a fair gap to leak from.

[Bob Carriere]

...... it was common practice to fill M 37 Dodge steering box with grease as they were bad leakers also........ and we use to top out trannies with the then famous STP....about to cans...... worked great until the following WInter at minus 25C the tranny would not shift as the oil was almost solid.

Boob

[Phil Waterman]

I wondered why the stuff that came out of the steering box so thick, it was thinner than grease but thicker than gear oil.

Which means the solution to my leak problem is probably to pump it half full of grease to mix with the gear oil and just keep adding grease until it stops leaking.

I'll have to check the service bulletin book to see if it mentions this.

[hrpearce]

Time is running out so I swaped the stearing box this afternoon it is full of chain oil and still has a slight seap but it's not bad enough to fix yet. I must have lighned the splines up OK as I still have both locks.

[hrpearce]

Went to Wagga this morning to pick up the T rubber I ordered for the windscreens. While I was there I bought another two profiles and used them to seal the hatch and take the anoying noise out of it. I got the pasenger windscreen cleaned and painted and the drivers side cleaned and one rusty corner patched with quick steel. Lastly I mounted a switch in the dash for the wiper.

[Phil Waterman]

If you get to the point that replacing the windshield frames need to be replaced and good condition CMP replacements are not readily available, here is how I got around the problem.

http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...Windscreen.htm

Cheers Phil

[hrpearce]

Thanks for the link Phil in this game all help is much apreciated.
Spent most of yesterday carting kids about and chasing the dollar but managed to get one windscreen back on and the other one sanded and painted.

[Bob McNeill]

for the hatch I used 50mm x 13mm then glued 13 x 2mm then 25 x 4, fits real well and seals. design taken off old hatch rubber.

[hrpearce]

Thanks Bob you explained that to me at Corowa this year, but as always I seam to leave things till the last minute and rego check is this Sunday morning and I grabed something quick to seal the hatch and quieten it down for the trip.
Today I got the drivers windscreen in and the wiper mounted and wired. I also disguised the spray rig so I wouldn't have to remove it. Tomorrow I nead to check the front wheel bearings and top up the break fluid and it should be ready.

[hrpearce]

Yesterday I adjusted the wheel bearings and the left king pin. I had to remove shims to get the left bearing tight but the right one was just a loose nut the locking washer wasen't bent right. The left king pin bearing required 0.071" of shiming to be added to tension it corectly and when they were added and tightened the oil leak at the back of the nuckle stoped.
I'm just back from the rego check and with the work done on the steering the blitz drove well, it was a pleasent drive.

[Lionelgee]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

Yesterday I adjusted the wheel bearings and the left king pin. I had to remove shims to get the left bearing tight but the right one was just a loose nut the locking washer wasen't bent right. The left king pin bearing required 0.071" of shiming to be added to tension it corectly and when they were added and tightened the oil leak at the back of the nuckle stoped.
I'm just back from the rego check and with the work done on the steering the blitz drove well, it was a pleasent drive.

G'day Robert,

Did the truck pass its rego check so it can now return to the road or does it need more work? Did you read the thread from a month or so ago about what can happen when the washer is not locked in place?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[hrpearce]

Hi Lionel,
Yes the Blitz passed rego again and it is more comfortable driveing with windscreens. Yes I read the thread on retaining washers and failures. Years ago while Dad and I were working on a truck diff we found the left nuts welded on as the previous owner got sick of them working loose .
Today I had to pay back Vicki's patience and pour a path behind the garage, Vicki was off work so she helped we mixed 7.5 bags of cement and barrowed it in and trowled itoff in 2.5 hours

[hrpearce]

I had some time to work on the jack again today. I now have both threads turning and the outer lifting slide is working but the inner one is still stuck. The drive cog is freed up too. Can anyone tell me how many ball bearings I need to run the crown wheel on?

[hrpearce]

I have a place to stick the rego label this year

[Lionelgee]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

Hi Lionel,
Yes the Blitz passed rego again and it is more comfortable driveing with windscreens. Yes I read the thread on retaining washers and failures. Years ago while Dad and I were working on a truck diff we found the left nuts welded on as the previous owner got sick of them working loose .
Today I had to pay back Vicki's patience and pour a path behind the garage, Vicki was off work so she helped we mixed 7.5 bags of cement and barrowed it in and trowled itoff in 2.5 hours

G'day Robert,

Good job with the concrete. Now that is a real good job for the winter and a not so good job to do close to summer. How come we always do these jobs at the wrong time of year. The PTO mounted mixer is a big help too.

Always good to keep on the best side of she who must be obeyed.

Regards
Lionel

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Robert - what you have there is a Carrier jack and many people are looking for them.

Bob

[Willanthry]

Thanks for that info on the windscreen Robert...one of the windscreens on my Blitz is fairly well rusted out in one corner, and it's been bent outwards into the bargain, which ought to make fixing it interesting...what sort of glass did you use in the windscreen?

[gjamo]

Hi Robert,
Looks like 25 balls in the thrust race of my jack.
Cheers,
Graeme

[hrpearce]

Hi,
Bob the person who gave the jack to me found out what it was three weeks ago when he was on a spare parts buying trip and told me when he got back so it looks like I received a valuable gift.
Willanthry I used the original glass it wasn't removed from the frames I patched , cleaned and painted with it in place as I wasn't game dismantle the frames.
Graeme thank you I will have to find some more as there was only 7 left in the jack when I opened it up.

[hrpearce]

Finally got around to buying a 7/8" tap and die, the tap I got in Aus. but I ended up buying the die from UK. I'll have to make a 2" stock for the die as mine is 2 1/4" and has tabs to lock the die in, this one will need grub screws.

[hrpearce]

The blitz was making a strange noise on startup this morning, it turned out to be the alternator fan rubbing on the fan belt as the single retaining bolt at the front had failed. Thank goodness for threaded rod as that got me going quickly. It looks like I need to make a proper mounting next wet day.

[hrpearce]

A little bit closer to finishing. I got one rim sandblasted between jobs today and started cleaning the nut threads. It was good to have a little CMP time again.

[hrpearce]

When you haven't got the proper tools improvise. This is how I cleaned the threads on the rim bolts, not pretty but it works.