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#1
07-02-10, 14:14
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Door frames
Bob
I was sure you would say I don't need any help with door frames and too bugger off. We'll have too have a chat again this year at Acton. I used the bonding adhesive on the car fenders and floor pans and was quite pleased with the results. It takes time and quite a few clamps to prepare and fit things to be bonded, thats about it for the down side. Bonding eliminates the heat distortion and metal clean up from a mig, I don't have the luxury of a spot welder. The bonding adhesive is easy to apply and work with and is not as toxic as POR in a closed work area ( no disrespect intended to POR , I've used it too). It also leaves a seal between the two layers of steel that is water proof. That is a huge bonus as that is usually where rust starts out off. The adhesive is expensive, but I found it easier and quicker to work with than welding, with a better finished product. 
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#2
07-02-10, 16:42
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Alex, if you hit a modern vehicle with a CMP, it's the one that would be doing the crush absorbing anyway.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#3
08-02-10, 03:32
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I did not say to bugger off....
Gord
You ninnie....... I am just surprised that you would ask me...after I have seen what you are capable of doing...... I will gladly do what I can to help you out. Bring your doors down to Acton and remove the inner skin first so we can see the guts of things.... Hang in there. Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#4
08-02-10, 04:15
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The impossible dream......
Well after listening to all the good advice...... and the nay sayer who said the 10:50 Chevron tires would not fit a CMP rim.....and not knowing any better.... we did it.....
Pictures will follow from Grant and Rob. The tire shop guys said to me the last time I was over begging for tire lube.... "Why don't you guys use threaded rods to get the rim together if you can't reach the two long studs......? That set my mind to thinking how to build a device that would not damage the painted rims.... and safe and easy to use... Well I built two steel tubing crosses.... drilled for the drum bolt pattern... got 36 inches of 3/4 threaded rod and nuts......cut the rods in 4 pieces a bit of welding and whalla!!! The pictures will show you what I mean. The device is intended to install the tire bead on the lower and longer half of the rim. The messy tire lub they sold me worked like K-Y jelly on a new bride..... smissshh !!! One cross fits the under side of the lower half of the rim....tire is expended and held open with square pieces of two x four lumber....... remember I am only instaling the tire bead on the lower half of the rim.... Phil.. tire was cold... the lube was like crystalized snoot.... the upper cross is 18 inches across and spans the tire bead... we added cut off pieces of 1x2 steel left over from the ends of the crosses to push the bead down enough so we coiuld remove the inner cross...... so when you screw the 4 large bolts the bead is forced evenly over the edge of the lubed rim with hardly any hesitation. Once the tire bead is properly installed on the lower half.... we removed the rig and inserted the tube and flap..... partly inflated the tube... enough to position the tube BUT not enough to bulge the flap between the rim. We did use a flat stick to make sure everything was in the right place. The top half of the rim was then applied....even forgot to lube the top half... by now the two longer rim studs reched and allowed to install the nuts.... the rest is nuts on..... tighten evenly..... inflate deflate.. reinflate. At 30 psi the tire was fully seated and not even a "pop" was heard....just slipped in place like nothing. Now we have 3 more to do for mine..... plus dozen more to come. It sure beat the hell out of trimming beads, hammering the bead on the rim, cursing...... Now if the casing had been softer with mild weather it would have been even easier. Every garage should have one....cost about $20 of steel and $20 for rod and nuts...... getting tire done at the tire shop.... $20 + pick up and delivery time..... the experience of doing it yourself...safely and without breaking into a sweat....priceless. Having Grant and Rob to help is a luxury!!! Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#5
08-02-10, 13:51
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Bob's Wonderful Wheel Whirlygig
Wave a red flag. Say it can't be done. Then watch Bob. Our fearless leader put together a very practical tire/rim mounting rig. He has already explained how he put it together. Here are some shots showing the construction phase.
Grant has some more shots of the process and the finished product. Bob gives me way too much credit on this project - all I did was watch, take photos and ask the dumb questions while working on my 45 HUP.
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RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$? Last edited by RHClarke; 08-02-10 at 13:59.
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#6
08-02-10, 13:58
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What Is It?
This little device probably could have been made up, painted and mounted by an expert in 20 minutes. It took me a bit longer (OK, all morning). Any ideas of what it is? A free beer at BBB4 is the prize - Bob and Grant you can't play.
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RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#7
08-02-10, 14:28
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Before the shots of the tire rig - one of the inside of Lucifer, the other of the thermometer showing the result...
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#8
18-03-10, 20:16
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Slack employee...
Quote:
Get down to Gracies tonight for some T.A.(Trade Advancement).. Just released today.. Quote:
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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