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HI
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Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep |
#2
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Yes and no. I went at the last minute to the highways department to get an oversize permit. I had to go all of about 3 miles on the highway to go from the base to my property. Of course, their answer was no, and in anticipation I had already recce'd a much longer route using only grid roads. I went 8 miles that way, followed by a cross through a ditch and across my neighbor's acreage. I had hydro come check the route for line clearances, and they actually followed me for the first trip. Cost for them was $40. All four trips went without a hitch.
Grid roads don't fall under the Dept of highways authority. The municipal office didn't care, although they initially thought I would have to go to the area planning for a building permit. I informed them that my intention was to use it for agricultural purposes, to which we both knew there were no permits required. Below are two photos of the last portion of the whole trip. First photo is crossing the ditch over a quick approach I threw in (30 yards of gravel). Second photo was where one wheel went over the edge. A bit of quick shoveling and I was back on my way. ![]() ![]() Last edited by rob love; 15-02-10 at 03:26. |
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#4
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Rob,
They are still talking about that project of yours here.If they ever try and tax you on the building you can honestly say it is a portable building and I can move it whenever I want and I have pictures to prove it! Do you still have that old Ford truck or did it go to pasture? Derk.
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1942 Ford universal carrier Mk 1 1943 Ford 60 cwt long CMP ambulance 1943 Ford GPW 1/4 ton stretcher jeep 1943 Bantam T-3 1/4 ton trailer BSA folding airborne bicycle ser#R5325 (early) |
#5
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We now have 7 shelters at the farm.
The early one from Princess Autowhere beige/tan colored and last the longest....3 to 4 seasons or should say years as we do not remove them for the Summer. Last few years the quality of the silver tarps from PA is plain awful.... one season is all you will get from the siver tarps...... so we buy replacement siver tarps at PA for about $40 when on sale (24x16)....some shelters now have 3 layers of tarp. We never had one collapse but we do have a snow patrol.... I inspect the accumulation and let out an email for clean up..... easiest has beento push the inside with a traw broom..... on a cold day your hand is too small an area and can actually punch a hole in the roof..... The other disadvantage is that all the snow you push off the roof falls on each side and will accumulate tot he height of the roof line....... from expereince we now leave just enough room between shelters fro me to back up the 7 foot wide snowblower and clear the area. Failure to remove snow from the side will eventually ice up and push in the side walls to a point of failure. If I had to buy new temp structure I would favour the better quality Shelter Logic models sold by Canadian tire..... made in New England sate.... tarps are 2 to 3 times heavier..... roof is domed instead of flat pitch.... and are design to withstand snow better...... they are also taller by design. CTC sells them $600 but regualrly on sale at $400. Don't be too concerned if the model you select is marginally not high enough for a CMP....... to anchor the shelter use old railroad ties..... you gain about 8 inches...... and they give you a place to lag bolt the shelter pads into something the wind will not lift. For extra protection we usually tie the shelter roof peak with rope to the vehicles stored inside... like wearing suspenders and a belt. We are hoping to get some sea containers in the future and span the space between them for more storage.......but most likely will still need the flexibility of cheaper shelters...... So far, in the rural areas, temp shelters have not been a by-law issue. Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#6
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My (silver) PA shelter at the Hammond Barn has had a tarp added for extra protection but the one at Don Dingwall's back yard didn't and it 'blew apart' last week. I think that I will invest in a Cdn Tire model this summer.
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Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE |
#7
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You can actually skin it twice...once on top once inside..... keep the space in between inflated with a small blower.... instant insulated green house.....
Unless you use pressure treated plywood it eventualy rots and fails.... for our purpose with proper ventilation...single skin it would work.... so would a pole barn construction..... rigid frame.... sheet metal roof and canvass siding... What it really boils down to is do you spend $3000 for a very secure 8x8x20sea container that you can use as soon as it hits the gravel bed.... estimated life.......25 years.... or $1000 for a rugged 10x7x20 HD canvass shelter that requires 8 hours to set up good for 10 years....... or a $500 do it from scratch project that will consume 3 weekends and last 5 to 10 years.... the big cost is quality UV resistant covering..... Frankly at my age, with all due respect to practicality, if I can get a middle of the ground solution for 10 years with minimum efforts to set up and to maintain....... $1000 for ten years is $100 a year.... after that my needs to shelter a wheel chair will be minimum..... I found this Canadian company from NB....Cover tech...... looks promising.... There may be others....but bottom line is that for a quality 7x12x20 average costs is about $1000..... if it will last 10 + years....ain't so bad. Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#8
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Hello MLUers,
When I worked in Parks and Gardens in Queensland we made a modular hot house which had a lightweight metal frame which could be dynabolted down to concrete blocks; or if you wanted bolted into concrete footings in the ground. The sides of the vertical posts and the pitched roof had "C" shaped channels. The metal frame was made up of two posts and a centre flange which the pitched roof went either side of and then bolted to the posts. Then waterproof film which had circular ribbing sewn into its sides was fed through from the bottom of the "C" on one post up over the roof pitch and down the other side. Dishwashing liquid really helped you feed in the film through the "C"s. To keep the frame strong and the film rigid a number of horizontal spans of metal secured the film to the base of the posts.They also used wire and turnbuckles to make everything rigid and it was rated to be very windproof. The units were originally designed to provide temporary housing for disaster areas in Asia as they were waterproof and could stand up to strong winds. If you wanted to expand the structure you just bought more waterproof film and more metal frames. They were designed to be fully transportable so they could load into small planes and once they landed they were light enough to be transported by animal or human powered village vehicles and taken to where they were needed. All you had to do to shift it once it was no longer needed was slide the film out and unbolt the metal frame, roll up the waterproof film and throw it in the back of a truck or trailer and flown out to be stored and taken it to the next place it was needed. Kind Regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 |
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