1940 Chev C15, Cab 11 restoration in Holland

[Bob Carriere]

The inside of the brass block looks carefully machined to accept the matching tapper of the oil line....... the modern fitting will screw on but will leak a lot under pressure due to the absence of a mating surface. The easiest would be to either make a new block externally identical but set up to take modern fittings or machine a brass adapter to fit the tapper and accept the new thread style at the other end.

Occasionnaly the old style oil line appears on Ebay BUT are usualy too short to be of any use.

Phil ...... hot engine oil down your sleeve is a sure way to wake you up in the morning....... none of these vehicles..... especially the cab11/12 were ever design for the comfort of anyone.... mechanics or the drivers....

...and being sadistic and masochistic that's why we love them...

Boob

[cletrac (RIP)]

A few wraps of teflon tape on the threads would likely solve the problem.

[jaap de wit]

Thanks guy's for all the helpfull info, before I show some more pictures I wondering how did they fill up that oil filter after replaceing the filter element?
oke back to my own project I placed the gearbox in it's place and installed the small compressor on the left side. I also started on the fueltank brackeds witch needs new straps to hold the tank. I strated on the tank to and under all the dirt and old paint I found the original number Z4200302 I did not see a C so ... I want to make it british anyway (because of the british radiobody).
see the next reply to for more...
cheers jaap

[jaap de wit]

the fuel tank was very clean inside so it needed not much work. I cleaned the brass plate with the valve and sender holl and it looks fine. the sender I am not sure about I cleaned it and try to test it with the gauge and it was not working good, is there a easy way to test the sender ?
I used a mall to paint the number back on the tank and then putt it on it's brackeds, I used rubber strips between the tank and the brackeds.
Dos'nt it looks great, to bad I have only one tank. I am looking for the lefthand side tank with the small filling pipe and the brass plate with the valve and sender unit, so if anybody nows one.
cheers jaap

[Phil Waterman]

"Thanks guy's for all the helpfull info, before I show some more pictures I wondering how did they fill up that oil filter after replacing the filter element?"

If you are speaking of the horizontally mounted oil filter the simple answer they didn't. The vertically mounted filter of course you pour in 1-2 quarts slowly after you put in the filter then put the top on.

It really is not much of a problem with the Chevy splash/spray lubrication system as there are nearly two quarts of oil trapped in the troughs, which any of us who have flipped over a 216 Chev without first removing the oil pan discovered as the oil ran out onto the floor. This oil trapped in the troughs will lubricate the lower end of the engine until the oil pressure comes up and the spray jets take over. I’ve done some test and the Chevy oil system though low pressure moves a lot of oil. See http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...Page%20Two.htm for some pictures

But you raise a very important point do not just dump in 6 quarts of oil in a freshly assembled engine and try to start it. You really need to prime the oil system, use a electric drill down through the mounting for the distributor. Dumping in the oil does not insure that the troughs are filled.

Cheers Phil

[Ausmick]

Hi Phil,

I was wondering about the same thing, priming the oil system, when my current project gets that far. Could you simply just use the crank handed to get the oil thrown about a bit? Or would this not work.

Mick

[Grant Bowker]

The reason Phil suggested using the drill down the distributor mount hole is that by doing this you drive the oil pump directly without turning any other part of the engine so that if you have any dry bearing surfaces they will be lubricated before they are moved.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by jaap de wit

the fuel tank was very clean inside so it needed not much work. I cleaned the brass plate with the valve and sender holl and it looks fine. the sender I am not sure about I cleaned it and try to test it with the gauge and it was not working good, is there a easy way to test the sender ?
I used a mall to paint the number back on the tank and then putt it on it's brackeds, I used rubber strips between the tank and the brackeds.
Dos'nt it looks great, to bad I have only one tank. I am looking for the lefthand side tank with the small filling pipe and the brass plate with the valve and sender unit, so if anybody nows one.
cheers jaap

Jaap..
Putting the rubber gaskets under the tank straps may effect the grounding of the tank itself..with out witch your gas gage may not work..I'm going from memory here but I believe that the tank sending unit is a one wire sending unit and depends on the tank being grounded to have the guage read properly..other wise it may read all over the place or not work at all..
Don't know but makes sense to me..Check it out.

But beautiful work on your vehicle..

[Bob Carriere]

Alex..... the original tanks were mounted on a braided canvass ribbon impreganted with some coal tar substance of some sort and would ALSO have acted as an electrical isolator...also reduced squeaks and friction between metals... BUT the fuel line is steel and properly grounds everywhere on the frame with hold down clips.

These same canvas strips eventually (40 + years) became dry and absorbed water which usually rotted the underside of the fuel tanks..

Boob

[Lynn Eades]

This is for those us that don't know, but don't want to ask.
These filters are bypass filters, and as such, would have little effect on the oil pressure to the rest of the engine. They are connected on the inlet side to a main pressure gallery. The flow through the filter housing is by way of a restrictor hole or holes, at the inlet to the filter housing (often a small pair of holes in the tube in the centre of the housing)The oil exits these holes,as a minimal flow, passes through the element, and returns to the sump. The bypass filter typically uses a finer media than a full flow system,and has no alternative route when the filter blocks up. (the flow just stops)
Basically you can change the filter. Re-assemble it dry, with the new filter. Run up the engine,(checking for leaks) and then top up your sump.
None of this has anything to do with priming, and starting a rebuilt engine, or full flow filters.