1940 Chev C15, Cab 11 restoration in Holland

[Bob Carriere]

Alex..... the original tanks were mounted on a braided canvass ribbon impreganted with some coal tar substance of some sort and would ALSO have acted as an electrical isolator...also reduced squeaks and friction between metals... BUT the fuel line is steel and properly grounds everywhere on the frame with hold down clips.

These same canvas strips eventually (40 + years) became dry and absorbed water which usually rotted the underside of the fuel tanks..

Boob

[Lynn Eades]

This is for those us that don't know, but don't want to ask.
These filters are bypass filters, and as such, would have little effect on the oil pressure to the rest of the engine. They are connected on the inlet side to a main pressure gallery. The flow through the filter housing is by way of a restrictor hole or holes, at the inlet to the filter housing (often a small pair of holes in the tube in the centre of the housing)The oil exits these holes,as a minimal flow, passes through the element, and returns to the sump. The bypass filter typically uses a finer media than a full flow system,and has no alternative route when the filter blocks up. (the flow just stops)
Basically you can change the filter. Re-assemble it dry, with the new filter. Run up the engine,(checking for leaks) and then top up your sump.
None of this has anything to do with priming, and starting a rebuilt engine, or full flow filters.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Well I found my handy dandy Chevy Oil System priming tool. Which is a 7 3/4inch long bit of 3/8ths rod stock heated and flatted at one end to match the thickness of the distributor end. Chucked up in a hand drill plug in type if you want to run it for any length of time. Produces 30psi in a 216 Chevy engine and produces 40psi in a 235 or 261 engine.

(note first one of these I made I used a piece of steel tubing flattened at one end nice fit but the tip quickly broke off, luckily I was able to fish it out with a magnet, pain if it drops into the pan. While your at it be sure your drill bit is really nice and tight on the shaft I dropped the drive bit once and it almost slid into the oil pan.)

When I'm building up and engine on the test stand I have a block heater which brings the engine up 140 F then I run the primer once the block is warm it is surprising how fast the oil starts to warm up then with no plugs in the engine I spin the engine over while running the drill.

Lynn in talking about bypass filters mentions a very important point the original by pass filters had a small orifice fitting or tube to control the amount of oil that would go back directly to the sump. If you are installing a newer filter system you may need to add a restricted fitting to not have two much oil flow through the filter. Watch the oil pressure as you go through the first engine test and get the oil up to engine temperature.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

In response to your question yes, easier to test the tank senders than it is to check the fuel gauge. I use a ohms meter just raise and lower the float arm and the ohms meter should change. I've got a couple of senders out I'll try and remember to check them and see what they read for resistance at the full and empty positions.

About the tank straps originally my 1945 HUP had a tar coated cloth band between the tank and the strap. While my 1942 C60S had rubber strips between the tank and the steel strap. Both had the woven ground straps that have been mentioned, though the all steel fuel line provides a pretty good ground back to the fuel tank selector and filter if you don't mind the idea of gas line being a electrical ground.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

I remembered today to grab the fuel tank senders I have and take an ohms reading on them. I check two NOS ones I had on the shelf as well as the senders on my C60L.

The C60L which reads 1/2 full tanks .013 Ohm on one tank and 3/4 on the other at .034 Ohms

The two NOS read .003 to .005 empty .017 to .019 half way and .034 to .036 full.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Phil

[jaap de wit]

thanks for the measurements phil I think my sender is dead so up to buy a new one. the trick with the oilpomp and the drill works fine thanks for the tipp guy's. after this I cranked the engine for the first time, that worked well. then I took some compression pressure measurements and this showed a little leaking in 2 cilinders (valves) so off go's the head again and the valves neaded a little bit more grinding and cleaning now they are oke. so the head is backon again and then try again. I also made the arge like new and placed it on the chassis now it starts looking more like a truck.
cheers jaap

[Ganmain Tony]

She is starting to look awesome Jap!!!!

Before you go beserk with the cab. Id whack the drive shaft in, rig up a ignition system, put in the radiator and take her for a quick spin. That way you can check how she brakes and drives.

Not to mention the motivation it'll give you to keep at it.

Not that you seem to be lacking in energy.