2010 at the Hammond Barn

[Stuart Fedak]

Originally Posted by RHClarke

It is hard to believe that there have been no postings from the barn since early February. So, it is time for an update. Three additions made their way to the barn in the recent past.

The other two additions will now allow us to cut and bend sheet metal for body work. A metal shearing machine and a metal brake now adorn the barn floor. Bob and Grant welded up some rolling metal frames for the new machines and they are now easily transportable.

On one of my all too few visits, Bob and I tested his spot welder. We put together replacement lips for my HUP's large sliding hatch. Our first attempt produced varied but useful results. New tips are being ordered so that we can get a little closer to the bends.

The barn was a very quiet place this past weekend as everyone was busy with other priorities. Just as well, the big melt is on and the grounds are very wet. Hopefully things will dry out this coming week.

Nice to see the 16 Ga shear and metal brake . Looks like I have more reason to come to visit. Those are two items I always dreamed of getting, but no space to put them at home. While I was at University of Manitoba, I worked at Dominion Bridge during the summer. That was a big structural steel plant in Winnipeg. They had huge shears and brake press, and I was able to go in on the weekends to make all sorts of things. Their scrap piles were better than most steel service centres. Dominion Bridge was one of the manufacturers of the Bren Carriers in WWII. That was where I learned arc and MIG welding, as well as operation of huge radial drills and other machines.

I will have to bring out some Iltis repair panels and use them to make up other parts that I need for restoration. Nice thing about the Iltis is many of the body panel parts are square, so can be made up.

Last year I made up some muffler heat shields. I had the 16 Ga steel cut locally and used the metal brake at Algonquin College to put in the bends. I used the old muffler heat shields as a template and drilled the holes. (I guess I should post images)

One item I have to make up for the Iltis is some gas tank straps. Easy job using 18 Ga mild steel to make the strips. Then cut out some sections and spot weld using MIG welder.

Keep me in mind for some MIG welding. I need the practice.....

Cheers!

Stuart

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Stu

Will bend backwards to accommodate you...... do drop in.....

I am now working on the skins for the cab11/12 doors..... also inner skin panels for the cab...... everything that was touching the arches or near the floor was rusted and very "Holy"...... some can be patched but it is almost easier to replace the whole panel. Now we can bend, shape and spot weld.... Mig is always there for the bigger jobs. I am still working with the large .035 wire/gas but will switch to the lighter .025 wire/gas for the thin gauge sheet metal..... and practice....

The welder needs to have the polarity changed inside before I can use the small wire..... can't figure out why but it as to be done. I might even practice doing gas butt welds..... difficult but very precise if you do not constantly burn holes in the metal.....Like Stu says....practice... especially perfect practice does give perfect results.

I also have to do the rear cab skin..... including bending the angle iron according to Phil's documented process.... may use some of the new metal glue to attach center ribs as the spot welder can't reach that deep.


Eventually will build a "rotisserie" ( at least one any ways) to facilitate the reverse engineering of the 2B1 cargo box. That will no doubt necessitate using the large HD pan box brake at the fabricator or his large hydraulic bending press..... the largest gauge on the box is 11 gauge..... most of it is 14 gauge. The problem with the cargo box is that some sections are 90 + inches long and even a modest 12 gauge pan box brake at $4000 can only handle 48 inches.

....but we are having fun.....

Boob

[Stuart Fedak]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Hi Stu

Mig is always there for the bigger jobs. I am still working with the large .035 wire/gas but will switch to the lighter .025 wire/gas for the thin gauge sheet metal..... and practice....

The welder needs to have the polarity changed inside before I can use the small wire..... can't figure out why but it as to be done. I might even practice doing gas butt welds..... difficult but very precise if you do not constantly burn holes in the metal.....Like Stu says....practice... especially perfect practice does give perfect results.
....but we are having fun.....

Boob

I have some welding to do on the Iltis body, and I want to cut up some of the Iltis repair panels I have, for practice panels (so I am using the same guage mild steel to practice on). I have a nice DVD that I picked up from Miller welding that shows the correct technique for patch butt welding. It is a slow process, as you have to let the metal cool to prevent warping and burn out, but the results are amazing. I also picked up some small devices for holding the patch panels in place. I might also try out the flattened copper pipe behind the panel technique. Anyways, I want to do this on some practice pieces before doing the Iltis body.

I will see if I can make a copy of the DVD for educational purposes for the Hammond Barn library......

Cheers!
Stuart

[Grant Bowker]

Flattened copper pipe has limited heat absorbtion capability. How do I know? By burning through some while filling in rust perforated inner fenders on my cab 13 floor. If you are working on flat surfaces, 1/4" copper plate works better as a heat sink. There are a few pieces at the barn but if you want some for your home welding shop take a look at Cohen's on Merivale Rd. or if that doesn't fit your needs check the Metal Supermarket on Sheffield Rd. (soon to become Superior Metals - they are not renewing their franchise agreement - same location and phone numbers as at present).

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Grant & Bob

I use odd bits of brass as well as copper as back up for but welds or for filling spots. Got some of those really heavy old brass kick plates from a school must be close to 1/8th thick. Make really good heat sinks if they are clamped tight behind a weld on thin sheet metal.

Have a friend that uses wet toilet paper on either side when he is welding light gauge sheet metal. Same guy gas welds M151 back together with old coat hangers says it's the best match he has found for the grade steel used in the bodies, makes you wonder.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Phil we weld sheet metal...... sheeet metal not sh*t metal.....

I found some old printers copper plate at a surplus yard...for Government letter head no less........1/4 inch thick and about 3 x 7 inches..... buss bars from large electrical panels are also nice to use....

It is amazing to weld a bolt hole shut and nothing sticks to the copper....

I have stiched many rusted exhaust pipes with coat hangers over the years but find that the more modern version are lighter gauge/size and crappy steel they used to be just varnished or coated with a schellac to keep them from rusting.... now they are painted and it seems to mess up the welds.

Do you have pictures of your cab 12 in muddy holes showing of the traction of CMP....?

Boob

[ozm29c]

Stuart,
Here are some of my thoughts on MIG welding. Hope that they may be of help to you
1. Always check what lies behind the proposed patch panel ie will it burn!!!!! Is there a fuel line or electrical wiring looms.
2. Prepare the joints to ensure that you are welding clean metal, Any contaminants in the weld pool will either weaken the join or blow out while you are welding like a mini volcano!
3. Keep the joint width between 0.5 to 1mm
4. Use 0.6/0.8mm dia wire with your smaller Mig welders. Having said that my thoughts on MIG welders are the bigger the better. Small MIG welders are fine but the bigger welders have more OOMPH!
5. If possible try to avoid using flux cored wire.
6. With patch panels don't try and weld in continuous seams, spot here then move away and place a spot there. Continue staggering your spotting until the join is filled-This takes more time but will help dissipate the heat and minimize your patch panel and parent metal from heat distortion. Remember HEAT is your enemy. A good cup of Tea or Coffee can be enjoyed many times
7. Use heavier gauge metal ie 1.2mm or at a pinch 1.6mm (than your parent metal)to make your patch from. This will help you to start your weld without blowing a hole in the joint. Looks no different on the outside.
8. Use sunscreen on exposed parts of your skin as MIG welders have a tendency to burn your skin with excellent results. Better still try to cover all exposed parts of your body.
9. I know it is hard but try to weld with elbow length gauntlets (Leather gloves). I am sure experienced welders at some time in the past have grabbed a hot bit of metal with their bare hands by mistake. OUCH!
10. If you can borrow an auto darkening helmet, do so. Good for tak welding.
11. Buy yourself a cheap Chinese angle grinder but always use good quality cutting and grinding discs. Use the very thin section cutting discs. As always use PPE (Eye protection and hearing defenders)
12. When grinding off the finished welds try not to use excessive force to speed up the removal of excess weld. All you will do is create heat with the end result being metal distortion. Once you have leveled the ground surface, get hold of a flapper disc to further smooth the surface.
13. Paint/prime the exposed metal as soon as possible to prevent corrosion.
14. The point of a screw driver is a very good tool for probing around the affected area to try and determine the extent of rust damage. Once you have cut the rust out of a particular area, then and only then is when you will know where to start your repairs.
Don't rush the job
Good luck
Cheers
John Wilson