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#1
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Interesting
![]() Had a look through some more photos and would make more sense to have the fillers to the back if you had a chorehorse fitted as the bracket would foul when filling . Managed to find a factory chev photo of the passenger side that shows filler to rear I wonder if they fitted the tanks differently depending on body type and configuration ?
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Have a good one ![]() Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty" ![]() |
#2
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Here's two factory pic closeups of the pass side filler holes. The Ford seems to have a bigger hole than the Chev. I went through my pics and it seems the cab 11s all used the same fillers on the tanks. The cab 12s and 13s used a longer filler neck. By the way the Ford is the one with the wood bracket under the tank.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#3
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Hi,
Thank you Andrew and David for clearing things up with the factory photos. Spent the weekend working on my fuel tank. Tank luckily was dry inside with no varnish. Someone had pulled the drain plug years ago and it had saved the tank. Prepped and coated the inside of the tank with a quart of fuel tank sealer, sanded it down to bare metal, then primed and painted it. Fortunate to have at least one good tank to work with! As you can see, my other tank has a slight problem..... Spent the rest of the day fabricating the parking brake linkage that was missing under the fuel tank support rail. Thanks again Andrew and David for your postings on the linkages earlier in this thread. The information was a great help! ![]() Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 26-04-10 at 02:31. Reason: added better photo |
#4
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Hi,
My other tank on hand,(a Ford one), was badly rusted through, with 1/2 of the tank so bad that it could barely hold it's shape. Since my other tank was still serviceable, I decided to make a dummy tank of the second one. Opened the tank up on one end, cut out the rusted baffles, then wrapped the entire tank with duct tape. Dug out several pounds of debris, as this tank had been a mouse hotel/bathroom for decades. Ground out all the rust with an angle grinder and coated the inside with several layers of fibreglass matting, removed the duct tape, then worked the outside with body filler to slick it up. As I am going to try and reproduce a British Duple body for the C8, I installed a mock filler neck in the end of the tank for use with that type body. Will make another tank end plate and filler neck for the good tank, but will use adhesive to attach it as I don't want to modify a good original tank... Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 26-04-10 at 13:54. |
#5
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Hi,
Had saved back,(what I thought was), a very nice instrument cluster for use on the C8. This one had a bare steel bezel around the glass instead of the chrome. Came from a '46 1.5 ton model. Pulled it apart to remove the dust, and every marking on the cluster glass dissolved with one light pass of a paper towell. The odometer numbers also fell off with just a touch... Ordered a new instrument cluster glass and gauge decal kit from Chevs of the '40s. It also contained the odometer decals. Cleaned everything, installed decals and painted all the components that needed it. Learned also that it is probably best to not drink beer during gauge and speedometer repairs..... Thanks, David |
#6
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Hi David
How easy or hard was the decal to apply..... will need to do the same for my cab 11...... anything to wacth for..... Nice job on the gas thanks as well...... what kind of baffles did you have inside...... was it the multi 1/8 perforations or the solid sheet with cut out corners..... Watching your progress for encouragements...... Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#7
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Hi Bob,
Odometer decals were very tedious, but forgiving. Could peel them back off and reposition them with no problems. Instructions for the odometer were incomplete. They tell you to align the decals over the existing numbers. That's fine if you still have numbers on the odometer wheels. If not, you need to align the zero on the decal with a dot on the right side of the odometer wheels for them to come out correctly. Gauge decals were a breeze after doing the speedometer. Had to be very careful not to bend the gauge needles when installing them, though. Two baffles on the Ford tank. Solid baffles with cut-outs on the corners. The Chev tank has one baffle with holes at the bottom and one solid partition for the reserve feature. Thanks , David Last edited by David DeWeese; 09-05-10 at 15:40. Reason: added info |
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