JEEP willy's help

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Mike.
What I am seeing is a badly carboned up engine..No idea what the bottom end is like but the valves are not all burned up and split..a good sign..and once you pull the engine and can see what is going on down below you will have a better idea..
That happens when they spend a lot of time idling and slow..low RPM operation..
Rich on the fuel under these conditions..hence the carbon..
IF all the other tune up points ..timing..carb...valve..etc.adjustments are in spec..
Anyway press on..Keep the pix coming..
You are doing fine.
One more thing..DON'T let your "Car Buddies"..talk you into pounding those pistons down "JUst to see if..."...what ever..
Pull the engine.take off the pan..disconnect the connecting rods ..then you can use a wooden block and tap them to break them loose...but don't attempt until disconnecting the connecting rods and rotating the crank to clear the rods..mark your end caps to each connecting rod and the way they are facing before you pull them apart and throw them in a box..
What I used to do was as I was disassembling... I had a big piece of heavy cardboard and I would put slits in the card board and I would position the components on the card board exactly in the direction..number..combination..of all the components as I took them off ..that way I didn't mix up my end caps..rods..valves..pushrods ,main bearing caps etc..and I knew what went where when ever I got the rest of the short block finished...things look a lot better when you know where every thing goes and which way it came out..

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

As Alex said, that engine doesn't look too bad - the valves look great, even on no. 4 cylinder. It's just been sitting outside way too long. Keep soaking all four cylinders but don't force it free... eventually it will loosen up then you can pull it and strip for a decent inspection. If the bottom end is good, then you might get away with a simple honing or if not, a 1st oversize bore job.

I wouldn't recommend that 350 for your vehicle. You might get away with a small V-6, but either one would detract from its restored value. Work with what you have - it's all you really need.

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by Alex Blair

Mike.
What I am seeing is a badly carboned up engine..No idea what the bottom end is like but the valves are not all burned up and split..a good sign..and once you pull the engine and can see what is going on down below you will have a better idea..
That happens when they spend a lot of time idling and slow..low RPM operation..
Rich on the fuel under these conditions..hence the carbon..
IF all the other tune up points ..timing..carb...valve..etc.adjustments are in spec..
Anyway press on..Keep the pix coming..
You are doing fine.
One more thing..DON'T let your "Car Buddies"..talk you into pounding those pistons down "JUst to see if..."...what ever..
Pull the engine.take off the pan..disconnect the connecting rods ..then you can use a wooden block and tap them to break them loose...but don't attempt until disconnecting the connecting rods and rotating the crank to clear the rods..mark your end caps to each connecting rod and the way they are facing before you pull them apart and throw them in a box..
What I used to do was as I was disassembling... I had a big piece of heavy cardboard and I would put slits in the card board and I would position the components on the card board exactly in the direction..number..combination..of all the components as I took them off ..that way I didn't mix up my end caps..rods..valves..pushrods ,main bearing caps etc..and I knew what went where when ever I got the rest of the short block finished...things look a lot better when you know where every thing goes and which way it came out..

taking the engine out of the jeep and disassembling the bottom end is a whole new ball game for me :S.

- what would I be looking for on the bottom end? it does still have oil when I check the dip stick.

- why do I need to disconnect the rods before hitting the pistons with the wood ontop?

the carb is stuck, it seems untouched. my neighbor has access to a ultrasonic cleaner, but should I just see if I can free it myself befor disassembling and rebuilding? by spraying wd40 all over and inside.

the ignition has new points and condenser or they look bran new.

Originally Posted by Geoff Winnington-Ball

As Alex said, that engine doesn't look too bad - the valves look great, even on no. 4 cylinder. It's just been sitting outside way too long. Keep soaking all four cylinders but don't force it free... eventually it will loosen up then you can pull it and strip for a decent inspection. If the bottom end is good, then you might get away with a simple honing or if not, a 1st oversize bore job.

I wouldn't recommend that 350 for your vehicle. You might get away with a small V-6, but either one would detract from its restored value. Work with what you have - it's all you really need.

what should I soak the cylinders with?
diesel? (should I clean out the carbon somehow)

I agree I was hesitant about the 350 and after talking to other owners it seems the 350 would grenade the transmission. I never did like the idea of using another engine in this jeep, I love the original bits

[cantankrs]

Originally Posted by Speedy

- why do I need to disconnect the rods before hitting the pistons with the wood ontop?

what should I soak the cylinders with?
diesel? (should I clean out the carbon somehow)

Hi Speedy,

You should disconnect the rod big-ends (maybe even pull the crank out but mark the pistons, rod caps and main bearing caps for position and direction first (don't forget the pistons-mark the front side)) so that each cylinder can be treated individually. If you thump on a nice fitting block of wood on one piston (preferably round and gotta be flat if a flat piston crown) then the shock is trying to transfer to all the other 3 pistons via the crank and rods. And that's not good for the rods or bearings or gears/chain or valve train.

Also I've experienced agro from an engine rod flopping and one of the big-end studs marking a crank journal - NOT something you want to happen to your pride and joy!! So if the big end bolts don't come out (not personally familiar with jeeps) then find some plastic or rubber hose that is a snug fit over the threads (so it won't fall off on ya) and cut bits off to slip over the threads to save your crank from being marked. You could try tape but needs to be thick enough and might not want to stick.

Some engine blocks don't allow for the pistons to be removed out the bottom due to insufficient size/clearances. So you can only knock them down so far (carefully) and then have to push from the bottom up using a different bit of wood. If the stroke of the motor is long enough and there's enough clearance with the casting then they will come out below (e.g. Fordson E27N tractor has long enough stroke and enough mains casting clearance for piston with rod to come out without removing crank I think).

Also (dunno about jeeps) retorquing bigend bolts would be risky if the bolts have been strained before. Replacing them with new especially in diesels is probably advisable.

I've heard that old automatic transmission fluid is a good at getting past stuck rings - just takes a fair while - perhaps months.

I've read that not too stiff rotary wirebrushes in a drill can clean off carbon - so long as it doesn't remove metal then should be OK.

Regards

Alex

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Speedy

taking the engine out of the jeep and disassembling the bottom end is a whole new ball game for me :S.

- what would I be looking for on the bottom end? it does still have oil when I check the dip stick.

- why do I need to disconnect the rods before hitting the pistons with the wood ontop?

the carb is stuck, it seems untouched. my neighbor has access to a ultrasonic cleaner, but should I just see if I can free it myself befor disassembling and rebuilding? by spraying wd40 all over and inside.

the ignition has new points and condenser or they look bran new.



what should I soak the cylinders with?
diesel? (should I clean out the carbon somehow)

I agree I was hesitant about the 350 and after talking to other owners it seems the 350 would grenade the transmission. I never did like the idea of using another engine in this jeep, I love the original bits

Mike..
Your questions are sincere and pretty intelligent..but your youth..exuberance and inexperience shows immediately....which is a good thing/....I am willing to help anyone that needs it but have little patience or time for a know it all..
Which is not you..
Keep the questions coming and print out the two responses from Alex Blair and Alex McDougal...Canada..and Australia...miles apart physically but together in our evaluations of your postings..
Alex Mc is giving you excellent advise...read and heed..
The Other uncle Alex

[Speedy]

thank you Alex Blair and Alex McDougal

I thought that hitting the tops of a piston wouldnt hurt much, but now I see these hits differ from the normal engine running.

I am going to take Alex's advice and print out and save the replies to help me out. I want to do everything exactly how I have been told to do it, but I lack the tools and space to pull the motor at this time.

my uncle agreed to help me out, and he has the tools so I may need to wait awhile befor I can start more work. this step would involve trailering my jeep a distance away, which would mean less time to work on it.

I will do what i can now, clean the pistons and let them soak.

so I am afraid updates will be slower now.
unless I try finding another area to work on.

[Grant Bowker]

I don't know how well the high schools and colleges in your part of Ontario are for auto shops but have you considered signing up for a night course in auto mechaniscs?
They might be glad to have you bring your engine in as one of the course projects although you might want to discuss it with the instructors first to be sure you and they have similar views on how original it needs to be, how many parts need to be saved as opposed to replaced? etc. If you can find a course that caters to people who want to restore an older vehicle it might be a better fit than a course aimed at someone with a newer vehicle that was designed to replace assemblies rather than refurbish individual parts.

[maple_leaf_eh]

The bright side to you Jeep project is what Bob Carriere told me. With a parts manual and enough money, a Jeep can be rebuilt from parts starting with one bolt. This is North America, and enough Jeeps and parts are in circulation. The Internet has made guys in Australia, Ottawa, Toronto and Hammond get serious about coaching.

Taking apart a Jeep engine will need tools, space and some muscle. As Alex posted, there is organization reqd. But I've known bachelors who rebuilt their motorcycles in the living room. (Heck there is a Winnipeg forum member who rebuilt his Universal Carrier inside, and had a spray booth next to the dining table!) You will learn about mechanics. Period.

And, as my friend Chris says, 'the boat build the builder'.