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  #1  
Old 18-05-10, 21:58
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
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Default Rusted box

Richard that rusty box is not the tool box from the front left, because it would also have the rebate for the bell crank in it. I'd say it was made for where it is, due to the angle the rod runs under it at..... Underkistumble?
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
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  #2  
Old 19-05-10, 02:30
cantankrs cantankrs is offline
Alex McDougall
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kalgoorlie, Western Australia
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Default Well Done!

Congratulations Erik!

And I am astounded at the condition after all those years uncovered. Here in Australia Carriers seem to suffer far worse from rust than yours!!

Regards

Alex
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  #3  
Old 19-05-10, 03:38
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pzrwest pzrwest is offline
Harold
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Cardiff Ontario
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Default

You know you can always use the hand crank to start the motor if you don't have a starter for it.... just need a good arm, alot of determination, some elbow greese, and a good supply of cuss words!!.. I know that wasn't funny but I just had to throw that in .... LOL .... Harold
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  #4  
Old 19-05-10, 08:03
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Philliphastings Philliphastings is offline
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Location: Sunny Australia
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Default

In fact the Mk1 British manual for my Scout Carrier recommends always using the hand crank to start UNLESS the engine is already warmed up !

Cheers

Phill
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  #5  
Old 19-05-10, 13:24
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charlie fitton charlie fitton is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Maryhill Ontario
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Default starting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philliphastings View Post
In fact the Mk1 British manual for my Scout Carrier recommends always using the hand crank to start UNLESS the engine is already warmed up !
...mine cranks easier ( by hand) than the landrover, and it starts ever so gently...
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too many carriers
too many rovers
not enough time.
(and now a BSA...)
(and now a Triumph TRW...)
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  #6  
Old 22-05-10, 22:15
Cletracker Cletracker is offline
Erik Stenvall
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sweden
Posts: 61
Default Ignition parts

After cleaning the tub I´m now focusing on getting some life in the motor. The distributor had had a hard life and is in need of a new rotor, coil, contact points, condenser and a few gaskets. When looking at new parts I can go for the original stuff or there is a coil adaptor kit making it 12V or I can go for an electronic distributor type MALLORY. What would you do? Primarily I´ll try to make this UC a driver so 100% originality is not a requirement for the moment.
Regards
Erik
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  #7  
Old 23-05-10, 05:29
cantankrs cantankrs is offline
Alex McDougall
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kalgoorlie, Western Australia
Posts: 200
Default Ford SV V8 Distributor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cletracker View Post
...or I can go for an electronic distributor type MALLORY. What would you do? Primarily...100% originality is not a requirement for the moment.
Hi Erik,

I'll be interested in others responses to your questions too.

I think the dizzy in these motors is rather hard to get to in-situ. So that makes me think a Mallory electronic dizzy could be a satisfactory way to go, subject to cost. Should be no point gap or dwell to worry about??

Regards

Alex
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