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  #1  
Old 25-06-10, 01:27
antonio antonio is offline
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Hey i just got a new Leece Neville alternator, but it has a metal connection between the (+) and the #1D... since such a connection is not on any of my previous alternator, is that supposed to be there or was that used during the testing or something and it was forgotten?
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Old 25-06-10, 06:02
markcos markcos is offline
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is it a 100 amp or a 60 amp alt
??? they have differant regulators .
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  #3  
Old 25-06-10, 15:21
rob love rob love is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antonio View Post
Hey i just got a new Leece Neville alternator, but it has a metal connection between the (+) and the #1D... since such a connection is not on any of my previous alternator, is that supposed to be there or was that used during the testing or something and it was forgotten?
That is likely the bridge I was talking about earlier that was supposed to be removed. With it in place, the master battery switch is defeated and the vehicle will have power even with the key removed.
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Old 26-07-10, 03:33
antonio antonio is offline
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Hey Stuart,

Yes removing the bridge as rob said did make the new alternator work perfect. I seems like i tried originally to replace a bad alternator with another bad one!

I am still on the look out for the possibility to buy just the regulator tho, but the common places like Napa and midwest auto don't have such things.... After talking to a mechanic, he mentionned i could, if i'm desperate, buy an external 24v regulator and mount is externally... but i'll need to research that a bit more before doing it.

Thanks for all the help!
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  #5  
Old 26-07-10, 07:21
antonio antonio is offline
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Default Iltis Alternator Bridge removal.

I only removed the bridge between the (+) and the 1D bolt, just to make it like the other alternators we have. Although I assumed its a 60 amps, I'll have to look again at the serial number. I do remember that it is a Leece-Neville. I'll check next time, but it has been running fine since I removed that 1 bridge.

Thanks for those links! Thats was I was looking for! And as for those brush springs... hehe i did take one regulator out to see what it looked like, but i haven't figured out a way to put it back with those dam brush springs! But I'm sure i'll figure it out sooner or later!
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  #6  
Old 12-04-12, 19:32
rob love rob love is offline
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You flashed generators: I have yet to run across an alternator that ever needed it. Best bet is to scrap the entire Iltis and buy a M38A1.
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  #7  
Old 13-04-12, 01:38
rob love rob love is offline
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Yep, there it is in black and white. However, as I said, I never, ever had to flash an alternator, whether it was NOS, rebuilt, from long term storage, or just assembled from spare parts.

I know I said it earlier in this thread, but I'll say it again for emphasis: the alternators on the Iltis were not that bad. What was bad was the connection at the starter, and in particular, the connections on the batteries. When one of these worked loose, the driver would eventually stop his truck because of the very strong acid smell, and wait for us to catch up to the convoy. We were the last vehicle, behind the ambulance, and would usually be somewhat free running to every McDonalds or truck stop within a mile or two of the convoy route. Changin the alternator of course, was not enough. And usually, simply fixing the lose connections was not enough either, as the damage to the regulator was already done.

Why the army did not re-design the battery compartments on the Iltis to open from the top, or relocate them altogether under the hood in those storage compartments, is beyond me. Their location was a constant point of frustration over the 20 years that I worked on them. Operators just could not get it right: the number one rule about batteries (and one night stands) : clean and tight..
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  #8  
Old 13-04-12, 03:30
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Default Alternators..

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob love View Post
Yep, there it is in black and white. However, as I said, I never, ever had to flash an alternator, whether it was NOS, rebuilt, from long term storage, or just assembled from spare parts.

I know I said it earlier in this thread, but I'll say it again for emphasis: the alternators on the Iltis were not that bad. What was bad was the connection at the starter, and in particular, the connections on the batteries. When one of these worked loose, the driver would eventually stop his truck because of the very strong acid smell, and wait for us to catch up to the convoy. We were the last vehicle, behind the ambulance, and would usually be somewhat free running to every McDonalds or truck stop within a mile or two of the convoy route. Changin the alternator of course, was not enough. And usually, simply fixing the lose connections was not enough either, as the damage to the regulator was already done.

Why the army did not re-design the battery compartments on the Iltis to open from the top, or relocate them altogether under the hood in those storage compartments, is beyond me. Their location was a constant point of frustration over the 20 years that I worked on them. Operators just could not get it right: the number one rule about batteries (and one night stands) : clean and tight..
Rob..
Of course you are right..alternators produce AC current which is rectified through the diodes to produce DC voltage..they don't require polarization....'flashing"...
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