body work for a newbie

[ahleeds]

hi there
the only thing i can add is on cutting out the rusty hole for repair . I always cut the new patch first then lay your new peice over the rusty spot and trace around it with a jiffy marker or paint marker . Then you can cut out the rust with a zip disk grinder exactly following on the marker line . Then you know your patch will fit perfect the first time , hold in place with magnets ,and your weld gap should be perfect as long as you use the very thin zip discs to cut out the rust spot.
good luck Anthony

[cantankrs]

Anthony wrote:

Originally Posted by ahleeds

I always cut the new patch first then lay your new peice over the rusty spot and ... cut out the rust

Whereas ozm29c John Wilson wrote

14...determine the extent of rust damage. Once you have cut the rust out of a particular area, then and only then is when you will know where to start your repairs

I've cut and shaped patches only to find that the rust extends further than I realised. Rusty spots usually turn out to be larger than they initially appear from the outside. Perhaps the best method is a compromise between the two ideas - cutout almost to the edge of the rust and when you're satisfied that both sides are almost clear of it - make and shape your patch a bit oversize and then overlay it. Drilling and using pop rivets or self tappers at the overlap and then saw or slit is also an idea but would need a couple of mig pulls to fill each hole that remains.

Alex

[ozm29c]

Originally Posted by cantankrs

Anthony wrote:


Whereas ozm29c John Wilson wrote


I've cut and shaped patches only to find that the rust extends further than I realised. Rusty spots usually turn out to be larger than they initially appear from the outside. Perhaps the best method is a compromise between the two ideas - cutout almost to the edge of the rust and when you're satisfied that both sides are almost clear of it - make and shape your patch a bit oversize and then overlay it. Drilling and using pop rivets or self tappers at the overlap and then saw or slit is also an idea but would need a couple of mig pulls to fill each hole that remains.

Alex

Alex,
Once you become an 'Artiste' with MIG welding techniques, Making replacement patches to fill holes is an easy task. Also MIG welding is very forgiving and it is easy to fill holes/gaps that either exceed 1mm or holes that you have made an 'error of judgment' shaping the patch.
I would not get too flustered about finding more rust behind a section that you have just removed. Here are some photos of my weasel repair to give you an example.
Cheers
John W.

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by ozm29c

Alex,
Once you become an 'Artiste' with MIG welding techniques, Making replacement patches to fill holes is an easy task. Also MIG welding is very forgiving and it is easy to fill holes/gaps that either exceed 1mm or holes that you have made an 'error of judgment' shaping the patch.
I would not get too flustered about finding more rust behind a section that you have just removed. Here are some photos of my weasel repair to give you an example.
Cheers
John W.

WOW

here is todays attempts much better
bottom weld = todays


bottom again

[Mike K]

This is the book I found most handy //written in laymens language

http://www.bevenyoung.com.au/prdt502.htm

[Speedy]

thanks! I liked millers videos.
I made one fast because someone asked

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Tw8oBdqm7s

I dont think any attempts will be taken today, busy

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Speedy

thanks! I liked millers videos.
I made one fast because someone asked

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Tw8oBdqm7s

I dont think any attempts will be taken today, busy

You are welding a row of individual tacks, rather than a long even bead ... Normally, the idea is to weld at least 1" long beads betwen the tacks before stopping . Distortion is always a problem with flat panels ... I guess your method does get around that problem nicely , but the downside is a bumby rough series of tacks instead of a long smooth bead

MIKE