body work for a newbie

[ozm29c]

Originally Posted by cantankrs

Anthony wrote:


Whereas ozm29c John Wilson wrote


I've cut and shaped patches only to find that the rust extends further than I realised. Rusty spots usually turn out to be larger than they initially appear from the outside. Perhaps the best method is a compromise between the two ideas - cutout almost to the edge of the rust and when you're satisfied that both sides are almost clear of it - make and shape your patch a bit oversize and then overlay it. Drilling and using pop rivets or self tappers at the overlap and then saw or slit is also an idea but would need a couple of mig pulls to fill each hole that remains.

Alex

Alex,
Once you become an 'Artiste' with MIG welding techniques, Making replacement patches to fill holes is an easy task. Also MIG welding is very forgiving and it is easy to fill holes/gaps that either exceed 1mm or holes that you have made an 'error of judgment' shaping the patch.
I would not get too flustered about finding more rust behind a section that you have just removed. Here are some photos of my weasel repair to give you an example.
Cheers
John W.

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by ozm29c

Alex,
Once you become an 'Artiste' with MIG welding techniques, Making replacement patches to fill holes is an easy task. Also MIG welding is very forgiving and it is easy to fill holes/gaps that either exceed 1mm or holes that you have made an 'error of judgment' shaping the patch.
I would not get too flustered about finding more rust behind a section that you have just removed. Here are some photos of my weasel repair to give you an example.
Cheers
John W.

WOW

here is todays attempts much better
bottom weld = todays


bottom again

[Mike K]

This is the book I found most handy //written in laymens language

http://www.bevenyoung.com.au/prdt502.htm

[Speedy]

thanks! I liked millers videos.
I made one fast because someone asked

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Tw8oBdqm7s

I dont think any attempts will be taken today, busy

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Speedy

thanks! I liked millers videos.
I made one fast because someone asked

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Tw8oBdqm7s

I dont think any attempts will be taken today, busy

You are welding a row of individual tacks, rather than a long even bead ... Normally, the idea is to weld at least 1" long beads betwen the tacks before stopping . Distortion is always a problem with flat panels ... I guess your method does get around that problem nicely , but the downside is a bumby rough series of tacks instead of a long smooth bead

MIKE

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

You are welding a row of individual tacks, rather than a long even bead ... Normally, the idea is to weld at least 1" long beads betwen the tacks before stopping . Distortion is always a problem with flat panels ... I guess your method does get around that problem nicely , but the downside is a bumby rough series of tacks instead of a long smooth bead

MIKE

everyone on welding forums said the best way is to do small tacks.
I am going to try a small bead. still learning and practicing so I will try every thing.

I am liking the tacks. im guessing the bumpyness after grinding would be covered with body filler? (thats the next area I need help with)

so I did another attempt. this time I tried rotating the torch and took down my wire speed some.










only thing, it warps way to easy. I am thinking when I work on my jeep I will do some anchoring welds like that then turn it down some where I can control it easier.

im sure it would hold.

[hrpearce]

Try a run with a bigger gap between the plates it shoud improve your penentration and cut back on the height of the weld that needs grinding.

[Matthew Reid]

I'm No welder by any stretch but can stick stuff together with out it falling apart.

And everyone has their own method for doing light guage metal.
The trick is to find what works best for you.

For me the voltage your using is not near high enough and is leaving welds that are sticking up.

On your last photos your getting closer in a couple spots to full penetration as you can see on the back side where the gap has been welded closed. That is what you want to strive for.

Give this vidieo a look at.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JohBH...eature=related


I use the same method for body panels and all light gauge metals. High heat short weld time with a cool down in between each spot weld and after few spots let the area cool to prevent warpage.
My machine does not have a weld time setting but you can do that on your own and after some practice you can get the spot welds all identical.

I personally prefer this method as pentration is guarenteed and it leaves a low weld that is easy to dress. Perfect for body panels.

While your waiting for the most recent welded area to cool you can spot up another location if the piece is large enough. If you want to speed up the proesses you can help speed the cooling with blast from your air compressor.
That will aso help from over heating and warping the surrounding metal.

This is not the fastest method to join light gauge metal, but if you have to dress the weld, the time is recovered in dressing out the welded areas and can usally be done with just a flapper wheel on a grinder. The bonus is it does not take huge amounts of skill to master this technique.

Matthew