Carrier Scout Mark 1 L

[Lynn Eades]

Here a top veiw of part of the engine cover.
A closer veiw of where the rear folding plate shoud be. one half of each hinge remains in place. The picture also shows on the left, the bracket for the jack handle stowage, and on the right, for the crank handle.
The original British steering wheel. Anyone have a spare?
My veiw of what I saw, Is that Phillip has a very tidy, almost all there, surface rust only, easy to restore, one off in the world, Scout carrier, with a history. I am extremely jealous!
There is some work to be done in repairing/replacing plates, sorting out the power unit etc., but a sand blast, and and paint will bring her up beautifully.

Colin Jones, would a man of your skills be able to patch those holes in the sides, or would you replace the plates?

I have questions for Nigel (Watson)

Q1. Nigel, the plate on the carrier states clearly enough that the T number is
T5329. The 74th in a batch of 296, that started at T5255, RMY609. If the were numbered consecutively This would make this carrier RMY682.
As RMY681 was built with the low front idler, Does this make this the first Scout built by Aveling Barford with the High idlers and later front guards?

Q2. The contract number on the plate is clearly C879 How does this fit into contract no. T6024? (what would tha prefix letter relate to?)

Q3 When were Nuffields contracts let, in relation to A.B. (before, after, same time) and how many did Nuffield build with low/ high idlers?

[Lynn Eades]

Re our discussion about gear levers, gates etc. Here is a couple of pics, showing, at bottom, the standard universal front end, and above is the one from my N.Z. LP (1) which is the same as the pre war Brens, and as I remember is the same as your Scout. (The gate is from my LP as well)
The Bren, Scout, and the NZ LP used a much shorter gear lever, which had a shorter effective length, in as much as the front bracket in the picture connects to the gear lever much higher up. With the short lever this would mean a stronger arm would be required, but the throw would be shorter.

[Philliphastings]

Hi Lynn,

Thanks for posting up those pics. I got a bee in my bonnet on saturday and manufactured both Battery box replacement side armour plates as well as the rear folding armour plate. They need only be drilled and sand blasted and ready to go !

I had no luck sourcing a local steel fabricator/supplier to manufacture the replacement side plates so I will gather quotes in Perth and have them done professionally. Even adding the cost of freight it is cheaper than trying to get work done local.

The unusual mounting box you have posted up images of is, I believe, the stowage for the Wireless set remote control unit and spare valves box. At least that's my best guess and as both units fit perfectly, and the box mounts perfectly in the right place in the Scout, then that's where I intend to put it.

On the subject of engines, the one you saw is out of a 1937 Ford Coupe Utility and is in fact the engine which was replaced by the original Scout engine. It need a replacement piston fitten and it will need to be carefully drilled for the carrier oil cooler outlet but seems to be ideal to fit to the machine.

It is amazing how small parts keep turning up and yesterday I found one of the pivots with grease fitting for the antenna mounting. Sand blasting the stripped down hull will be a major landmark in the rebuild and will have to be done in Perth as well. From that moment on the rebuild will begin in earnest.

I have satisfied myself that olive drab lustreless paint was applied at the factory and have ordered a batch in the exact same colour tone and it turned out to be surprisingly affordable. I have found evidence of the dreaded re-lead primer in a few spots low in the hull and wonder what was likely to have been used at the factory. I have opted for red oxide zinc primer at this early stage.

Cheers

Phill

[Lynn Eades]

I need some carefully measured dimensions please;
1. a to b. Hull div. plate out side to air duct cut out (is a to b the same as the opposite side?)
2. a to c. measurement down,
3. a to d. top of div plate to top of guard
4. i to j. depth of radiator hole
5. f to g. depth of front gun slot from top edge (f is hard to see)
6. f to h. width of gun slot
7. e to c. width of air duct cut out.
8. over all width of div plate (b to far side)

You will have to enlarge the picture to see the letters.