Richie's Mk1 Restoration

[kevin powles]

Shaun, Yes the chisel like hammer marks, when I made my gunners front plate i devised a method of applying those marks, get a fairly large size quality new hardedend allen key, hold the short bent over end in your hand and lay the other end against the plate with one of the allen key ridges touching the plate, hold it at angle and hit the opposite allen key ridge with a good size lump hammer once only. What you get then on the plate is a triangle indent mark, do the same thing 180 degrees round from your first mark, carefully aligning the allen key to the first mark. What you end up with is a almost exact replication of those marks, practice first on a piece of metal to perfect it, where gloves when doing it, the allen key will be no use after making say 20 marks but you can then use the remaining ridges on it until all the allen key points are peaned over and then it's no use for anything.

Go to a car boat sale and get aload of allen keys for next to nothing.

A little time consuming but it is the detail in a restoration that matters.

Kevin.

[shaun]

Good method Kevin, they are not accutaly hammer marks, the process uses a very large press with a row of finger like tools prushing down and supports below. the sheet of armour is slid into the press by hand and the skilled operator eyes up the high spots and then places it under the fingers, he then brings the tool down on that area, some times the plate will need to be turned a little to get a different area, hence the differt angles and spacing of the marks.

[RichardT10829]

yes i do want to do it, i was going to ask one of our Canadian cousins or someone on our rock to take a rubbing on grease proof paper for me (for each pannel) then tape this to the plate and hammer a special chisel i am making over each mark until the entire plate is done

as for the rivets the bottoms ones you see are screw type as per previous discussions... however a pal of mine as a chicago pneumatic rivet gun so i may go back to solid riveting pending on a few things i have to iron out as yet.

i can turn the rivets out quickly on the lathe drilling them then running an m6 tap down
them. The lathe i had access to was at a college and they are running night classes now so cant get access again (hence my advert wanting a lathe)

[RichardT10829]

well now that the carrier is out of the way and i cant do much with it i have started to clean and degrease my engine. usually i like to send these off for steam clean and chemical clean but this time around i went for gizer and preasure wash... the block came up rather nice.. the mains are shot (well the center and front main) the crank has been reground so just need to get some shells sortid for it i am still trying to figure out which engine it is, it appears to have the 81A heads.... there is 99 embossed in the block which i am unsure of ?

one thing i have found out is the 1060 number i queried on the top of the pistons is also in the block and i have noticed that this refers to the job number which was put in by Torgis engineering march 1945 this is also on the brass plate on the bell housing.


i have yet to extract the studs using a stud box (i despise seeing stilsons being used to take studs out) that will be done tomorrow followed by some rubbing down and then painting ready for when its rebuilt.

there is a small hole in the sump tray in the bellhousing section and although it does not need to contain oil it looks unsightly so will weld it up.

[Lynn Eades]

If you mean the hole with the splitpin. Its to let the oil out if any small leak develops in there. It stops it pooling, and then being picked up in the clutch.
99T is a 1939 to 41 100 hp block. How about a close up picture of the fittings at the back of the block, for the oil cooler.

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

i have yet to extract the studs using a stud box (i despise seeing stilsons being used to take studs out)

Richie

A handy way to get the studs out is simply to put two nuts on the same stud and do them up so they are together. This has the effect of 'locking' them onto the stud. Then put the ring spanner (dont use and open ender or a shifter) on the bottom one and start to undo. Should get em out with no marks and no hassles.

[ajmac]

Richie,
Any idea of the year of production? The block has the core plugs in the bottom of the block which was dropped quite early on in the war, so could be a good match for your carrier. Is it also a Canadian unit? My crank is 0.030" on mains and big ends, but is rather deeply scored so will have to go 0.060", yesterday I took the crank from the Loyd range wreck, it turned out to be again a 30 thou job, but as it was virtually never run following rebuild it can be used as is!

[RichardT10829]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Richie

A handy way to get the studs out is simply to put two nuts on the same stud and do them up so they are together. This has the effect of 'locking' them onto the stud. Then put the ring spanner (dont use and open ender or a shifter) on the bottom one and start to undo. Should get em out with no marks and no hassles.

yes that would be a stud box where i am from dude hahahahahaha there are propper ones on the market but doing the nut method is what i usually do

[RichardT10829]

engine is canadian built 24 stud unit and was last serviced in 1945 so methinks it may be an earlier one.

the mains and big ends were on 010 thou and the bore is 030 oversize using a three ring piston.

Lynn i will get some close ups. it is not the pin where the hole is mate, that is bit is ok its up one side and has rotted through i could weld it up or tidy the mess into a nice hole for further drainage.....will most likely weld it though.

i think i managed to reveal bits of the original paint which i can only describe as a very dark grey...may not be original but it was like a hard enamel and there was nothing else under it ?

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

yes that would be a stud box where i am from dude hahahahahaha there are propper ones on the market but doing the nut method is what i usually do

Richie,

To be correct, a stud box is for fitting studs. It is usually made from a piece of hex bar threaded all the way through with a set screw in one end, when the hex is screwed on to a stud, the set screw or bolt is tightened down and stud wound in. They do not work in a unscrewing motion, for that you need one of the different types of stud remover, or as Tony says, two nuts locked together, which works well in the absence of a tool.