Cmp c15a gs

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Joel ..
What you have is a C-15A..with GM Diffs..
You are in the right place...
Get your kids on the forum and ask away..this is the best and biggest in the world when it comes to CMP Knowlege.
Alex Blair
Ottawa
There are reproduction manuals for the parts and maintenance of the C15-A

C-15..Two Wheel drive..
C-15A 4 wheel drive.
Here are the manuals you need..

#2: 150 pages Bodies Part List Illustrated, for CMP vehicles, G.S. (Wood and Steel), F.A.T. W-35 Wrecker, Water Tanker, Etc., 34 plates, issued by Dept. of Munitions & Supply, Canada. Oct. '41.

#3: 300+ pages MB-C2 Maintenance Manual, for GM CMP vehicles. 15 cwt 4x2, 15 cwt. 4x4, 30 cwt 4x4, 3 ton 4x4 HU 4x4, F.A.T. 4x4. Sept. 1943

#3A 300+ pages GM Service Bulletins Updates for MB-C2(May-November 1943).. ***These bulletins were issued to the field maintenance shops for upgrades to the CMP vehicles.. Many procedures in the bulletins and additions did not make the maintenance manuals.

#6: 280 pages C15A-04 CHEV. ILLUST. SPARE PARTS LIST, 15 CWT 4X4. MODEL C15A - CHASSIS 8444 101 W.B., CDN. MIL. PATTERN (INCLUDES C15A-01, 02, 03, 04 MODELS) (MAY '45) BODY OPTIONS:- VAN, OFFICE, WATER TANK, WIRELESS, CABLE LAYER, PERSONNEL, BATTERY CHARGER, AND GENERAL SERVICE.

These can be purchaces from Grant Bowker at
Grant 613-749-2551 Bowker <g.bowker@cyberus.ca>;
Grant Bowker <canadianmanuals@yahoo.ca>;
If the manuals collections was still mine I would donate the manuals to the school for the kids ..as I did a few years ago when another school was doing a restoration project on a Canadian CMP truck..but I'm sure Grant will work something out with you..
Love to see kids interested in CMP restoration.

[Joel Culliford]

Well this may seem silly but do we have the right order of spark plugs, there seems to be some disagreement on how they should go.



Any help would be greatly appreciated

Joel

[hrpearce]

153624

[Private_collector]

Hello Joel and crew (or G'day perhaps),

You have chosen wisely with these vehicles.
Apart from the skills gained and experience of bringing a vintage vehicle 'back from the brink', you will no doubt find much information on 'how to' as manuals readily available online and parts sourced fairly easily.

Personally, I have found the guys & girls on Maple Leaf Up have a collective knowledge second to none!

All the best with the restoration. Seems to be off to a great start so far.

Don't forget to post lots of photos as you progress!!!!!!!

Tony B

P.S: Pity it wasn't a Ford, but no-one's perfect :-)

[Joel Culliford]

Here are a couple of questions, what colour should the chassis be painted...black, green or the colour of the body (ie brown)?? and where to find a t-valve like this



Joel

[Mike K]

Joel

I had a look at your web page. That is a very nice unmolested truck to begin with.

What is wrong with the fuel tank selector ? If you give it a good clean it will probably work fine . If it leaks try lapping in the barrel with some fine valve grinding paste .

The chassis would normally be the same colour as the rest of the truck.

Mike

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Joel

I love the suggestion from Alex.... have the kids write in their questions...

You will get a whole bunch of responses for all of us.....

Most parts can still be found but not at your Canadian tire.

There are some specialized OMVA flea markets events that will cater to our CMP needs..... otherwise some members may have spare parts to share or sell. I have a familiar saying that you cannot restore a CMP without have at least another one for parts.... you are fortunate that yours is in very good condition.

Your fuel valve seems to be missing the bottom washer/spring/nut assembly...
that assembly tends to be hard to replace or find parts for...... memebrs at large may have spare parts available.

On your rims..... most of us old guys have given up trying to remove old tires that have been rust welded to the rim for 60 years and refer to rural tractor/truck tire shops who usually will do the job....safely.... for $15 to $20 each....... I have stood the front end of a farm 4 ton tractor on the edge of old CMP tires without breaking the bead. with due consideration for safety $100 for the 5 wheels is cheap.

On the rims..... hang them from a rope and wack with a hammer.... make sure they rign like a bell..... if dull sound is heard it is cracked. After sandlasting make sure that teh rust pitting is not too deep as to render the whel unsafe..... at the very least half of the steel should be left in deep piths...... some time i the rust is all in the same bottom section.... better replace than risk injury... that would really kill your project.

At 50n pounds of pressure these tires can kill you if the separate..... make sure the studs and nuts are in good shape or ask for replacements.... and you will only find them on MLU not at a tire store..... thread are British Wentworth odd arrangement.

So fire away with the questions and include photos as some of us can't read !!!!!

Bob C.

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Joel Culliford

Here are a couple of questions, what colour should the chassis be painted...black, green or the colour of the body (ie brown)?? and where to find a t-valve like this

I just took mine apart, cleaned it and reassembled with new O rings. I put an electric pump after this point as it sure helps when starting the motor or switching Gas tanks. But I never found any compatible fittings and ended up using hose clamps type fittings.

[Joel Culliford]

Well the tires are FINALLY done..one of the students decided it was his personel mission to get the tires off the rims.

The students cranked the engine over to find out that the fly wheel is loose, the now the whole transmission has to come off.

The hatch for this CMP is the rectangle one, I've found some info but not alot. I believe I will start a thread to gather info on it.

What I am trying to find is what modern paint colour is the same as British Standard Camouflage Color No. 2. We are hoping that if we can get a paint number that one of the local companies will donate it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Joel Culliford

Here are a couple of questions, what colour should the chassis be painted...black, green or the colour of the body (ie brown)?? and where to find a t-valve like this


Joel

As Harry has said, your fuel tank tap appears to be in good nick from the photos fellahs, so clean her up, and it should work fine.

Mine looked very similar to yours when I found it. All I did was pull it apart, clean the crap out & put it back together.

To create new and clean fuel lines I used rubber fuel hose (good stuff that'll handle injection pressure levels) and used double flared brake line with threaded brake line nuts.

Between the tap and the tank I chucked in some in line fuel filters. Not original, but very reliable and who's gonna know except yourselves?

[Bob Carriere]

Joel

If you look at Tony's picture you will see that he used a specail brass fitting easy to find at CarQuest or CTC..... it has a male pipe thread at one end to fit into the valve body.... the other side of the fitting is designed to take a 1/4 inch doubled flared steel brake line. The original assembly had 3 rubber lines going into and out of the valve body. This was done to deal with vibrations and body twist in severe driving conditions. I have found that Jeep 9 or 12 inch fuel lines fit perfectly..... I don't thing you need to go that far for a dependable running vehicle.

Can you post a picture of your valve body to show the back side where the nut and spring is located just want to make sure your assembly is complete.

It should clean up real nice using acetone or paint remover..... you can even shine it up with a cloth wheel and buffing compound.....when you take it apart you will find an internal tapered shaft..... if scratched or scored..... you can smear some valve griding compound on the tapered shaft.... use the fine stuff..... and insert the tapered stem and rotate by hand.... no need to fully re-assemble. once properly polished....clean thoroughly in gasoline.... re-assemble with a few drops of motor oil on the tapered shaft .... you need enough pressure on the spring at the bottom to keep it tight but loose enough to allow easy turning ... Fuel Filters are an essential part of a dependable system....

Color wise the whole underneath should be the same color as the overall shade of the truck. There are early WW II flat Olive drab green paint that very closely match what was initially applied at the Oshawa factory made by Gillespie number 34087 which I found to be a perfect match to the shade of OD green found under protected areas of my truck.

If you are thinking of camouflage colors with "Mickey Mouse ears" pattern seen in Britain or even Europe you are on your own..... not an expert in that area.

Bob C.