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  #1  
Old 17-05-11, 00:36
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Some thoughts on Marc's Comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Montgomery View Post
PAINT- dont fret enormously over this...
If you go to a gathering of CMPs, and put ten restored CMPs beside each other, you will see ten different shades of dull green.

HATCH- as far as anyone has been able to determine there is no correlation between round and square hatch and years of production, nor between Ford and Chev..

It is also possible that during the course of its life a vehicle coming out of the factory with one or the other. or none.. may have had the roof damaged and replaced with another one with or without a hatch or the other type of hatch.
Good points:

I think you are dead about the paint colors, if i remember correctly there has been a comment that this was one of the issues of the knock down kits and reassembly, that the end results often didn't quite match even when assembled. Any documentations to this comment?

The point about the square vs round vs no hatch at all. Yes the cab tops are supposed to be interchangeable. But are they interchangeable Ford to Chevy (I don't know) has any body tried swapping?

Cheers Phil

PS Joel your donor truck appears to have many use-able parts and actually might even be a restoration project in its self. So keep any of the parts from the prime truck with the donor. If at the end of your project the donor truck needs a home please post on MLU so that all use-able parts can be recycled, reused, re-tasked to another CMP project.

This is a project that the students working on it will never forget.
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  #2  
Old 17-05-11, 01:03
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Marc Montgomery Marc Montgomery is offline
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the cup shaped thing on the back wall of the cab (pic 3) is the remnants of an early style fire extinguisher bracket.

The small wood bathtub shaped thing in picture 2 looks like the rifle butt holder which mounts (with two large machine screws) on the floor beside, and slightly behind each seat, beneath the rifle holder shown in picture 6. This is good to have.. These were wood and are often rotted away. They have a slight angle to the inside "floor" of the cup, this matches the angle of the rifle butt when standing up. The two screw holes are countersunk, and there is a small drainage hole drilled at the back.

Always try to gently remove any and all screws and bolts. !! (it is worth the time to try to undo or unscrew them, rather than the sometimes faster route of breaking them to get them off...really try to work them free and recover them

someone has straightened out the arms on the pintle hook!

The rad grille is interesting..almost looks like half of the original grille, and half of a grille from an armoured Chev truck...I doubt it is , but in the picture it looks similar

The 44 you will notice has the lifting rings on the hubs front and rear.

the rusty cab wall at the mating joint between upper and lower cab halves is a very common place for rust,..also around the rear wall at the floor level.-

PS- PHIL- rumours of my death are greatly exaggerated
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Last edited by Marc Montgomery; 17-05-11 at 12:38.
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Old 17-05-11, 04:57
Adrian Rittner Adrian Rittner is offline
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Yes the 2nd CMP was delivered to the school today. It was miserably cold this morning and a bit of an ordeal getting it out as another dead vehicle was in the way. Transporting it was a bit scary. The box was not fastened so we strapped it down. Looked like many pieces were going to fall off or out of the box en route. There are many very decent and usable parts with the 2nd CMP. Front bumper hooks, tail pintle hook, two convoy lights, decent seat frames, rifle racks, extinguisher bracket, one wiper motor, two spare rads, spare gas tanks, rear window frame, and much more. Surprising the engine and frame is in excellent condition. The body not so much. It almost looks like the it was a restoration in progress that stopped many years ago. Only way to explain the quality of the chassis and how loosely the body was bolted on the frame. This vehicle has proven to be a good donor truck for this project and maybe back more. Unfortunately the tires are not matching and not very good. Although we will keep the best spare wheel and tire for the on truck spare. So the next step will be to raise funds for a set of four tires. That way once the rims return from the sandblasting shop with the cab and box, they can be painted and added to the main truck. This will allow the kids to move the chassis around the shop easily.
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Old 17-05-11, 05:17
Adrian Rittner Adrian Rittner is offline
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As we were off loading the 2nd CMP today, I too was thinking the same thing that both Phil and Marc are now noticing. The donor truck is actually not that bad. The powerplant, chassis, and pretty much everthing underneath is surprisingingly nice. Looks like someone started a restoration many moons ago. They must of lost interested and just quickly nuted the body back on for moving it. The poor elements about the vehicle is the body quit frankly. But thats just sheet metal if you think about it. Someone who is talented with metal work would actually appreciate this truck.
The front cowl in the picture is not the first one. Its in the back box burried under the other parts, judgeing by the colour. I don`t know why the yellowish one was added to the cab as it doesn`t seem be any better shape. Some of the louvers seemed to have been removed and a piece of expanded metal welded on. Seems wierd. The cab exterior walls are poor and floor bad, but again just sheet metal in comparison to other rarer parts. From what I could see in the brief chance I had to inspect, its really not that bad, better than I have seen for sure.
That being said I don`t want us to steal too much. Thankfully there are many spare parts in addition to this donor truck. And most of what we need are the little things, meaning nothing structural nor too depleting. I hesitate to steal the fly wheel as it would be alot of work and would hinder any future considerations. Really this could be a decent start to a seperate restoration for someones contemplation.
Joel and I will have to discuss and determine our needs first.
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Old 17-05-11, 12:41
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Marc Montgomery Marc Montgomery is offline
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note! about the tires/rims... be careful not to damage the inner rubber bands that "seal" the split rims and protect the tubes.! in their zeal, the students may not realize the importance of these thick rubber bands.
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Old 17-05-11, 15:40
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Flaps or spacers.....?

Hi Marc

Are you referring to the "flaps" which are easily available at truck tire shops about $15 each.....

...or the solid rubber spacer that fits between the beads and keeps the run flat from collapsing......? these are hard to find and not necessary for a modern tube type re-installation.

I have found that the flaps, if old and near original, are usually very hard/brittle and not worth saving.....having the rims sandblasted and painted reassembled with new tubes at about $25 and flaps $15......
....... not having to change a flat by the road side.....priceless.

Joel

When you are matching tires for the final installation...... it may be worth while to take a measurement tape and measure the full circumference of the tires....... the closer they are to the same size the easier it will be on the U joints and generaly reduce loading of the drive train components.

Our experience with different bar thread tires......different brands and same brand different manufacturing dates of 9:00 16 tires..... as much as 6 to 8 inches difference on the rolling distances/circumference.... some where 1 to 2 inches taller and this on NOS tires...... generally speaking the original 1940ish V shape thread tires seemed to be a lower profile than the modern reproduced bar thread tires.
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Old 19-05-11, 08:29
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Ken Hughes Ken Hughes is offline
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Yes the Chev and Ford cab tops and backs DO interchange and so does the doors and in a lot of cases the wings/mudguards,lube all the cage nuts that you can as they are worth saving ,even if you have to heat them before undoing.
A ford cab top can be identified by a continued seam weld from the drip rail around the corner,the Chev ones are spot welded.
As everything with these vehicles nothing is set in concrete as a standard,as things were changed depending on availability of product at the time.
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