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#1
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note! about the tires/rims... be careful not to damage the inner rubber bands that "seal" the split rims and protect the tubes.! in their zeal, the students may not realize the importance of these thick rubber bands.
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I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips, Straining upon the start. The game's afoot! |
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#2
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Hi Marc
Are you referring to the "flaps" which are easily available at truck tire shops about $15 each..... ...or the solid rubber spacer that fits between the beads and keeps the run flat from collapsing......? these are hard to find and not necessary for a modern tube type re-installation. I have found that the flaps, if old and near original, are usually very hard/brittle and not worth saving.....having the rims sandblasted and painted reassembled with new tubes at about $25 and flaps $15...... ....... not having to change a flat by the road side.....priceless. Joel When you are matching tires for the final installation...... it may be worth while to take a measurement tape and measure the full circumference of the tires....... the closer they are to the same size the easier it will be on the U joints and generaly reduce loading of the drive train components. Our experience with different bar thread tires......different brands and same brand different manufacturing dates of 9:00 16 tires..... as much as 6 to 8 inches difference on the rolling distances/circumference.... some where 1 to 2 inches taller and this on NOS tires...... generally speaking the original 1940ish V shape thread tires seemed to be a lower profile than the modern reproduced bar thread tires.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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#3
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Yes the Chev and Ford cab tops and backs DO interchange and so does the doors and in a lot of cases the wings/mudguards,lube all the cage nuts that you can as they are worth saving ,even if you have to heat them before undoing.
A ford cab top can be identified by a continued seam weld from the drip rail around the corner,the Chev ones are spot welded. As everything with these vehicles nothing is set in concrete as a standard,as things were changed depending on availability of product at the time.
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kenney |
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#4
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Well the parts truck does not want to give up it's parts. We just learned that a 44 CMP does not have the same steering column or flywheel as the 42 CMP. But if you change the box at the bottom of the steering column then you can use the 44 CMP column no problem. The flywheel...that is another story. The local Auto Parts Dealer, Youngs Automotive is searching for a new part, they have not let us down yet.
We also found that the lifting rings on the 44 CMP can not just be installed on the 42 CMP without having to replace the whole drum. Now we just need to remove the Rad overflow tank on the 44 CMP (under the body and see if we can clean it up and install it on the outside. On and we did replace the front bar since the original one had extra metal welded to it. We also found out that the local Muffler store Thruway Muffler is going to build a new exhaust for us
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#5
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Hi Joel
Curious about steering not fitting..... what were the differences..... is the steering box different of the whole steering tube different..... your 42 should have a rubber steering wheel and the 44 the wooden steering wheel.... I was under the impression that they were interchangeable....? The flywheel..... your 42 has a 216 engine..... why would the donor flywheel not fit...... is the donor engine a 235...? ***** can you show us a picture of the engine on the 44 CMP..... particularly the valve cover and the distributor side....? **** One thing to remember is if you do switch flywheel the teeth count/size must match the gear on the starter...... on the 216 you must use the original 216 6 volts starter which matches the broken flywheel ring gear.... on the donor if it is a different size engine ....... it may have a 12 volt starter and different gear size that must match that flywheel.... they have to be transplanted as a set..... I was under the impression that a flywheel could be moved for different size Chev 6.....216 to 235 or 261 and vice versa as long as you had a matching starter. Save that radiator / bumper guard..... even if it has welding on it.... it can be fixed. On the lifting flanges..... you are correct you would need to switch the whole hub/drum assembly...... but you do not really need the lift rings on a 42 Chev. You have a very healthy fan blade on the engine of your 42.....more blades than the usual 4 found on typical CMP. Keep trucking//// the kids are doing great. Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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#6
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The diameter of the the steering column was different so the column would not fit into the steering box.
The engine did look different in the 44 CMP compared to the 42 CMP and so does the transmission or at least the casing for the transmission |
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#7
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joel= slight delay for hatch.. found a big box that fits,
BUT someone crashed into my van while it was parked and the insurance is going to write it off...and give me peanuts for its as it has over 300K km.. looks like Chris V may beat my mileage ;-( the thing about accidents is, even when 100% not your fault, it still ends up costing you quite a bit in... gas, time, stress, and money. Am now driving a somewhat wrinkled, one-eyed, out of alignment van (but not very far) and am looking for a replacement. I will try to get bus quote on Saturday for you for pickup at Port bus terminal-
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I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips, Straining upon the start. The game's afoot! |
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