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#1
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The chassis is finally in it's new home. Under cover for the first time in over 15 years. This is the day I have been waiting for 8 months to see.
I was going to use a particular tilt-tray hire company, costing me $385.00 for a journey of approx 250km. Considering I had quotes for up to $900.00, that's quite reasonable, I think. They were to do the job tomorrow, BUT another company I had enquired of phoned me this morning and said they could retrieve the truck for me today, and I gave them the go-ahead. The cost was $350.00 only. Let me tell you, it's not often that things fall into place to my financial advantage. The money wasn't an issue, as I have enough $$$ to last the rest of my life......provided i'm dead by Monday lunchtime! I met a very nice gentleman at Hervey Bay yesterday, who specialises in WWII vehicle parts. I wasn't expected, and just dropped in on way back from somewhere else. Despite lack of notice, he was very gracious and showed me some of his stock. My god, what an inventory he has. In one location, while looking for windscreen frames, he walked past a number of tyres standing in a row. Amongst other sizes, he had five 11.00 x 20" and they were for sale at $250.00 each. These are exactly what I need, and I have since phoned him to say I will arrive tomorrow and take all five. They are not brand new but not very far from it! I have named the Blitz "P.O.B", which is for "Poor Old B@#$@%D". P7070010.jpg P7070022.jpg P7070011.jpg P7070015.jpg See anything wrong with this wheel? P7070012.jpg Just one example of bodging, I will need to undo. I couldn't resist trying the wheel nuts (not split rim ones), and only two wouldn't turn with simple knock to unstick. They are holding fast, despite heating with the gas. A good lick of diesel over coming days, and further gas should do the trick. Wonder what a breaker bar is worth!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#2
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Tony read this before you fire up the gas axe.
http://www.mirmgate.com/index.php?pa...&tyregateId=44 Graeme |
#3
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Graeme,
Have just read the link you provided. Thanks. I'm not sure about some of the terminology they used, but I undertsand that 'Pyrolysis' is bad, as is using flammable sealant. My piddly little butane torch wouldn't even get a color change to the nut when I tried it earlier. I would much rather use a good breaker or geared nut wrench. That was even before your posting, and more inclined to after seeing it. I am always nervous using gas torch, circular saw, etc. I saw my father lose the top of a finger from a moments lapse in concentration while using an electric planer. With his usual sense of humor (after a paragraph of expletives) he told me if I could find the finger piece, I could keep the 'tip'! True story. Do you think I could use a nut splitter? I have been wanting to try using one just to see how good they are.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#4
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Pyrolysis is covered also in a U tube video clip under a title something like "wheels of fire", maybe Bridgestone. Every person that ever gets involved in these sort of projects should be aware. Pyrolysis is a sneaky but real killer.
There doesn't have to be a fire inside the tyre, it is just a reaction of heat and pressure. there is no visible evidence of it happening prior to the explosion. Tony, new sheds look great dont they. They're only like it once. Clean walls, No sh*t hanging every where.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#5
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Tyres bought
P7080023.jpg P7080024.jpg Wheels blasted & etch primed P7080027.jpg Lower engine hatch blasted & repaired P7080028.jpg Grille blasted, following previous reworking of mesh. P7080029.jpg
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#6
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Spent 60min masking my trailer, ready to paint insides of wheel halves.
P7240042.jpg Wanted to do the insides first to test paint spraying technique and finish. Learnt many years ago, you always do the bits you don't see first when spraying in 'unfamiliar' territory. P7240043.jpg Lovelly shiny finish isn't it? Pity it's bloody well meant to be almost flat finish!!! P7240044.jpg I have had the same problem that Lloyd McCarthy had encountered with his Cab 12, Gun Tractor. Being that the flattening base for mixing with gloss paint does not provide much flattening when used at specified strength of 5%. Before I attempt the outside of the wheels, I will ring Lloyd for his final strength of base. His truck looked sooo good, and has the precise look I want. Lloyd is a perfectionist. Fellow MLU'er, Andy Cusworth dropped by this afternoon, while in the area for a local historical Steam Rally. He helped me to get the final two wheel nuts loose and the wheels will be coming off in near future while axles are worked on. Rear first. I never had any hope of removing the stuck nuts before today, because only last night did I consider the possibility of studs being replaced with wrong thread direction. I checked today......and yep......thats whats been done, so I'm very glad I didn't force the issue and wind up with busted threads. If I end up using this rear axle (I have another, good one) I will write to Dirk at LWD and have him send replacements. I couldn't resist threading the 'danger' nuts on, just to admire the two colors together! P7240047.jpg Has anyone realised what color the green I chose is? The answer is in one of the photos ;-)
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 24-07-11 at 10:44. Reason: stuffed up! |
#7
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Tony,
I have to say your work is second to none, the parts you have done look great mate ! and no i can't find the bloody paint name anywhere ![]() or is it called Shed Green ???? ![]() |
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