Removing a bogie from the axle...

[Ben]

Hi

One of mine was stuck solid, I suspect similar to yours by the look of things. I found the best way was to make a small "bath" from a plastic bottle, i siliconed it to the end of the shaft and left a commercial rust remover in the bath to soak into the rust. you know when it starts to work as the level of liquid begins to drop!!!.

Mine was still attached to the hull so i could jack up one side and leave the weight of the hull on one wheel as the rust dissolved this allowed the boogie to rotate on the shaft. It did take some effort once it was moving to get it off but once it starts to rotate it only gets easier!!

It took a few days to soak in enough to move but i tried pullers and heat, hammers, jacks, you name it....... in the end the leave it and wait solution worked best!!! no damage to either part and the axle was good inside where the grease had been. It's only the small section at the ends that rusts. like Lynn says, the middle section is a brass bush.

Good luck

Ben

[eddy8men]

all good advice already given, if it were me i'd file the rust off the end of the shaft and fill the thing with oil then walk away and let it soak. when you've got bored of waiting go back with a sledge and get the bogie to rotate around the axle by knocking it back and forth, once it starts to move it won't take long.
this is of course the brute force way of doing things and i'm sure there's others more elegant ways but i've always thought that "if in doubt give it a clout"

good luck with your endeavours.

rick

[ajmac]

All good advice, thanks.
You wouldn't believe the hardship in removing parts when a vehicle has been on a firing range. A component will look fine, untouched, then in some out of the way place there is a small schrapnal mark that makes disasembly a nightmare. The bogie retaining collar looked fine, but on close inspection there was an impact that went right through to the shaft welding the whole thing together! Now I know there is a brass bush inside I have a warmer feeling about it all

The bogie is original and Loyds had the same part number as UCs, interestingly post war the Belgians must have used up old Windsor stock and the track and two wheels on each side are Windsor items! In the photo the right hand wheel is Windsor with the wider rim and push on tyre.

[Lynn Eades]

There are two bronze bushes, 1 inner and 1outer, with a gap in between for grease. they push into the bore from each side. there is a shoulder on the end of the bushes to locare them. Thanks for the heads up on the parts compatability. It leaves me wondering what the set of springs I have are for. They are longer than UC springs, but are wound from a smaller dia. wire. Maybe a different model, or earlier Loyd.
On that note, can you post a picture from your parts book of the fan extention, generator etc.

[ajmac]

The parts book is incorrect in terms of the specific images used for the fan drive (shows UC), however the engine images are correct. It shows UC parts, but the engine is from a 7V and uses all the normal truck parts, however the fan is a special. Attached is an original wartime photo of a Loyd engine, you can see it is the same as the 7V 'Instruction Manual' picture that I scanned in. The dual pully and fan bolt directly onto the Dynamo shaft.

Perhaps people can ID the springs used: Inner = TL1386, Outer = TL332

Interestingly on the same page of the parts book it lists the road wheels, five different types! All part No: TL1572A, listed under this as drawing refs is: TL94 (obsolescent), TL14702/1, TL14702/2, TL14722/1 & TL14722/2, presumably if we could find these drawings one of them would be the wheel with the round holes....
Return rollers: TL986SA or TL860SA with various wheel options on drawings: TL14061, TL14752, TL14762/1 & TL14762/2

[Dave Schindel]

I got mine apart using the method Rob Love used.Remove the grease fitting and any bolts/collars etc. that are visible.Soak with a GOOD penetrating fluid while spreading the clamping parts with a chisel or screwdriver.May take a few days but is better than damaging good parts.

[RichardT10829]

i got mine off by utilising the grease nipple method except i used a high psi grease pump and literally forced the grease in until it came out of either end, then with the hull jacked up rocked the bogey assembly until it began to move..... if you can get the front steel collar out you have pretty much cracked it as it is this i found that rusts onto the stub.

obviously it is a million times easier to do this job when the tube is in the hull.... you dont have this luxury... i would adopt Kevins approach and let the weight of the bogey do the work for you, if you are short of Pen oil i would fill it with diesel or AT fluid both have fantastic penetrating propertys