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#1
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One thing I've learned in painting flat OD is to use a base coat over the primer that is full gloss with hardener, then paint the top coat with with the flattener reason being the flattener is basically like (or is) chalk which will let some moisture enter the paint and get down to the primer and then to the metal. Putting down a full gloss coat provides a good moisture barrier.
From playing around in the past I learned that about 20% flattener matches the original flatness pretty well particularly if you spray the top coat on the dry side, another reason for a good gloss coat as the first coat. For those of us who don’t paint all the time another tip is practice, paint all the non critical stuff first like the underside of the body or the floor of the cargo bead, get your technique down than tackle the stuff that every one will see. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
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#2
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Thanks for the info on flat base. Your statements regarding gloss coats prior to use of base is absolutely spot on! Flat base & primer itself (acrylic worst of all) are suscepatible to moisture. I have only used flat base for trim or dash components in the past, and that was way back in the past.
I emailed Protec head office last night, and presently awaiting reply regarding having them supply paint mixed with base in it. As I posted earlier, the local paint shop were the ones who advised on initial base mixing ratio, and with that in mind they seem to be unfamiliar with the product. Should know more tonight. T
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 26-07-11 at 23:50. Reason: made a spelink mistook |
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