Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

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Al the rear axle parts are now painted. Weather threatened to rain but I got away with it . Paint will be allowed to dry for a week before I attempt reassembly. Trust me, the temperature the workshop gets up to will bake it well in next 7 days. Local carpet shop/s will be getting a visit from me next week, cap in hand, for something soft to lay the various parts onto for fitting together.

In one of the above photos you can see two lengths of pipe up against the wall. The bargain bin of local steel shop is a great place to find handy off-cuts, and these two sizes are perfect match for two main sizes of seals etc. These pipes will form part of the bearing installation tool (once cut to lengths required). All of the tool will be metal but shouldn't present a problem because there will be no impact transferred to the cups or seals. A threaded rod will slowly wind the seals & cups into place. At least thats the way Ford did it with their tool. The larger diameter pipe will also be used to make curved cradles with which to jack the whole thing once finished. Remainder of that tube would make a nice machine tool stand too!

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I need to get this off the trailer tomorrow, because nose panel welding is finished and I can pick it up next weekend. For now, the engine/gearbox (yes, there IS a gearbox under all that dried oil & dirt) will be resting outside the workshop, until I get to attach some stub axles on and make it more mobile.

Now I must go and put further effort into removing the slight green tinge that arms/legs and face (around mask) currently have. You see, I had misplaced my disposable overalls!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

After your comment on counterfeit bearings, I check the packages of all the "Timken" Bearings I've bought in the last year. All of them purchased from a major bearing supplier and noticed that the boxes all had a holographic seal on them I suspect as an authentication measure, pushes the counterfeiters up a notch.

As to the best bearing install tools it is just like tools for installing seals the better the tool the less chance you will screw up a part or worse housing. I have a stock of furniture grade oak blocks all 1" thick and various lengths between 2" and 12" by 2"wide (I was given to large sacks as firewood much to good for that) but they are very handy for making pusher and support blocks to use in the bearing press.

I would like to pass along one old timer's trick. He saves the old bearing after he has removed it, pushes the inter hub out and chucks the outer race in the lath and grinds a fraction off the OD in this way he gets a good pushing tool to use in the bearing press. As he has a number CCKWs and Chevys he now has pretty good collection already made up.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Re: You friends method of using old bearings. THAT'S BLOODY CLEVER. Wish I had thought of it! I don't have a lathe of any sort so I suppose it's a moot point anyway.
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I whiled away the hours this morning, working on my version of bearing installer (well.....Ford's really).
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Two sizes have been made. That will cover diff bearing cup, output shaft seal and inner hub bearing cup. I have not yet had the parts welded together, but will have someone do this during the week, all going well (which it rarely does!).
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The 'T' handle will ultimately have a nut welded to bottom of the shaft, and the turning of handle draws the bearing/seal towards it....slowly. An hydraulic press would be much easier, but not cheaper. I do have one on my wish list for next years budget.
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Through good fortune, the large size pipe is just a 'bees dick' smaller than the bearing cup & grease seal, and it even fits the grease seal lip on the inside of the pipe too. The smaller size is not as perfect a fit but should be no problems.

[hrpearce]

Looks good Tony. I made a tempory hydraulic press using a 20 ton hydraulic jack a short chain and a couple of lengths of 4X2 hardwood and used 3/4 drive sockets as chasers. Unfortunatly no pictures as I didn't think it important at the time.

[Private_collector]

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The engine I got last weekend is now sitting outside the workshop, as opposed to filling the trailer! I have no intention to start work on the engine for now, but couldn't resist taking the heads off for a little peek inside. Couldn't stand not knowing what lay beneath the surface. Looks quite good doesn't it? It didn't before I did a bit of wiping with petrol.
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Would I be correct in believing that this had never been rebuilt before?
I ask because of the "Ford" script piston tops which are also stamped "STD". Don't worry about the scratches I left on piston, there is slight pitting to the bore so these pistons will be removed and replaced once cylinders are honed.
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The intake manifold and heads were all easy to get off. No broken studs, and while heads and intake are OK to reuse, I have another intake and carburetor I have been rebuilding over the past few months. Mostly at night.............on the lounge room floor! I hope it is compatable with this engine!!!!!
My wife wants me to ask "does anybody else clean or wet sand parts in the shower?" We have our own water supply so don't worry about wasted water!


One thing did concern me. Upon removal of the intake manifold, I found small amount of water in some of the valve chambers. I had not been expecting this, but have been informed it is not a great problem as engine is to be completely rebuilt anyway. The water was removed and replaced with a spray of WD40. I did same to cylinder walls. Why is there a little 'divit' in middle of the pistons?

Try though I might, I couldn't seem to remove the valve assembly retainers, so I retire shortly to read my "Restoring Flathead V8's" book to see what I have been doing incorrectly. I do have the original Ford tool for relieving the valve spring and that's not the issue. The problem lies with being unable to budge the retainers. Suspect that may involve another tool!

[Private_collector]

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After a full days work, the rear end is back together and finished with exception of new brake lines and brushing damaged paint on wheel nuts, brake line bracket & tailshaft attachment. Brake flaring tools won't arrive until late next weekend so that will not be done for next 2 weeks, so I can practice a few flarings prior. I bought new brake line and brake line nuts, but the nuts are longer than the originals and i'm not sure if I will use them. No luck with replacements yet, but I haven't run out of sources to check either.

Not sure which of two paths I will take next. Plan to do either the front axle/diff or pull the truck out of the shed and strip down the chassis, to start on that. It would be nice to have something to put bigger bits back onto rather than slowly filling the workshop floor space.

Nose panel has been returned from engineering works, and welding repairs are very good. They have left repaired areas with excess weld above desired level but this is how I wanted it to be. Any grinding/filing I want to do myself.

[Mike K]

The split valve guides can be a pain to get out . I had a aftermarket tool that Ryans used to sell ( remember Ryans in the city , Melb., with the overhead cable payment system, a employee sat in a little cubicle in the roof and the cash was sent up by a overhead cable system, the change returned the same way).

You inserted the specially shaped tool down around the valve head ..onto the guide and hit the guide downwards ( after removing the C clip ) . The tool is made from round bar with the end grooved to fit around the valve head ,it's a odd shape..like a C shape at one end , its curls upwards. Don't know if you can still buy them . The bar is awkward to use. MIKE

[Howard]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

...You inserted the specially shaped tool down around the valve head ..onto the guide and hit the guide downwards ( after removing the C clip ) . The tool is made from round bar with the end grooved to fit around the valve head ,it's a odd shape..like a C shape at one end , its curls upwards. Don't know if you can still buy them . The bar is awkward to use. MIKE

I have one of those tools, and have seen them in the Mac's catalogue. I am not home at the moment when I am I'll look up the part number.
H