Shock links

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by jason meade

Also is this the correct location..for the throttle linkage ?

The throttle linkage is in backwards , the long bent flat runs between the other pedals.

[motto (RIP)]

The shock links shown in the photo's appear to use similar ball ends to other late war trucks such as GMC CCKW and Studebaker US6. I have a good quantity of NOS links for the Stude and have been using the ball ends for Dodge WC among others.

There is no need to cut and shut if the rod and eye ends are ok, just press the ball ends out and press in new or serviceable ones robbed out of the Stude links or what have you. This also holds true if you have a link with the ends facing the wrong way, just press one out and put it in the other way round.

Within the last two weeks I supplied a couple of Stude links to a friend for use on his '48 Ford pick-up.

You will find that the pin on the ball has a taper on it and can be a bit difficult to dismantle from the attach point. I find that after loosening or removing the nut, if you can hold a sledge hammer or heavy steel object against one side of the attach lug and hit the side opposite with a hammer (NOT the pin) after a few whacks they will usually separate.

David

[jason meade]

Bob, The little 90 degree connector that you mentioned is really the problem with the links on the front axle, there is a ton of movement 1/8 side to side movement, where the 90 degree connector goes through the cast bracket on the axle and is bolted with a 5/8 bolt...is there a rubber shim in there or was that metal to metal, if it was metal o metal them the hole has alonganated (sp)itself on both sides.
There is a taper on the pins at least for the rear links, the front I am not sure as of yet.

I may have taken on more than i can handle with this project...lol I was board of building jeeps as that was too easy...lol
I am in need of a ton of little things,with the hardest forme being seat frames and a carb....and now mabey links... ohwll it will all come out in the wash.
Thanks everone for you ideas and help.
Jason

[Grant Bowker]

The 90 degree connector is attached to the axle with a stud that is integral with the 90 degree part. Be careful undoing it to preserve the 90 plus stud. Scrap the nut (either flame or grinder) if it doesn't turn easily. I have seen the 90 connectors both with and without thick washers and thin rubbers. The total thickness is limited by the stud length. If you can't get the 90 to snug down and sit still on the axle at a reasonable torque consider making a stepped washer to bush the hole in the axle casting (or even a small sleeve to fit between the stud and the axle to hold things still).
The studs on your links will be tapered.

Carb, if you are working a 216 the Carter W-1 is available rebuilt aftermarket or eBay to rebuild. If you have a later 235 or 261, they probably came from the factory with a Rochester B that was supplied in several base sizes and venturi diameters also different air cleaner attachments. Try to get the right style rather than adapting. Another option is a brand new Zenith 228, not cheap but 100% new. This is very similar to the carb used on the C60X. http://www.zenithfuelsystems.com/downdraft_228.htm

Seats and mountings, just keep your eyes open. If you find a seat that is solid but without the springs in the back, grab it. You can buy extension springs of correct wire diameter and OD as 30" lengths that you can cut and bend your own ends onto to replace the seatback springs.

Bob maintains that it is impossible to restore a truck without having another to study and rob parts from. It is often cheaper to buy a complete truck that has quite a few parts that you need than to try to find and buy the parts separately. You will also then have either a source for future parts needs or trading material to get things you need from others.

[jason meade]

Grant thanks for the information, I would love to find another truck in the area but alas there is not much as i am a bit late in picking up this stuff as its been well picked in the area and with the price or steel over the years well you get the picture, but there are a few around.
I have found a HUP in the area for 1000.00 but alot of differences also for the small about of items needed.

Jason

[motto (RIP)]

I'm pretty sure you will find that the offset 90 degree connector is not peculiar to this vehicle either. I know for sure that I've seen them used elsewhere most likely one of the models of CCKW. I've probably got some in amongst my stuff.

David

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jason

Don't get discouraged ...... all the little bits are out there.... you just need to connect the dots......

Going back to your earlier email.... yes your bolt holes may have been worn out to a larger size..... you can fabricate bushings or weld extra metal and drill.

Being creative and imaginative is a requirement in this insane world of CMP restoration.

I will be taking some pictures of the various linkages we have here at the barn over the Xmas Holidays and post on MLU.

Seat frames do come up occasionally..... keep your eyes wide open for them.
....and I can't believe that all CMP related thingies have been picked clean in your area....... you have to sneak around, ask, network..... they are there and in most cases wasting away in someone's back field. Recent posting by Richard in the Huntsville area has turned up some real good CMP finds. I believe Quebec is still full of them in back road and in lumber areas....all waiting to be found. Out in Western Canada.... there are still treasure trove of parts.... yes they are miles apart as it is a big country but they do exist waiting to be picked up.

Take your time...don't give up...... keep plugging at it and stay on the forum.

Will get back to you.

Bob