Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

The cab floor & framework has no rust holes, but all the flat head screws are rusted solid. No doubt trying to remove them without breaking would get me in more trouble than Flash Gordon, so I will grind or chisel caged nuts from underside of floor frame. Some of the diamond pattern floor is starting to lose definition of the pattern from corrosion. I am giving serious thought to having new floor plates manufactured, unless I locate a new set of originals. Is this pattern of steel still available????? I have access to a new rear floor plate, but it is the checker pattern. May have to change all to checker pattern, and i'm ready for that if required.
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While out in the sunshine, I thought it was time to try removing the steering wheel nut. A spanner was quite out of the question, but a cold chisel wasn't! It came off without damaging the thread further. With the steering wheel now off, I attempted to remove the outer tube of steering column. Imagine the lovely surprise I got when I had removed the clamp at column base, to be met with a flood of virtually black, watery, oily mud. 15 minutes to clean up! The outer column tube wouldn't come off anyway, because it hit on the keyway where steering wheel locks into. I suppose that means it has to come off after steering box is disassembled!
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I gave the chassis a good high pressure water blast to remove a lot of the grime from 70 years, replaced steering wheel and then shunted it back into the workshop.
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You may notice I welded a pair of supports onto the engine trolly yesterday as well. I was concerned that over time the box section where front mounts bolt onto might bend. Because it will be sent with engine to any outsourced services required, it will get bounced around on my trailer during the trip. Anyone who knows the Bruce Highway in QLD would know it can remove teeth fillings in some parts, it is that uneven in surface.