Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

The cab floor & framework has no rust holes, but all the flat head screws are rusted solid. No doubt trying to remove them without breaking would get me in more trouble than Flash Gordon, so I will grind or chisel caged nuts from underside of floor frame. Some of the diamond pattern floor is starting to lose definition of the pattern from corrosion. I am giving serious thought to having new floor plates manufactured, unless I locate a new set of originals. Is this pattern of steel still available????? I have access to a new rear floor plate, but it is the checker pattern. May have to change all to checker pattern, and i'm ready for that if required.
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While out in the sunshine, I thought it was time to try removing the steering wheel nut. A spanner was quite out of the question, but a cold chisel wasn't! It came off without damaging the thread further. With the steering wheel now off, I attempted to remove the outer tube of steering column. Imagine the lovely surprise I got when I had removed the clamp at column base, to be met with a flood of virtually black, watery, oily mud. 15 minutes to clean up! The outer column tube wouldn't come off anyway, because it hit on the keyway where steering wheel locks into. I suppose that means it has to come off after steering box is disassembled!
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I gave the chassis a good high pressure water blast to remove a lot of the grime from 70 years, replaced steering wheel and then shunted it back into the workshop.
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You may notice I welded a pair of supports onto the engine trolly yesterday as well. I was concerned that over time the box section where front mounts bolt onto might bend. Because it will be sent with engine to any outsourced services required, it will get bounced around on my trailer during the trip. Anyone who knows the Bruce Highway in QLD would know it can remove teeth fillings in some parts, it is that uneven in surface.

[Private_collector]

Today I received a set of Ford rear hub inner seals from USA, made by Felpro.
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They are NOS. The leather is firm but not unusable.
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I'll just do as the instruction says, and they will be fine. In all honesty, I didn't really need these at this point in time, but saw them on ebay & struck while the proverbial was hot. They cost $21.15 AUD for the pair. Shipping was not expensive at all.
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The purchase was basically a 'fishing trip' to get a close look at them as an alternative to other brand types & seal numbers which are previously known. By having a close look at the first photo, you can clearly see what other makes of vehicles they are compatable with. I notice they are described as "Rear Outer Retainer" which is curious, because I know them (and used identical ones) on rear inner wheel hub!
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Hows this for a box!!!! Isn't the corner strengthening brilliant?
Tell me ONE place where this still occurs!!!!
Ah, the nostalgia.

I will add these to the archives of "Modern Part Nos for CMPs" on this site, though they are not really applicable but may assist someone.

[Private_collector]

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Over several hours, yesterday and today, I removed the cab floor plates for better access to what lies beneath. Thought it would take ages with a grinder, to remove all the weld nuts. I was wrong. It took ages with a cold chisel instead. I couldn't bring myself to use a grinder in case I slipped and marred something irrepairably.
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All in all, the cab frame is very good. Worst corrosion is on mates side wheel arch inner, where the mud would have sit & festered! It is pitted but does not go right through. I know this because I ran over it (and the floor plates) with a descaler & then the twisted wire cup.
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This is the typical state of floor plates, but mates side front piece is worse than other side. I had initially reached a decision to replace all the floor plates due to the degree of pitting (no rust through, just ugly appearance). Now i'm having second thoughts. It still looks sort of ugly, but it IS original, and it DOES add a vintage patina (spelling ???). I'll sleep on it. Will go ahead and take patterns from all three pieces for puropses of manufacturing repros in future.
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Can someone please tell me if the irregular shaped hole, second from the right, is original or a bodge job in later life. It does have bolt holes tapped in the floor plate but it doesn't look as 'neat' as the work on the other holes. It doesn't have any support plates or other things underneath it either.

[Keith Webb]

I've done this job several times and have been surprised how many of the countersunk screws actually come out OK with a bit of heat and an impact driver to get them started.

What's the extra hole in the floor? Looks like someone added their own front axle declutch lever.

[Private_collector]

Thanks Keith!

Thats all I need to know. I'll get the engineering works to fill it in again when I take it for sandblasting next Saturday. Thats assuming I have got a 'donor' piece of metal by then. I have an acquaintence with a few Ford CMPs and a good oxy torch.

I didn't give a moments thought to saving the floor plate screws. Some were damaged, some were fine and some were already missing. There is a fasteners supplier in Gympie where I can buy new ones. I bought samples Saturday.

The getting of new weld nuts seems to be quite a trick though!

I'm awaiting return emails from 2x manufacturers with prices.

[Keith Webb]

Some of those caged nuts are tricky to access.

It may indeed be better to find another rear floor without the butchery.

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Thanks Keith!

Thats all I need to know. I'll get the engineering works to fill it in again when I take it for sandblasting next Saturday. Thats assuming I have got a 'donor' piece of metal by then. I have an acquaintence with a few Ford CMPs and a good oxy torch.

I didn't give a moments thought to saving the floor plate screws. Some were damaged, some were fine and some were already missing. There is a fasteners supplier in Gympie where I can buy new ones. I bought samples Saturday.

The getting of new weld nuts seems to be quite a trick though!

I'm awaiting return emails from 2x manufacturers with prices.

[Private_collector]

I know a couple of fellows with Fords, but most of the floor panels are as poor or worse than mine. Some are checkerplate, not diamond pattern, too.

I have a mate about 1hr away who might have one. The catch is that I would have to remove it from a cab still attached to the truck, which in turn is in an overgrown paddock and sinking into the mire.

From an illness a number of years ago, I have difficulty working with my hands above my head. I can do it, but get VERY fatigued, fast. The discovery of a good rear floor substitute may overide this caution, but if the bolts are too ackward to get at, I will end up crook for hours.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

This is the typical state of floor plates, but mates side front piece is worse than other side. I had initially reached a decision to replace all the floor plates due to the degree of pitting (no rust through, just ugly appearance). Now i'm having second thoughts. It still looks sort of ugly, but it IS original, and it DOES add a vintage patina (spelling ???). I'll sleep on it. Will go ahead and take patterns from all three pieces for puropses of manufacturing repros in future.

Keep the original metal! If you replace a floor plate as good as this one, the truck will loose much of the details which tells its true age.

And keep up the good work!

Hanno

[Private_collector]

Thanks Hanno,

I think you are absolutely right about the originality!

If I could find perfect plates from another truck, it would have been just too tempting and I would have used them instead, BUT if I don't look I can't find, so won't be trying.

Would really like everything to be perfect, but some things should deliberatey be left alone. Think this is one of those occasions. Besides, most of the deep pitting is located where the seat bases go and may even be fairly well hidden....ish.

I have ordered 4 solid wheel castors to put on a simple frame which will sit under the cab base and allow me to work on reattaching the floor plates, rear cab panel (not yet blasted), cab nose accelerator panel etc... With that, I can push the thing around & work where it suits me. Plan is to use steel box section in a way that will allow me to slide an additional tube through the frame, and this will be used to hoist the entire assembly onto chassis when it is ready for the cab. This may take a couple of weeks to complete but I want to have it done before I put the floor plates back onto the cab, because it is just too heavy to manipulate easily afterwards.

Wet weather is now setting in, and if I want to get the transfer case out, I had better strike now. Have to go into town for a large spanner to undo the big t/fer case bolts!

[Private_collector]

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The final piece arrived this afternoon, allowing me to finally finish a set of instruments.
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A good friend of mine swapped a spare set of pedals I had for some more instrument panels & two dashboards. One of the dashs still had the F15A data plates attached.

Unfortunately, both of the 'new' dashs (and one I already had) all have switch plates which have been....er.....modified where brake light isolation should be, on large plate, and some form of damage to small plate.

If anyone has a good set (or individual) Ford dashboard switch plates for sale, please get in touch with me.

I am hoping to purchase a quantity of ORIGINAL NOS Ford CMP dash switches, including the dual position fuel tank sender switches. The seller is not sure if he wants to part with them, but is considering!

Cab frame and floor plates are still with the sandblasters, and at time of my visit this afternoon, were still as I had left them! Am planning to discuss with the business owner, the possibility of him allowing me to do my own sandblasting on Saturdays. That way he won't be losing working time for his employee and I will get things done faster. Also I would know I could take my time but do a thorough job. It's hard for his guy to spend time+ on my stuff when it brings in VERY little revenue compared with their 'real' jobs.

[Private_collector]

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Removed these plates from the dashboard I am working on / painting tomorrow. The damage to bottom switch hole is a common theme across the few of these plates I have. I assume they are solid brass.

Vandalism, sheer vandalism!

I think the stamped ones look better than the printed or etched plates. I sanded them clean of layers of diffferent color camo green, one over the other. The sanding was really as test to see if I could spray whole thing, then lightly sand the high areas to reveal the brass for raised parts & leave black for the low spots. It works, but looks REALLY dodgy.

Were these originally just painted the vehicle color, or lettering highlighted?

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Private_collector;158706[ATTACH

46227[/ATTACH]
Can someone please tell me if the irregular shaped hole, second from the right, is original or a bodge job in later life. It does have bolt holes tapped in the floor plate but it doesn't look as 'neat' as the work on the other holes. It doesn't have any support plates or other things underneath it either.

Tony did you find a patch for the hole. If not a trip to a tractor wreckers might help. The foot plates on old Fiats and pedals on Zetors have the same patern.

[Private_collector]

Robert,

Thanks for that!

I hadn't found a suitable piece for floor plate yet, so you information was very much welcomed.

[Private_collector]

Still waiting on a decision from a friend, regarding correct CMP dash switches. In the meantime, and working on worst case scenario, and I have ordered modern toggle switches from local supplier. Simple 'bat' handle ones. They will do until correct ones are obtained. I went to the local Dick Smith electronics store, and after I searched the store I was told they don't "do electronics parts" any more. Whats happening to the world when DS Elecs stop selling resistors, diodes, switches and a whole heap of other stuff I don't know how to spell? Come back Dick, all's forgiven!!!

Anyhow.....the Ford F15 parts manual arrived yesterday. Bloody good read though it smells like once owned by a chain-smoker. Small price to pay.

A new starter switch was ordered and arrived earlier in the week. It is a much thinner construction and ever so slightly larger in the body in comparisn to the original. I'm not too impressed with the feel of button when pushed either, so it won't be used. I'll keep looking for a NOS one.

A keyed ignition switch has been ordered from USA. It's sole purpose is to allow power to be switched on/off, to give piece of mind and greater security.
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On Sunday I made this wheeled (castored) frame to put the cab base on. The blasting has been on hold while we were experiencing the recent wet weather. Cab base and floor panels should be ready for me this Saturday. I hope to get it under paint on Sunday, all going well. Will need to do some bumping to both wheel arches first, to level several very small dents made from the inside. Possibly ill treatment from some farmer in last 50+ years, but I prefer to think they are caused by the hob nails & steel plates from a soldiers boot!

The cab 'dolly' will have two rails placed on the little cradles at top of the uprights. Cab base will sit on these rails while I work on it & assemble cab back, doors, dash, windscreen frame and nose panel, etc... When ready, it will be hoisted onto chassis as one piece, using the rails as lifting points.

I have had some success with refining a method of having dash switch plates which are both truck color and have black highlight detail in the appropriate areas. It's lucky I have a second 'bad' large plate to play with and get this right. This is still a work in progress. The photo shows a trial of primer with black over. Primer being the substitute 'green' color, of course. I wanted to see what the black areas would look like if surrounds sanded, and also how the whole thing would look if I wanted to sand right back to brass with just the black detail. It's not a pretty picture, but is only for experimentation purposes. Will be stripped with thinners & done again in the true method.

[Private_collector]

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This afternoon, I took some time to remove old paint & rust scale from the cab rear panel. Prior to stripping, I could feel many wavy areas and feared what I may find once surface cleaned. The majority of the 'wibbles' were actually the spot welds, therefore not as bad overall as I expected. The trolley for cab base has come in handy as a good support with great accessability to both sides, while dents are being beaten. I was hoping to have the cab floor on this trolley today, but I didn't get time to retrieve it from sandblaster on Saturday.
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These holes for the rifle holding bracket (upper) seem to be intentionally recessed. Are the bolts for these similar to floor bolts? The proximity to top of the panel suggests they may have been recessed so the roof panel would sit over them. Is this correct?
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This is the remains of the twisted wire cup I used to strip the paint. It was about 85% when I started. I broke the last few strands as I removed the final square inch of crap. I believe I got my moneys worth out of it! Have found these stripping wheels work exceptionally well, if a little scary to use.

P.S: The black color is etch primer. Once dents are repaired, it will go to sandblaster. I am hoping not to need filler on the repairs. Time will tell!